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Green stuff self-adhesive anti-rattle shim


Patrick Taylor
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I know many of you are Mintex people, but has anyone used the stick-on 3M pad that comes with Green Stuff pads? I assume it is used instead of the anti-rattle shims (which I retrieved from the depths of the wheelie bin this afternoon)?  But do I put a dob of copper grease on the back, same as usual? Or stay old school with shims'n'grease?

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This isn’t very helpful, but I have a box of these to use sometime fairly soon - and recently asked myself the same question.

The material is like a stick-on version of the stuff my missus gets from Lakeland to line the bottom of the oven.

There is nothing helpful in the instructions.

I am  considering using just the metal shims on the basis that you shouldn’t need both.

Never a great devotee of using much Copper-ease on the back,  but a trace on the edges.

 

 

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I was thinking the same -anti-squeal shims are as old as the hills and I know they work, so I'll stick with a known formula.

I've not worked on front brakes before, so will go easy on the copper grease. The old ones looked to have had a blob of the stuff on the back.

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Had green stuff pads in my Vitesse, when worn replaced them with some white box pads bought some years previously at an autojumble. Found green stuff quite dusty and the brakes were much better with the white box pads.

Regards

Paul

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Hi Folks,

 the 'Green stuff' stick on anti squeal pads work very well.

The last set of actual brake pads were rubbish and I now use Ferodo FDS167 (TR4A)  with no pad/shims/grease.

 

Roger

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stick on and other teflon sort of stuff used by a variety of padders i find takes a while to squeegee out and you get a poor pedal till all is bedded 

you dont get that with steel shims 

all new pads have to bed in especially M1144 types 

lubricant or antoi seize  can just attracts dust 

these days i would recommend      Mintex  Cera Tec paste  as the best these days

metal shims do give the piston /pad a lead in as they give relief to the leading edge

a full pad dosnt  

Pete

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Totally in agreement with Pete. I fitted green pads to my Dolomite and when coming to a halt they squeeeeeled terribly, people turned to look! Read up about it, saw Mintex Cera tec paste recommended, bought some and cleaned off the slight covering of Copper paste, applied as instructed and, low and behold, NO squeeeeeking at all ! At about 3 or 4 pound a tube, well worth it, enough in tube for at least 4 pad changes.  

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A lot of people do not like Green Stuff pads and rate them as near useless under hard usage.

I've been using them in my Mk3 Spitfire for years, and have done quite a few long distance events (10CR/HCR/Dutch Nachtrit) as well as plenty of night time 12 car rallies in the UK, and have never found them wanting. I don't used the anti-squeal plastic bits, and just put a light smear of copper grease on the back of the pads, and they don't squeal.  My car is fairly light, with GRP bonnet, hardtop and bootlid, but is otherwise just a normal Mk3, but it does get used to it's limit, especially on the night rallies and of course on European mountain passes. I've never had bad brake fade or burning, although they do get pretty hot on mountain descents. They do make everything attached to the wheels black but that's a small price to pay. The current set have been in there since the last 10CR (2019?) and are still good.

Or maybe I'm not trying hard enough :) 

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28 minutes ago, 68vitesse said:

as said white box pads I fitted markedly better than green stuff.

I found the same with my Vitesse (Mk1, no servo). The PO had fitted GreenStuff and my impression on test driving (and again after purchase) was that the brakes were next to useless and definitely in need of work. The calipers seemed OK - no sign of being stuck - so I swapped the pads for white box ones. Instant improvement.

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1 hour ago, 68vitesse said:

Have a servo fitted to my Vitesse and as said white box pads I fitted markedly better than green stuff.

It is a case of each to his own; I know people who fit Greenstuff and have no problems, but the only rattle my two sets made were off the bottom of the bin.

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mine went in the bin when a attack on a roundabout nearly ended up as a hairy  straight line 

easy to clean the wheels was the only nice

any idea of braking ( type 12s)  was a mistake 

reverted to Std  until upgrade to Type 16s and M1144   

Pete

 

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I suspect the only real reason to retro-fit a servo, is as an aid to old arthritic knees? (mine😁). The braking is the same either way and determined only by the CofF between pad and disk in relation to the surface area. Asbestos based brake pads where the yard stick to which "progress" (or not) is measured. I have yet to discover what mine are like as it arrived on a trailer with no motive power!. I am aware though that some of the "new" brake pad material can be problematical?. Having seen several postings hereto which seem to be inconclusive. It would be of interest to many I suspect to see a direct comparison under controlled conditions.?

Pete

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I had Green Stuff pads fitted many years ago, and found there was a significant improvement in the braking -which is why I have gone with them again. As Pete mentions, the fact that they leave less dirty residue is a plus, especially with OEW alloys! Less impressive is that on removing calipers and pads for this rebuild, one side had Green Stuff pads and the other had bog  standard black pads. I hadn't noticed the brakes being out of balance or pulling to one side, which you'd expect if GS were better than the standard material. Who changed the pads on one side only is a mystery: I have not (until now) touched the front brakes, but have had the car for 27 years, so sadly  whoever did it, got paid to do it :mad:.

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