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Sill mounts on the Vitesse/Herald


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Hi folks. When re-fitting Vitesse sills, where do the skinny tabs locate or attach? Clearly they should prevent the lower edge flapping about, but I cannot see where they should locate. Where they simply 'Stiffeners' and one end has rotted away? I have carefully drilled holes in them and tied them with tie wraps for now, but that is a bit of a bodge.

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It`s the current ongoing job on the 13/60, getting them aligned and secured is a bit of a Nightmare!, the tabs should have "oval" holes , I assume to allow flexibility of alignment?. I`ve used self drilling self tap screws. The most awkward are those at the rear, which screw up from inside the rear Section. I "toy`d" with the idea of welding them on altogether!.

Pete

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we have a local vitesse that has welded door appertures and sill   its almost a monoque  but the door gaps need adjusting and its all one peice now

looks nice but ruddy hopeles if you need to faf about with door shuts and fits it cant happen withut a angle disc cutter 

Pete

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This one is an old favourite of mine from a good few years ago; the bootfloor was completely flat, no sparewheel well, then it was all coated in a white resin; no seams or gaps anywhere, no screws or visible bolts that I remember. It would probably have floated like a boat. Even the overriders got a coating. I declined to buy it for £2000.... :)

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1 hour ago, PeteH said:

It`s the current ongoing job on the 13/60, getting them aligned and secured is a bit of a Nightmare!, the tabs should have "oval" holes , I assume to allow flexibility of alignment?. I`ve used self drilling self tap screws. The most awkward are those at the rear, which screw up from inside the rear Section. I "toy`d" with the idea of welding them on altogether!.

Pete

The Stanpart left hand one I have for eventual fitment to my Herald does indeed have oval / slotted holes. 

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1 hour ago, Josef said:

The Stanpart left hand one I have for eventual fitment to my Herald does indeed have oval / slotted holes. 

The ones on mine, at least 4 where so weak i cut them off and replaced them. The sill`s themselves where in surprisingly good condition just some front end refurbishment, where they fasten to the Tubs.

Pete

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22 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

They just attach to the chassis side rails with self-tappers, screwed up through the underside. No pre-drilled holes, you just align the sill perfectly straight then mark and drill each tab to keep them in line.

That's the right way to go if you have replacement side rails.

Original side rails have pre-drilled holes with spire clips or caged nuts in don't they?
My tabs have long since broken off, but you can see the holes for the clips where they used to attach.

JJ

IMG_7189.jpeg

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On 02/05/2022 at 13:15, Colin Lindsay said:

They just attach to the chassis side rails with self-tappers, screwed up through the underside. No pre-drilled holes, you just align the sill perfectly straight then mark and drill each tab to keep them in line.

Thought that was the answer, but they must have been cut short by PO! They are not long enough to reach the rails without the sills looking wrong. Will stick to the tie wraps for now and use some 'Stops' strategically spaced. More amunition for making this car 'The wreck of the rally' if I am ever brave enough to take it to a group meet. Local mechanic reckons that it will pass an MOT. That's a surprise!

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On 02/05/2022 at 17:14, Colin Lindsay said:

This one is an old favourite of mine from a good few years ago; the bootfloor was completely flat, no sparewheel well, then it was all coated in a white resin; no seams or gaps anywhere, no screws or visible bolts that I remember. It would probably have floated like a boat. Even the overriders got a coating. I declined to buy it for £2000.... :)

interior.thumb.JPG.0a7d797c14c82c12383f646501444bf4.JPG

2031965227_dsrear.thumb.JPG.37fee08c7ee71077a56fb0497c4263fd.JPG

 

Should be named a Mono-Cockup!

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1 minute ago, Wagger said:

Should be named a Mono-Cockup!

I'm afraid I mortally offended the seller when he asked: "Would you give me £2000 for it?" and I rather rudely replied: "I wouldn't give you £200 for it..." He slammed the garage door, walked off and never reappeared... Can't blame the poor man, I did speak slightly out of turn, but it was a bit of a nightmare car and 20 years ago that was a high price even for a good Herald. I saw it on the road once, since, but no idea of who owns it now, and there are no details at all on the DVA website. I've also seen - and owned - a  lot worse myself so was perhaps a bit harsh... 

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2 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I'm afraid I mortally offended the seller when he asked: "Would you give me £2000 for it?" and I rather rudely replied: "I wouldn't give you £200 for it..." He slammed the garage door, walked off and never reappeared... Can't blame the poor man, I did speak slightly out of turn, but it was a bit of a nightmare car and 20 years ago that was a high price even for a good Herald. I saw it on the road once, since, but no idea of who owns it now, and there are no details at all on the DVA website. I've also seen - and owned - a  lot worse myself so was perhaps a bit harsh... 

Like yourself have been trying to adjust bonnet but only in order to stop it scratching the front centre Alloy 'Bumper'. Turns out that the front valance is rotating +/- a few degrees. Loose, missing and stripped bolts mostly replaced, but the front tube is flexing. I guess it will drop off one day and all will be revealed. Hey Ho!

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1 hour ago, Wagger said:

Like yourself have been trying to adjust bonnet but only in order to stop it scratching the front centre Alloy 'Bumper'. Turns out that the front valance is rotating +/- a few degrees. Loose, missing and stripped bolts mostly replaced, but the front tube is flexing. I guess it will drop off one day and all will be revealed. Hey Ho!

I'm trying to strike a balance between good door gaps and taking paint off when opening through hitting the overriders. I've spotted creasing in the front bonnet support tube which may explain the lack of available adjustment so have a replacement tube repainted and ready for fitting. This means taking the bonnet off again, not an easy one-man job.

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