Quack Posted April 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 Hmmm I would say it’s down? IMG_3360.MOV IMG_3360.MOV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted April 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 I’m very convinced it’s an air leak I just need to find out where, I’ve seen people blow smoke in to the air intake, considering doing this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 28, 2022 Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 it is worth giving the diaphragm a stretch and check for any slips/holes make sure none of the airfilter gaskets cover any part of the holes in the front face while checking the diaphragm check the needle is firmly fixed and the shoulder on the needle is flush with the base of the air piston . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted April 28, 2022 Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 23 minutes ago, Quack said: Hmmm I would say it’s down? It does look down. As a belt and braces check undo the four cap screws a couple of turns then see if the piston drops with a clunk. I had a air coming in at the manifold/carb isolator. I wondered why I couldn't tune it then heard the sucking noise! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 28, 2022 Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 if you want to search an air leak put some petrol in a pump oil can and squirt it along the manifold and carb gaskets if it speeds up it sucking air you could use oil if you prefer waytch for it to get sucked in and you wont ignite petrol on a hot exhaust but you would light up brake fluid nasty stuff Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted April 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 Yeah I sprayed a bit of starting fluid around the hoses, no luck…this is really becoming a pain…the reason I think it’s an air leak is because some of the symptoms include higher revs, and engine struggling to start, both of which I’m having. I only sprayed on a couple parts. Bit concerned about going all over with it incase I blow myself up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted April 28, 2022 Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 Can you hear any air being sucked in? Failing that it may be time to take the carb off and clean check the flanges, isolator and gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted April 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 Few more observations I’ve just made. I can hear air being sucked in (I guess?) through the carb air filter, still haven’t located a leak. i just read online about screws that can adjust the mixture of fuel and air that you can find on the carb, could be of some help? IMG_3364.MOV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 28, 2022 Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 the cable dropping out wont happen when the cable is pulled from the pedal the screw is the adjustment for the idle the lower screw is to give some faster idle when on choke and it should have a small gap between it and the choke cam it runs agaginst when no choke is used it looks like it is in contact with the cam , thats wrong needs a small gap the main idle screw does the idle not the choke cam screw this may give you varying idles speeds simple to adjust and nip up the locking nut Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted April 28, 2022 Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 The screw will adjust the idle revs. Unlock the nut and unscrew to lower revs. I have no experience with 13/60 but I think the throttle guide should not be able to move as in your video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted April 28, 2022 Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 3 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: the lower screw is to give some faster idle when on choke and it should have a small gap between it and the choke cam it runs agaginst when no choke is used it looks like it is in contact with the cam , thats wrong needs a small gap the main idle screw does the idle not the choke cam screw this may give you varying idles speeds Well spotted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 28, 2022 Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 this is a CD150 with the "thames Barrier" type choke so its simple and wont have much to cause hic ups the choke raises a ramp which lifts the air piston and blocks the air flow but there must on all be a gap between the cam and its tappet screw any mixture adjustment is by the brass jet holder under the float chamber , the one you turn with a 2p or a washer when its hot and idling turn the jet screw to get the best running /smoothness and reset the idle if this speeds it up Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted April 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 How’s this gap? Big enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted April 28, 2022 Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 Leave a 1 to 2mm gap between the head of the screw and the cam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted April 28, 2022 Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 (edited) 7 minutes ago, Quack said: How’s this gap? Big enough? Looks a bit large and 'way' of centre! Wonder why it is bent? Have you adjusted the idle screw? (On the throttle cable) Just thought, have you tried pulling the throttle pedal UP when high revving, and checked the pedal return springg? Edited April 28, 2022 by Jeffds1360 Extra thoughts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted April 28, 2022 Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 Whilst it may have little bearing on the current situation. I note the throttle cable arm is not in line with the adjusting screw?. It there damage, or "stiction" to/on the actual spindle?. If excessive wear on the spindle and bearing Air will be drawn into the body affecting the performance> Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted April 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 I believe because the screw was so far out, over time the throttle coming up and down to get past it has bent it, it’s always been very stiff to pull out and this is clearly why Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted April 28, 2022 Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 (edited) Yea, I'd get a pair of pliers on the choke cable joint and square that up. We are talking the choke cable here, not throttle. I don't think the choke is causing the high revs unless not being released when warmed up? Needs checking that when the knob is pushed in (the dash) that the gap appears Still think the throttle pedal is not returning!! (On the floor in the car, like an organ pedal in my 13/60 Edited April 28, 2022 by Jeffds1360 More thoughts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted April 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 As for the revs issue, I’ve adjusted the idle screw now to basically pretend the problem doesn’t exist 😂 if the revs continue to jump up again in the future then there’s definitely a bigger issue to deal with. video below of the throttle cam IMG_3367.MOV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted April 28, 2022 Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 Like it. I'll have a closer look at mine in a.m. and send some pics. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted April 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 Appreciate that Jeff, and yeah I wish it was that simple, but if the throttle cable wasn’t returning then there would be a gap between the idle adjustment screw and the base no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted April 28, 2022 Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 Ummmm. No, the spring would not push it back and would keep the throttle open and hence high revs ??? I think Next time it runs away, just hook the pedal up with your toes under it.... Wear winkle pickers with toe caps in??? my hyundai ran away with me when the small rubber end of the cable at the carb end broke off and got jammed under the quadrant! Had me flummoxed until I found it. I'll compare my setup to yours tomorrow I hope. Had chemo today and sometimes I react badly for a few days. No worries Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted April 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 Oh I tried pulling the pedal forward as one of the first things, no luck though. Also I get higher than normal revs when driving too, not just idle! sorry to hear about your situation as well. Hope the chemo is helping, all the best to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted April 28, 2022 Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 👍cheers. I'm not recognising the adjusting screw ABOVE the choke adjuster bit it may be my chemo brain. Have you tried adjusting that at all? I'd stay away from mixture adjusting if it ran OK before. Must sleep. Goodnight all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 the set up is now looking better give it drive let us know how you get on ...or not Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now