Jump to content

Carburetor Heat Shields


Paul Amey

Recommended Posts

On the daughters Mk2 Spit I made my own Al shields one for each carb and mounted them on the back on the manifold to carb flange, the reason so I can remove the shields to improve access to the engine bay without interfering with the carbs. It reqd the flange studs to be removed and the holes threaded right thro the flange & replacing the studs with threaded bar. The reason I fitted heat shields was Fuel Vapourissues. 

HS2 Heat Shields from underside.JPG

Front shield from front & top.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Paul Amey said:

When fitting carb. heat shields, where does one put them

I installed in this order from the manifold:-

Gasket, insulator block, gasket, heat shield, gasket (I think, I'm going to check), carburetor. 

Make sure all surfaces are clean and flat as you don't want air being sucked in the joints. 

Iain 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Peter Truman said:

On the daughters Mk2 Spit I made my own Al shields one for each carb and mounted them on the back on the manifold to carb flange, the reason so I can remove the shields to improve access to the engine bay without interfering with the carbs. It reqd the flange studs to be removed and the holes threaded right thro the flange & replacing the studs with threaded bar. The reason I fitted heat shields was Fuel Vapourissues. 

HS2 Heat Shields from underside.JPG

Front shield from front & top.JPG

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

40 minutes ago, Iain T said:

I installed in this order from the manifold:-

Gasket, insulator block, gasket, heat shield, gasket (I think, I'm going to check), carburetor. 

Make sure all surfaces are clean and flat as you don't want air being sucked in the joints. 

Iain 

Thank you, I shall follow your lead.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Slight thread drift but is there any case for using a sealant ie Wellseal on any of the joints? I know this will make dismantling a problem but perhaps if not on all the surfaces? It could minimise potential leaks as the carbs only have two fixings. 

Iain 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've always fitted dry but following other sites posts some have indeed used sealants. I only bring this up as you know I'm playing around with the intake manifold vacuum gauge posted in the Tools Topic. A sealed intake manifold is a happy manifold! 

Iain 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

but its not sealed  the throttle plates let the dreaded air inside   

1 hour ago, Iain T said:

following other sites

if you do what the WSM says you get what Triumph intended 

Pub talk is good especially if you dont follow the myths 

do take care using the piston stop dont leave it in and  go to  run the starter   that can be very expensive !!!!!

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

do take care using the piston stop dont leave it in and  go to  run the starter   that can be very expensive !!!!!

Arrives tomorrow, I'm disconnecting the battery first and putting a note there! I'll take the plugs out and also thinking of taking the rockers off so the engine turns over easily as I don't want to cause any damage to the piston. Whole the rockers are off I'll check the head torque.

Off to change the engine oil and install new choke cable. Lovely day for it, the car park should be nice and dark🕯️

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/03/2022 at 13:34, Pete Lewis said:

but its not sealed  the throttle plates let the dreaded air inside   

if you do what the WSM says you get what Triumph intended 

Pub talk is good especially if you dont follow the myths 

do take care using the piston stop dont leave it in and  go to  run the starter   that can be very expensive !!!!!

Pete

What's the piston stop used for?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Paul  ...yes just to follow Ian's  post ....whats a piston stop  >>>>>>>>>>>>>>

you can use a stop often made from an old spark plug so it protrudes into the chamber and you with care turn the engine by hand so the piston makes contact

with the stop,  mark the pulley  turn the engine backwards to again make the piston touch the stop and mark the pulley   

top dead centre is exactly half/midway between the two marks 

on some engines the timing damper ring bonding fails and the ring moves around the pulley giving false timing positions 

if that sums it up

and always remove the stop before you wander off and forget it ...

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

 Paul  ...yes just to follow Ian's  post ....whats a piston stop  >>>>>>>>>>>>>>

you can use a stop often made from an old spark plug so it protrudes into the chamber and you with care turn the engine by hand so the piston makes contact

with the stop,  mark the pulley  turn the engine backwards to again make the piston touch the stop and mark the pulley   

top dead centre is exactly half/midway between the two marks 

on some engines the timing damper ring bonding fails and the ring moves around the pulley giving false timing positions 

if that sums it up

and always remove the stop before you wander off and forget it ...

Pete

Argh, yes I am understanding now. Thank you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...