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Project Stromberg SVO123R


Stratton Jimmer

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The donor manifold was an earlier type with the throttle linkage mounted to a pair of bolt holes the upper hole being where the lower hole of the new manifold is. I figured that I just had to mount that assembly slightly higher and shorten the link rod. Out with the files to extend the mounting plate holes and with a judicious bend and a hacksaw, the assembly should fit. I hadn't counted on the lagging of the exhaust manifold snagging the link so I ground off the offending corner. A snug fit was now possible.

IMG_20220429_163551860.jpg

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I now need to get some bits to connect the cables to the carbs. You may have noticed the fuel line has been patched with rubber tube. That was because the metal tubing had two very tiny leaks that only came to light when I manually primed the carbs via the fuel pump. A replacement pipe is now being sought!

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do make sure the plunger inside the two temperature compensators are adjusted to be fully closed by tightening  the small  nut 

you dont want this open when its supposed to be shut 

if you fit the gasket upside down you can block the air bypass port  for good 

basic mixture setting it the small delrin washer on the needle should be flush with the base of the air piston 

Pete

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

and to aid cold air  we made up some 2" waste pipe , hoping it was better than the convoliuted 

if you need the flexible  go to a pond pump supplier  its cheaper than triumph  parts 

the  waste pipe bridge peice is just a steady  the ends flared witha hot air gun and a big socket 

Pete

air intake.jpg

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On 01/06/2022 at 09:51, Pete Lewis said:

think its stainless flexible exhaust lots on fleabay 

Pete

Correct, thats where the bits came from, many sizes available to match your air filter box.

Got a bit carried away with stainless bits during covid lock downs.

Regards.

Paul.

 

 

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7 hours ago, Ian Foster said:

But we all know 'shiny is fast'!

Ian

Not always. I read some restoration story a while back. It was a Mini that had been in the family for years. The first / early owner was the restorer’s grandad who had one day earlier in the car’s life decided to tart up the engine bay. He’d stripped and polished absolutely everything, including the radiator, which led to the car boiling immediately and another more sensible family member yanking the rad back out and giving it a good coat of black paint again!

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Well, the NOS air cleaner box came with only one bolt of the four that are needed to attach it to the carbs. That bolt is a 5/16-18 x 2 1/8" which is I believe, a UNC thread. I managed to find two more identical but aged bolts in my miscellany box (every garage should have one) which probably came from my first Vitesse back in the 1970s. In need of another bolt, I thought I would check my workshop manual (page 0.111) to see what the spec is and was surprised to find that the book lists that bolt as a UNF.

Here's the but... 5/16 UNF are 24 TPI while my bolts are 18 TPI which makes them UNC. Is the book wrong?

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yes  believe they were all unc as carbs have the alloy casting to protect from fine thread stripping and that for  SU and  Stroms 

the wsm is also wrong says unf    ..they are def UNC   and torque  a hand nip  or  if you must     6 -8lbft  

 

Pete

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not sure but if its using a nut      then the threads have been stripped out  or was the nut just to show its thread size ??

its quite unusual to use unf on alloy castings   although good old triumph did on the main bearing bridge  

all mine have been UNC  into the carbs 

all sorts of threads are used to repair overtightened air box fixings including fitting a nut on the back face 

Pete

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