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12v Heater


Aitch

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I have a 1979 Spitfire 1500 with o/d. The heater matrix/ element was disconnected when I purchased the car. Some hoses are usable and the heater valve appears OK, but the rest is in BER condition, and I have been unable to source a decent one (I don’t think new ones are available judging by the results of my searches) so I am looking at using a 12volt type fan heater (those that plug into the 12v socket types cigarette plug)as a stop gap situation. Any ideas as to the pros and cons of using something like this?

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As with any aspect of the car it's up to you what you want to do and how far you're prepared to take it, we have some very innovative solutions on this forum for almost anything!

Firstly: your current heater: how bad is it? Blocked, leaking or terminally rusty? If a good flush doesn't help - check out some of the threads on non-working heaters on the forum - then used units are available:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403296129284?hash=item5de6529104:g:KAUAAOSw3WNhkSZH

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353579951322?hash=item525301e4da:g:RGQAAOSwT3Fg9Eae

You can get them from trusted suppliers also, where you may have more comeback if they're not up to scratch.

New matrix are also available, from companies like this one or again through trusted suppliers:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293099449980?fits=Car+Make%3ATriumph|Model%3ASpitfire&hash=item443e16ae7c:g:KOIAAOSwEhJe~YjA

You can probably use a small ceramic heater - just be careful where you mount it as they can burn things - but I'd advise against plugging into the lighter socket, the wiring may not be up to a long-term draw such as a heater. I'd run a dedicated circuit through from the battery with beefier cabling and a good inline fuse.

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Mathew, Many thanks for quick reply. Haven't tried either of your suggestions, but been around the Rimmer/ Moss sites etc. I'll give them a go.

Colin, as above, many thanks. Heater is rusty, but probably well clogged. Controls are operable but in pieces at moment. Don't know if it's leaking as haven't yet tried it, and as I work on the car outside it's a bit too cold to make much progress at the moment. The ceramic heater is a possibility, if all else fails, and agree with you about the separate wiring. I'll have a look at the links. many thanks to you both.

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The guy with the electric Spitfire gutted his heater box and put in 3 PTC elements for a theoretical total of about 1500Watts of heat. It works but only if the fan is on full blast. It works better with the car moving... It sounds though like you don't want to crack the box out.

If you are trying to do something quick and easy double check how many watts they put out. I think you would need almost 1000 watts to make any difference.

These things are usually severely badly wired. Add a fuse and maybe even a relay to be safe.

One advantage would be you could theoretically heat up without the engine on and before you take off!

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Usually best to get the standard stuff working properly.  I have found often upgrades are seen as better because they are replacing worn parts that aren't functioning as originally intended. It may appear more time consuming  initially but usually its the best bet.  I have a TR4 and suppliers sell upgraded heaters for a load of money.  My standard heater and one speed fan keep my soft top TR4 as toasty as any one could possibly want in the coldest of weather.

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Cigarette lighter sockets were rated at 10 amps which would mean a maximum output of 120 watts.  Elsewhere it was stated that for decent heating you need 1000 watts so no surprise that the small fan heaters are not very effective.  Even a 12 volt device drawing 12 amps would be "grossly" in adequate!

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original engine fed hot water heating is free and probably has no effect on car/engine performance, an electric heater will require a bigger alternator and hence power sapping effect on engine performance, the magnetude of which I don't know, but I assume watts can be related to hp and load.

I'd always fix the original system, there must be an aftermarket or other car heater core that can be adapted! Our Vitesse, Sprint and Spitfire heaters have always been very effective in curling our toes up, even tho we probably don't need such effective heaters here! The Vitesse heater would dry my shoes off and keep me toasty even on the Nth York Moors!

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I think if mentioned before, my 4 has been used for my daily commute for over 7 years.

i was fine with the heat provided to the cabin, but the demister fan was pretty poor - I tried a 12v ceramic heater but to be completely frank it was useless (perhaps I had a bad one!)

When my heater matrix decided to leak I replaced it and while the heater was out of the car i fitted a SPAL sucker fan in the heater-box place of the original - I have found this to be a tremendous improvement - and at considerably less cost that fitting one of the Clayton heaters that Bob mentions above. I wrote-up the details in a thread on the TR Register forum, plenty of pics as well - plus some info on options for variable speed control of the fan motor.

