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Vitesse Mk2 rear damper conversion. Advice please.


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I'm thinking about fitting the telescopic rear damper conversion to my Mk2 but I've read a lot of conflicting reports about this. Please can members who have done this already offer their advice and opinions on fitting the kit and whether there is any benefit or not.

 

In particular I would like to know if there is any cutting or removal of metal work involved.

 

Thanks.

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No cutting etc required. When I converted my rotoflex GT6 back in the 90's it was very simple.

There is an extension bracket that bolts to the chassis shock mounting (your car will have them) and slips between the body and chassis crossmember a few inches inboard of the shock mount.

 

The difficult part is getting the correct length shock absorber. Do your research carefully here, I know even the club shop ones a possibly too long.

I believe Gary Flynn found the correct ones when he did his vitesse.

 

A better alternative may be to convert to CV shafts at the rear and use the normal type shock absorber, ideally Koni (still the best you can realistically buy)

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I did the conversion to my Mk2 a couple of years ago and the transformation has been superb - probably one of the best mods I have done to car.

 

Clive is spot on with regard to fitting.

 

Not a great fan of Rimmers but I got the whole kit from them and collected at the November NEC show; saved a fair bit on postage !!

 

I opted for the Gaz adjustable shocks which have complemented the conversion very well and have never had a problem since installation.

 

Next route is the CV shafts via Canley Classics; but that is most certainly for next year !!

 

Hope that helps ??

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

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Thank you gentlemen

 

My concern was the lip where the inner wheel arch meets the floor pan as I have read reports from people who had to cut part of that away, not a good idea in my opinion unless you are a competent welder.

 

My plan is to buy the brackets from Jigsaw, calculate the open/closed lengths and then get AVO to make them up for me, unless I can find a suitable Bilstein option.

 

Steve

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Here's a link to what I did on the Club Triumph Site:

 

http://www.club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1398031871/s-42/highlight-Koni/#num42

 

The Koni shocks I used are actually for the front of a classic Mini, part number 80-1717, do a search on the Internet, I got mine from a supplier in Leeds, Larkspeed I think, you have to do some modifications though.

 

1. Drill out the bottom shock bush to 1/2" diameter to suit the existing lower mounting stud/bolt.

 

2. Change the top shock bush to 2 x superflex SF0365P Top hat Bushes per side, you have to trim a bit off the length on each bush slightly and I Used a M22 (I think) Lock washer each side to get them the correct width to suit the Telescopic Brackets when using the original type Shouldered Bolt.

 

3. These Koni Shocks are adjustable, coming set on the softest setting, I set mine mid way and the car rode and handled well.

 

Send me an E-mail to g.flinn318@yahoo.co.uk if the above is not clear and I will E-Mail some photo's

 

P.S. I had to cut away the Lip slightly to get the Telescopic bracket to fit, if you've not fitted the Body yet then you won't have to do this if you fit the brackets before fitting the rear tub.

 

Cheers

 

Gary 

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Interesting views and applications listed above.

 

I have to say that I did not need to do any modifications to the replacement parts or vehicle body.

 

Additionally, the Gaz shocks I got are fully adjustable and fitted without modification. 

 

The damper setting is purely personal depending upon your ride & drive requirement.

 

I know everybody raves about Spax & Koni being the best out there; but I have to say that Gaz are often considered the poor relation and quite wrongly.

 

Having driven my Mk2 with purpose (!!) and travelled abroad; the set-up I have does the job perfectly. 

 

Just MHO.

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

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Food for thought indeed, I am indebted to you all for this information.

 

I agree with Clive regarding damper makes, having raced cars fitted with Spax, Koni, AVO and Bilstein and found little difference apart from price on all but Bilstein.

 

Sadly the Bilstein are not adjustable and need to be valved to suit the car and they don't have data for the Mk2 Vitesse for obvious reasons.

 

Looks like GAZ or AVO for me.

 

As for the CV conversion, that is for next year along with an LSD but I am researching replacing the hub bearings with Formula Ford style items first.

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Food for thought indeed, I am indebted to you all for this information.

 

I agree with Clive regarding damper makes, having raced cars fitted with Spax, Koni, AVO and Bilstein and found little difference apart from price on all but Bilstein.

 

Sadly the Bilstein are not adjustable and need to be valved to suit the car and they don't have data for the Mk2 Vitesse for obvious reasons.

 

Looks like GAZ or AVO for me.

 

As for the CV conversion, that is for next year along with an LSD but I am researching replacing the hub bearings with Formula Ford style items first.

 

 

I have just removed the TSSC kit from my car and they are available at a substantial saving over the new price. This includes the brackets and a pair of adjustable Gaz dampers. They are as new having done less than 2000 miles. Do drop me a PM if of any interest.

 

John

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The main reason I fitted Koni was to match the set I fitted to the front of my car. it was a bit of a Faff to get them to fit though?

 

 

I did consider the Gaz ones and the TSSC do do them at a good price in the Kit.

 

 

The important bit is the Open and Closed lengths, Open 296mm closed 218mm.

 

If you get them any more than 218mm closed they will bottom out over pot holes and when 4 up?

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Thanks Gary, 

 

I don't fault Koni just think they are over priced. The open and closed lengths are also most useful but don't help source Bilstiens as they are set for bump and rebound at build and need spring rate, corner weight, unsprung weight, mounting angles and lots of other data to valve them up accurately. Plus custom builds are scary expensive.

 

John I am interested and will try and PM you now.

 

Steve

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Koni available at a decent cost at bastuk, in Europe. Despite postage still the cheapest supplier. They make lots of alloy stuff for triumphs too.....

Re using alternative bearings, have a google for nick Jones CV conversion. I have that, rear upright machined to use mgf bearing pack, but change to CV at the same time. I intend fitting a Subaru viscous LSD soon too.

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Thanks Clive,

 

\i have read about Nick's conversion using MGF bearings but got the impression he was not doing them any longer. 

 

I plan to fit a Quaif ATB diff which is a direct replacement using the original CWP case and bearings. I was considering the Canley aluminium uprights and having them machined to take FF sealed ball races inner and outer with the Jigsaw CV drive shafts.

 

Lots to do before that though.

 

Steve

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If you check Nicks websidte, you will see his first version used the original triumph bearings but (very importantly) spacers fitted between then. A faff I believe, but without them the bearings had a very short life.

Also be aware that if the ali uprights are machined there may not be adequate material left. Hence nobody has used them with the NJ conversion.

 

The only tricky part is getting the uprights machined, but a decent machine shop can do that easily enough. I willl have a set of the diff-volvo CV's available once my subaru diff is in. Plus can supply a set of MGF outer hubs and CV's. Then all you would need is the R100 shafts (which I am keeping as amazingly they also are a near perfect fit for the subaru diff/inner CV's!!)

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