Drop Down Accelerator Pedal.

[Wagger]

I know that this is a 'Resurrection' of a former post, but I am kicking my heels, waitingfor the printer to run off our Xmas cards, and this is my next planned job, (When the temperature recovers outside).

My Vitesse Accelerator pedal is really wonky and the movement is very coarse. The 2500 engine with SU's affects this too. Also, my UK size ten boot fouls on the outer of the cable, making matters even worse.

I have obtained a Spitfire drop down pedal and I can see how to fit it. The cable fiited now extends 1.25 inches from rest to full bore. The 'Pull' radius on the replacement pedal is 5 inches and the pedal radius is 10 inches. That will result in the pedal moving 2.5 inches from rest to full bore. There is room for this and I can create another location at the 'Pull' point if necessary.

My intention is to drill a new hole for the cable behind the existing one, which is too far forward, and mount the hinge bracket on the vertical face in front of the pedal. Hopefully, without creating a collander. I can see how to spot and mark it all.

The return spring on the pedal should not be necessary and could cause complications, like the cable jumping out of its location if it has a faster rate than the one on the carbs. Therefore, I will make a retaining clip.

I hate fast rate throttle opening and this should achieve a finer control of the power delivery. 

If Triumph had not deleted the rod operated versions on the early Vitesse, all might have been easier.

At this stage, I do not require help, I am just a tad bored. I will try this time to photograph and post the mod. My impatience needs a bit more tempering. I'll let you all know how it goes.

[NonMember]

40 minutes ago, Wagger said:

If Triumph had not deleted the rod operated versions on the early Vitesse, all might have been easier.

I had the bottom hinge rot out completely on my early rod-operated Vitesse. The pedal literally fell off and landed behind my foot. Thing is, I only figured that out several miles later, after parking up at our destination, when I went to look see if I could figure out why the accelerator felt "a little odd". I'd been driving it with just the rod linkage and no pedal at all.

[Wagger]

I had the return spring break on my 1963 1600/6. The throttle slowly went fully open. I soon 'Twigged', pulled over and fitted a bungee strap in order to get home. Not as bad as my 330D BMW running on its sump oil when the HP fuel pump seal failed. Around 200bhp being produced. That would not stop even when switched off. Had to pull into a layby and brake in top gear without disengaging the clutch. Good job it was not an Auto! It created thick fog behind me. The layby was a mere 400 yards on the left when it happened.

Since that incident  I check my oil level on my Diesel every day. The symptom is rising oil level.

The engine did another 100k miles after fitting a new pump and one injector. I was very surprised a it went round to 5000 rpm when I de-clutched. Had to really think quickly. It is very difficult telling yourself not to declutch when you, actually, come to rest.

[PeteH]

Yesssssss!. Had this happen to my best mate. A joint failed on the hydraulic system that served the Ramp system on a RoRo car carrier on passage to docking. The escape fired straight into the turbo charger on the port outer diesel alternator which then ingested the ensuing vapour accelerated the engine to twice operating speed threw the alternator off the board, blacked the ship out in a navigation channel. The Engineer on watch had the foresight to throw a plastic sheet over the turbo inlet, stopping the engine from destroying itself. 20 min of panic with standby power being restored before the inevitable "Stranding" would occur, and a large washing of soiled underwear in navigating circles.

Pete

[Wagger]

That was scary PeteH. I always considered that 'Stranglers' should be fitted to all diesel engines. Maybe even to open intake petrol engines. My rogue brother once ran out of petrol and mixed 1:1 petrol/diesel to get to the filling station. It was a high compression engine and refused to stop running when he switched off to fill up. The pump attendant was not amused.

Another friend had a strange 250cc two stroke Puch split single motor cycle (a wishbone conrod stetup). It had separate oil feed, not using oil in the fuel. That refused to stop running when it became coked up. It sat there getting very hot. I shut the choke and it stopped. The iron barrel glowed in the dark.

Strange how these posts generate such odd recalls. Way off topic, but never mind eh.

[MK2 Ed]

16 hours ago, NonMember said:

I had the bottom hinge rot out completely on my early rod-operated Vitesse. The pedal literally fell off and landed behind my foot. Thing is, I only figured that out several miles later, after parking up at our destination, when I went to look see if I could figure out why the accelerator felt "a little odd". I'd been driving it with just the rod linkage and no pedal at all.

I had a similar problem with the bottom hinge, except that rather than fall apart it had worn to such an extent that the pedal had a disconcerting 'side to side' movement. The attached spring was rusted and in bits. I sourced a NOS pedal through ebay and a fitting kit from Chic Doig and all is ok now. 

[Wagger]

Yup MK2 Ed, my pedal is like that too. I have tried soaking the floor in 'Allsorts' but the big self tappers used are well corroded in. If I attempt to turn them I can see the floor really suffering badly. I'll have to use a dremmel and griind the pivot pin off.

I would re-instate it if my foot did not foul on the cable outer. I am considering making a new pivot and linking it to the replacement pedal. I have done this on other cars by fitting a roller to the drop down spindle. It would keep it looking 'Triumphant' not 'Standard'. (Over used pun).

[Wagger]

Fitted the Spitfire pedal yesterday. Much smoother control. Pedal moves about 1.5 inches from rest to full throttle.

I drilled two holes next to the brake and clutch pedals directly in line with the 'Old' cable hole. Then drilled another for the cable ferrule 40mm behind the 'Old' cable hole. I fitted a stud and adjusting nuts in the 'Old' hole as it lines up with the stop on the lever. It allows me to adjust the pedal 'Resting' position by about an inch. Set the stop so full bore is hard against the floor with a tiny bit of clearance at the carbs.

Removed the hinge pin from the floor mounted one. Can now soak it in ATF for a few days then try to unbolt it. If it won't budge, I'll use a bit of filler and a floor mat to cover it.

Three photos are attached.

[PeteH]

19 minutes ago, Wagger said:

If it won't budge,

Angle grinder small slitting disk straight down the bolt to the floor the nut will fall in half. and the bolt can be driven out?.

Pete

[Wagger]

Yes PeteH. However, I will, probably, cut into the floor too. Since Chemo I do not trust my hands with power tools. It caused Neuropathy so I have lost sensitivity and sometimes have pins and needles. That is confusing because the angle grinder gives that sensation.

I do have some thick rubber matting and can fit it flush, under the carpet.

[PeteH]

23 minutes ago, Wagger said:

Yes PeteH. However, I will, probably, cut into the floor too. Since Chemo I do not trust my hands with power tools. It caused Neuropathy so I have lost sensitivity and sometimes have pins and needles. That is confusing because the angle grinder gives that sensation.

I do have some thick rubber matting and can fit it flush, under the carpet.

If Eastbourne was`t so far away I`d come and volunteer to do it! Stay safe.

Pete

[Peter Truman]

I did the daughters Mk2 Spit converting the rod and lever system to MkIV pedal and cable 20 years ago a vast improvement in response and feel, PLUS a significant weight savings that rod and lever weighed a ton! and was terrible when driving over speed humps!

The Vitesse is original organ pedal and no rust so easily unscrewed and I'll bite the bullit the above info very helpful, Thanks

[Wagger]

I missed a detail on my previous post. The return spring on the drop down pedal is unnecessary. I removed it because there was a risk of it jumping free from its slot. I added a ferrule from a plastic grommet to retain it. A tie wrap would do. On my car, with a 2500TC engine, there are springs at the carbs and on the operating arm. They do their job well.