The alternative heater valve was also worth adding.

....... Andy 

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Hi Andy.

12v Heaters that plug into the accessory socket produce only 150 watts max. Hardly lukewarm. You need at least 500 watts. That is the limit of the Triumph alternator. There are 500 watt cabin heaters on the market for trucks etc. You will need to connect it to the battery via a 50 amp switch and a 50 amp fuse using 50 amp wire. (Almost as thick as the battery leads).

If you read my Post 'Moron the Heater', you will find out what I did. Basically, you need to soak the matrix in washing soda overnight, then hose it through. If it does not leak and the divider is intact, then it will work.

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12 hours ago, AndyTV8 said:

I think if mentioned before, my 4 has been used for my daily commute for over 7 years.

i was fine with the heat provided to the cabin, but the demister fan was pretty poor - I tried a 12v ceramic heater but to be completely frank it was useless (perhaps I had a bad one!)

When my heater matrix decided to leak I replaced it and while the heater was out of the car i fitted a SPAL sucker fan in the heater-box place of the original - I have found this to be a tremendous improvement - and at considerably less cost that fitting one of the Clayton heaters that Bob mentions above. I wrote-up the details in a thread on the TR Register forum, plenty of pics as well - plus some info on options for variable speed control of the fan motor.

The alternative heater valve was also worth adding.

....... Andy 

Do you have a link to that forum?

What is a SPAL sucker fan?

The electric Spitfire runs a 96volt system so he runs his PTCs off of that. ...

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12 hours ago, AndyTV8 said:

I think if mentioned before, my 4 has been used for my daily commute for over 7 years.

i was fine with the heat provided to the cabin, but the demister fan was pretty poor - I tried a 12v ceramic heater but to be completely frank it was useless (perhaps I had a bad one!)

When my heater matrix decided to leak I replaced it and while the heater was out of the car i fitted a SPAL sucker fan in the heater-box place of the original - I have found this to be a tremendous improvement - and at considerably less cost that fitting one of the Clayton heaters that Bob mentions above. I wrote-up the details in a thread on the TR Register forum, plenty of pics as well - plus some info on options for variable speed control of the fan motor.

The alternative heater valve was also worth adding.

....... Andy 

+1

read here for the TR project  SPAL Fan

 

Roger

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Sorry guys, the dogs were getting at me for a walk, I messed up, so here are the corrections.

746 watts is 1 hp

1000 watts = 1.34 hp

if we used 750 watts as a approximation, then 1000 watts would = 1.33 hp. (Near enough for most of us)

Moral here is check twice, send once.

Sorry if I misled you. I was feeling a right idiot. (Thankfully he left).

 

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13 hours ago, Wagger said:

Hi Andy.

12v Heaters that plug into the accessory socket produce only 150 watts max. Hardly lukewarm. You need at least 500 watts. That is the limit of the Triumph alternator. There are 500 watt cabin heaters on the market for trucks etc.

If considered pertinent.. referring to the newly launched TR4 in 1961, Autocar  wrote "A Smiths fresh-air heat with an equivalent of 2.5 kilowatts is a further option". This I believe was soon after introduction made standard equipment for many markets.   I guess such a high output rate is required where icy cold air is being drawn in via the scuttle vent and within a few inches passing through a heat matrix it is expected to be toasty warm. Naturally a sports car with minimal insulation would soon loose heat as it drove along.  I believe the 500w truck heaters are for when drivers are compelled to take a break for xx minutes, whereas those who sleep in their cabs would (for winter use) have something more substantial.

Pete.  

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8 hours ago, DVD3500 said:

Do you have a link to that forum?

What is a SPAL sucker fan?

The electric Spitfire runs a 96volt system so he runs his PTCs off of that. ...

Roger has kindly provided a link to the full thread - thank you Roger.

the Fan I used was a SPAL VA39-A101-45A - being 5.5” (140mm) in size it fitted nicely in the TR4 heater box.  It sucks (or pulls) the air rather than blowing (or pushing) - hence calling it a ‘sucker’ 

....... Andy 

p.s. if you need any detailed info on the wiring options for variable speed then Roger is the man with the brains :) 

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