Setting the handbrake

[iana]

Ive been tinkering with the herald and that’s sparked my enthusiasm to get the vitesse running again, got the car running, now need to reset the handbrake as I think it’s binding on the near side (the wheel was getting warm last time I test drove it)

Am I correct in thinking that it’s best to disconnect the handbrake, adjust the brakes and then refit the hand brake and adjust - what’s the best way of doing this as the wheels need to be vertical. Is it a case of putting the car on a set of ramps?

[martyn wright]

Hi!  If you go to "Braking System"  have a look at "Back Brakes on page 1!  That might help!  Cheers martyn

[iana]

I’d set the brakes as described in that post and the brakes felt good, it changed when I fitted the hand brake (I wonder if I haven’t adjusted the cable correctly)

[JohnD]

Adjusting the hand brake, apart from the lever inside , needs the car up in the air for access underneath.    If this leaves the wheels in full droop, by having the axle stands under the chassis rails, then any adjustment will be too tight, and the brakes will bind, or even seize!

Place the axle stands under the rear uprights, so that the car's weight is supported through the suspension, and the wheels will be in a normal resting position so that adjustment can be done there.    Do this and you can remove  the wheels for access to the handbrake system at the uprights, without lying under the car.

      

JOhn

[Iain T]

I adjusted the rear drums and the handbrake had much less travel. My advise is to try this first as I hate grovelling under cars! 

Iain 

[Pete Lewis]

you do need to check there is no HB lever pivot  wear groove  in the back plate as this stops the cyl sliding properly

you are correct discon the cable and firmly lock up the brake with its adjuster supported as john says  leave wheels on to get a better feel when locking  up the shoes 

once locked refit the cable without any tension just a nice clevis fit.  then de adjust to just free the wheel  about 4 clicks/one turn 

as the adjuster is not easy to  use /access with the wheels on    find a 1/4 drive socket reverse fit and find one you can fit a socket to and extension

( bit of trial )   and use a ratchet . 

[iana]

I’ve spent a weekend tinkering with the vitesse to get ready for a show, the handbrake required adjusting and it’s now 9 clicks to lock the wheels, so I thought I’d adjust to improve, and I’ve checked the relay lever and I reckon that’s at about 8-10 degrees, is it worth the effort to correct or am I better just fine tuning the cable and perhaps get another turn on the clevis bracket?

[Pete Lewis]

if you shorten the primery cable to reduce travel you will reduce the 10 deg on the relay  thats not good

you really need to adjust the rear shoes first

things to check are has the HB cable lever worn a jamming groove in the back plate no easy way this needs the cyl lifting to see

dont let the axles hang . support the upright to a running height

disconnect the cable clevis and lock up the adjuster to really firmly lock the drums 

now adjust the cable to a nice fit , no tension 

de adjust the backplate adjuster to just free the wheel 

check the handbrake lever to be 4-6 clicks approx.

once all this is done you only need normal adjustments for the rest of its life

Pete

[iana]

I’ve replaced the rear handbrake lever and replaced the secondary cable as the old one was seized solid and I couldnt adjust it. Pete I’d clocked a post you did previously about the correct settings and it made me check the relay lever position and I’ve discovered it’s not at the 15 degrees as the manual it’s more like 10 degrees after Id worked out a way of checking it (I actually think a previous owner adjusted the handbrake on the primary cable (it looks like there’s very little adjustment left on the handbrake lever) I’m just curious whether there’s much improvement to be gained by correcting the angle.

The spring on the primary cable is also out of shape as if it’s overtightened.

[Pete Lewis]

as the relay straightens its angle  the mechanical advantage  reduces so you loose effort

it needs to pull from 2 oclock to 12    not 1  to 11  if you get the drift ?? if its overcentre its lacking 

Pete

 

[iana]

Pete, you’re correct I need to sort it properly, Im going to order a new cable and clips as the old one is manky (this task may have to wait till October now, the handbrake is ok, it could just be better.

[Pete Lewis]

sounds a good plan 

Pete

[iana]

Just been out in the car for a final shake down drive (about 2 miles) before our first camping weekend, when I went to put the hub caps on the passenger side wheel was warm, not hot but noticeably warmer than the drivers side, is this a sign that the brakes are slightly out on the passenger side (I did check them and they rotated freely as did the driver side) any pointer of what to check gratefully received

[Colin Lindsay]

It's possible but there will always be heat due to friction anyway. As long as they're not red hot or binding let them bed-in a bit then readjust.

[iana]

Colin thanks for the response, the brakes seem fine, no binding and I guess you’re right in that it all needs to bed in and then I can re-adjust. it’s been a long time since we used the vitesse