Jump to content

Rebuild gearbox fail


wimpus

Recommended Posts

6 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

while the box is out do check you have the correct size flywheel spigot bush fitted 

and you can do that one handed   !!!!

hope it heals up soon 

Pete

Got the box out and in(used one)

2 weeks ago.

As the engine was new and build by me, fitted a good 2nd hand flywheel and new bush.

All was still good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

rimmers list the 15tooth version as expected 17/6 and input shafts as early and late

canley refer to thick tooth ???  so there is a profile evolution going on here somewhere 

you cant mix  them is this where your e problems are coming from  ???  sorry not a single rail fan to be able to help 

 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the selector shaft that looks like wear from the spring loaded selector plunger and wonder if it wouldnt be possible to just rotate the shaft 180º so the plunger then operates on its other side which looks perfect. Think it just needs the roll pin removing out of the gear lever coupling...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

rimmers list the 15tooth version as expected 17/6 and input shafts as early and late

canley refer to thick tooth ???  so there is a profile evolution going on here somewhere 

you cant mix  them is this where your e problems are coming from  ???  sorry not a single rail fan to be able to help 

 

Pete

Input shafts

Early was scroll seal type

Late (1979 on) was an oil seal type

Only the front part changed where the seal was, gear itself is the same (got both shafts in my stock).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, wimpus said:

More strange wear on the selector shaft... 

 

Do know where they sell NOS items.

20220604_152551.jpg

Wim, I dismantled a couple of single rail 1850 boxes to turn into 3-rail GT6 ones, one of which allegedly a factory recon one ( had been sat with no OD and lid off for many years) , other one was a Fitchetts rebuild from 20-odd years ago, 3rd was a box full of shrapnel and stripped layshaft.

There ought to be some good selector bits left over.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Mathew said:

A non overdrive single rail gear set, using all but the overdrive mainshaft will work. Thats how i rebuilt mine, but with new good main bearings.

I always put in new bearings (last ones where KSM japaneese bearings and Ina bearing on the front of the mainshaft.

Sadly even the regular 4speed gearboxes cost money here to and then you dont know the condition until you opened it up.. 🙁

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, thescrapman said:

Wim, I dismantled a couple of single rail 1850 boxes to turn into 3-rail GT6 ones, one of which allegedly a factory recon one ( had been sat with no OD and lid off for many years) , other one was a Fitchetts rebuild from 20-odd years ago, 3rd was a box full of shrapnel and stripped layshaft.

There ought to be some good selector bits left over.

Colin, ive found someone in germany selling NOS bits.

He sells it NOS for 40 euro, not bad i think.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 06/06/2022 at 00:43, wimpus said:

I dismantled a couple of single rail 1850 boxes to turn into 3-rail GT6 ones,

Scrapman during the 3 rail conversions did you use the 3 rail reverse distance piece (137687) or single rail reverse distance piece (22G1435).

I used the single rail 22G1435 and had to do serious surgery on the reverse Operating Lever 106254, cutting it belting it forward and weld it up shifting the top locating pin for the gear selectors in the lever more than 1/4in in forward!

I've never been happy with this mod and would love to know what others have done in fitting the single rail internals innto a 3 rail gearbox case, I did use a GT6 four syncro gearbox case!

Hoping you can remember which reverse distance piece you used in the conversions and what if any alteration you had to make to the reverse operating lever.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 06/06/2022 at 22:08, johny said:

Out of interest was it from Bastuck and were its dimensions within the required tolerance?

Mainshaft did come from a supplier in the Netherlands.

It was sort of ok, very tight to fit.

But now after some use it seems to be good, no worn spots and all within spec.

 

 

But seen that Bastuck now makes them to.

I know a place where they sell NOS items..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, johny said:

Im rather suspicious of 'NOS' stuff now as I cant believe they would have made such a large stock of spares back in the day🤔

What was tight about the fitting of the mainshaft?

Well.. the guy sells loads of NOS stuff.

Some ive seen never for sale ever.

 

3rd& 2nd gear bush was a bit tight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 07/06/2022 at 04:52, Peter Truman said:

Scrapman during the 3 rail conversions did you use the 3 rail reverse distance piece (137687) or single rail reverse distance piece (22G1435).

I used the single rail 22G1435 and had to do serious surgery on the reverse Operating Lever 106254, cutting it belting it forward and weld it up shifting the top locating pin for the gear selectors in the lever more than 1/4in in forward!

I've never been happy with this mod and would love to know what others have done in fitting the single rail internals innto a 3 rail gearbox case, I did use a GT6 four syncro gearbox case!

Hoping you can remember which reverse distance piece you used in the conversions and what if any alteration you had to make to the reverse operating lever.

I didn't do the swapping, Clive's friend Pete helped me out.

Quite happy to pop the top off one if you want me to check anything 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the feedback, I was also interested to know if using the shorter 3 rail distance piece affected the clearance of the reverse idler to the main shaft gears when reverse wasn’t selected ie no gear meshing of the idler and main shaft gears.

No need to specially remove the box top but next time you work on the box if you could check the distance piece fitted!

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...