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Headlamp removal GT6 mk3


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Thinking of fitting new Crystal Halogen headlamps as my sealed beams are badly tarnished and dim. Also need to remove them for planned respray. I’ve already rewired with a relay. Question, how do I remove them? No cowl to remove, just the body fairing surround that attaches to the bonnet. No fixings visible outside, and inside just the inner end of several screws. I assume the bodywork surround comes off to reveal the screw heads, but how? There are 2 small holes in each surround to access the small alignment adjuster screws, but don’t think these attach them as such.

Cheers

Dave

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3 (I think) small bolts which are inside the bonnet. 3/8 or 7/16AF from memory. Then you can see the headlight retaining screws.

The crystal lights, with relays and Osram Nightbreakers are FANTASTIC. I fitted them to my spitfire about 14 years ago, and it transformed the lights. I was doing a lot of 12car night rallies, and suddenly we did rather better. 

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16 minutes ago, clive said:

3 (I think) small bolts which are inside the bonnet.

I think one of them is under the corner panel below the fairing, rather then "inside" the bonnet. They're either 1/4" or 5/16" UNC from memory, so the heads should be 7/16" or 1/2". However, the threads in the fairings are prone to stripping, so if there's really no sign whatever of bolt heads then it's possible some DPO has glued them in place.

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Yes indeed; first thing to remove the cowl. But it's ever so easy for it to drop on the ground (and crack) it in the process so and second pair of hands is useful to catch it if necessary.

The cowl is held on by three fixings, two setscrews and one nut on a stud - all 1/4 UNF so that 7/16 spanner size.

Easy one first: With the bonnet fully up there will be a hex head on the underside of the light panel. Spanner or socket to get that off.

Secondly: Nut on a stud. Taking the left hand unit for example. The nut/stud is at the extreme lower and extreme left of the light panel. You have to reach in with fingers right the way forward to feel it. Not removable with spanner. Requires a 7/16 socket on a short extension to 'reach in' over the nut: Then work the ratchet in to connect with the extension. The nut may come off the stud or the stud may unscrew from the cowl but either is ok.

Thirdly: Really tricky. Bonnet up still. This one is located in the middle of the right hand side of the cowl (using left as the example). One has to reach in (like Twizzle) into the nose of the bonnet (extreme left and forward)  and then work backwards until one can feel the hex head of the screw on the vertical face of the light panel. Pretty much impossible to see so it's all by feel. Then it's a case of feeding on a socket on a short extension, then ratchet

On removing this third fastening the cowl is very likely to fall on the ground.

If the cowl hasn't been off in donkey's years there's a very good chance that one or both the setscrews will be seized and the thread in the cowl itself gets ripped in the unscrewing. There's pretty much nothing that can be done to avert this and it can end up requiring a machinist to repair with an insert nut, helicoil or similar process.

But by now there is access to the headlamp. If only replacing the bulb then remove ONLY the three self tappers in the chrome ring which retains the beam unit. There is no need to touch the two adjusters. Beam unit will then come out in one's hand for bulb replacement.

But if for stripping for respray the the headlamp bowl (black) needs to be removed.  In which case: Remove chrome ring and beam unit as above. Then twist the adjustment bowl (zinc plated) off the adjusters and reach in behind and lift the retaining spring of it's tab. Then remove the main bowl. Originally this was held in with three blind (POP) rivets which need to be drilled out. But mostly these will have been replaced by PO (or PPO, or PPPO etc) with 3 of whatever self tappers, blind nuts, or setscrews were handy.

Most import thing of all is not to drop the cowl on the ground!

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When I fitted osram night breakers and relays some 12 years ago. I fitted new plastic bowls but cut the domes so I could change the bulbs without going through the rigmarole of removing the cowling etc. After all you mainly need to change a bulb at night when you realise a bulb is blown. Never had any problems with damp as the rubber boots keep it dry. 

Danny

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Blimey, and I thought changing a bulb on the Yeti needed a contortionist, unlike our good old cars! Thanks guys, will get my nimble fingers working tomorrow. Sounds like this is one of the few jobs on our Meccano kit cars that is a bit fiddly. I remember the equivalent on my Morris 1000 many years ago being refurbing the brake master cylinder - inside a box section under the floor that needed the front torsion bar removing to access - on an otherwise simple car!

Cheers

Dave

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Clearform headlamps with Osram Nightbreakers or Silverlights are excellent.

My daughter's old Peugeot 107 practically needed the entire front removed for a headlamp bulb, but I also remember losing both skin and patience with a Freelander, only to find much later that if you pull a lever the entire headlamp just slides out.... :)

 

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1 hour ago, Dave the tram said:

Blimey, and I thought changing a bulb on the Yeti needed a contortionist, unlike our good old cars! Thanks guys, will get my nimble fingers working tomorrow. Sounds like this is one of the few jobs on our Meccano kit cars that is a bit fiddly. I remember the equivalent on my Morris 1000 many years ago being refurbing the brake master cylinder - inside a box section under the floor that needed the front torsion bar removing to access - on an otherwise simple car!

Cheers

Dave

It really isn't hard, or the bolts hidden. You just need to know where to look! Whole job, both sides, under an hour. With a cuppa.

Worth considering the !pen back" bowl option. You can buy them , or just cut the back off your existing ones.

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