mikemunro Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 hi all is ok to put a 2.0 crank pully onto a rebult 2.5 thanks Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 I did, and had no issues in about 40k. As long as it has a rubber damper strip (I an certain all the 6 pot pulleys do) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemunro Posted September 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 that sounds promising, however Chris Witor seams to think differantly on the subject, i have 2 pullys with the only differance being the size of the belt part, one was off my gt6 and the other from a scrapy ? says 2.5 has a bigger V PART Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Who knows? These damper pulleys are all nearly 40 years old or more, and in the day they gave people like Kastner problems when the rubber gave way. 2.5's have a bigger pulley/damper, os I thin k we should assume there was a reason. The reason for the damper at all was to damp (!) out resonance in the long crankshaft. It would not surprise me, although I can't calculate it, that a long shaft with greater stroke would need more damping. The only way to find out is on a test bed engine, and measure the resonance - and I'm working on that. JOhn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemunro Posted September 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 ok cheers any more help would be apprecated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Mine was a 2.5S engine in my vitesse. The pulley on that had power steering pulley too, so I just bolted on a vitesse pulley instead. As said, no issues at all over many thousands of mine, and it was an everyday car too (as in literally everyday, and driven hard) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemunro Posted September 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 thanks clive looks like im going to stick with my gt6 one cheers mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahame walker Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 HI All, does anyone have any sugestions how I can undo the crank pully nut on my 1500 Spitfire? I have the correct size socket with 3/4 inch drive and with the car in 4th gear, foot brake on hard and a 5ft scafold pole extention on the tommy bar it wont move! All that happens is that it winds up the transmission. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Grahame Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 you can seriously over wind the transmission with scaffold poles and wreck the clutch disc,as the engine only produces 82lbft you can use a socket and bar up against the chassis and give the starter a quick crank, keep fingers out the way (do remove the coil feed you dont want it to start) i use a 1/2 drive battery impact wrench whizz them off in seconds Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 think from whats in parts books TR used same base pulley but 1/2" wide belt where most 2000/25000 used same base pulley but has a 3/8" wide belt all the data suggests you check belt width and order accordingly the correct width groove pulley the fitting , diameter and damping appears to be the same any other clues about ??? just make sure the damper ring is actually bonded to the inner , if it rotates it plays havoc with any timing settings (got that tee shirt some years back) pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 I've mentioned this before, but in this context no harm in a repeat. And it's straight from Kastner's books. If you KNOW that the outer rim has not moved on the rubber - TDC on the scale corresponds with TDC on No.1 piston - then drill a hole into the depth of the Vee, right down into the inner hub of the pulley. Check that you can drop a split pin, or a length of wire in. In future, checking is just dropping the pin again. If it won't go, the pulley is a no-no! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahame walker Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 Hi Pete Thanks for the prompt reply on removing the crank pulley nut. As I was going to take the engine out anyway, I removed the sump and wedged the crank, with the socket on the nut I just gave the tommy bar a couple of whacks with a club hammer and it soon came undone! Thanks again, Grahame Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 I know I've posted this before somewhere but after three days on a Spitfire 1500 crank pulley with a six feet breaker bar, all kinds of sockets, heat, penetrating oil, me standing on the bar and jumping up and down, I actually bent a huge screwdriver around the crank whilst jamming the engine through the petrol pump aperture, and so gave in and bought an impact wrench which removed the nut in 20 seconds or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 28, 2016 Report Share Posted October 28, 2016 This wont do a crank nut but.........I dont need another but in a Homebase sale last week our local was selling a own brand! Guild 3/8" drive 18v lithium batteried for £20 just should have bought all the stock and sold them on I just had to have just one more its a neat well balanced addition to ALL THE OTHERS !!!!! pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted October 28, 2016 Report Share Posted October 28, 2016 I bought a £20 drill from the Orange shop, as my Granddaughter calls it. Sainsburys to you and me. It lasted 2 months, I deduced the battery was the problem so opened it up. Inside were a dozen or so AA batteries all wired together. I'm told this is not uncommon but in this case there was no packing, the batteries were just loose, they rattled about and of course the solder joints broke. I re-soldered, packed them out and it worked, for another 2 months. This time the batteries wouldn't hold a charge, I considered replacing them with decent batteries but this would then put the price of the drill in the "Why didn't I buy a quality drill in the first place?" class. Beware cheap drills! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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