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Push rod lengths


Iain T

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25 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

This is something I have noticed - a lot - recently; there are some cars with a beautifully low gap across the front bonnet - see photo

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Yet: if I was to align my bonnet and have it so low at the front, it would hit the overriders when opened. The bonnet pivot therefore has to have the correct gap to look right, but also the correct angle of pivot to go up and over. I'll be refitting mine later today or certainly tomorrow and will see what difference the replaced bonnet tube makes.

The valence however just attaches to the brackets, which will bend but not rotate, and the lower edge is attached with brackets to the front chassis legs. It would have to be very far to the rear to touch the wheels.

 

I'd fitted the spare because of a leaking rim. It turns out to be 10mm higher profile. only catches on one side. Hmm! PO long departed. Another little niggle to sort. However, the valance metalwork is flexing so may fit some stiffeners to hold it.

You'll hate this bodge. I fitted washers and spring to the front rocker stud to align with the ridge down bonnet centre, with a stiffener down the ridge. That stops it clouting the Carb. Also made a 'Top Hat' cap for the carb from pipe insulation with a plate glued to that side of the bonnet. Serves a purpose for the time being.

All manner of fitting to the pivot in the photos from all. I will do it properly one day. Promise.

Never allow anyone to sit on the bonnet. Something will bend and never recover. I may investigate making a frame for it to sit on. However, that won't correct the pivot.

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30 minutes ago, Iain T said:

Another horizontal thought last night, I need to check the feature stop and chrome trim line to see if it's straight or angling. There's no point pfaffin about raising my bonnet when this feature doesn't line up. My door gap to rear quarters are ok. As sort of are door to bonnet, the bonnet could go rearward 2-3mm which would exacerbate clearance to the rocker cover. 

I wonder if my engine is too far forward. I have a smaller gap between the rad and engine than others have reported on the forum which caused no end of issues fitting an electric fan. I currently have the engine mounts bolted to the front of the chassis brackets. It seemed logical to fit it that way but should (can you) bolt them behind the chassis bracket plate? This would move the engine back 6mm or so which probably still won't be enough. I'll also take a look if I have any shims fitted. I honestly can't remember! 

Another faff coming. Need to check if the propshaft and gearbox mounts can take moving your engine backwards or forwards. Requires disconnecting it and examining how much each way. Then you may be able to switch the mounts left to right or add spacers. Exhaust and steering will need checking again. Don't you wish that you never started sometimes? I certainly do.

If it all looks in line and works, don't upset it. You'll be on a merry go round for ever.

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50 minutes ago, Iain T said:

I currently have the engine mounts bolted to the front of the chassis brackets. It seemed logical to fit it that way but should (can you) bolt them behind the chassis bracket plate?

It is possible to fit them behind the plate but it's not the intended fitment and needs some faffing with gearbox and propshaft. What you have is correct and no room for an electric fan is standard on a Vitesse. There may, however, be a few mm of adjustment available in the slots on the engine and gearbox mounts, if you think that will help.

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2 minutes ago, NonMember said:

There may, however, be a few mm of adjustment available in the slots on the engine and gearbox mounts, if you think that will help.

I do have the engine right back on the slots. 

As I've mentioned before I had to get a bespoke short water pump to for a 12" electric fan. Works great but a lot of messing around. 

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something has to be wrong , the rocker fouls is a good twiddle job to do with the head skim but so many vitesse have the alloy cover fitted without any bonnet foul ups that there must be a height setting here thats 

upsetting a simple cover swap 

GT6 is a known headache but not common on vitesse's

Pete

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7 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

just a thought  the tie rods should be fixed to the bonnet pivot bolt to control the fwd aft 

adjustment and keep the drop links as you wany them 

The plates as fitted to my car have the slotted end as the bonnet pivot. The slots are angled down and at the moment the bonnet is at the bottom of the slot so as far forward and as low as it can go. Ideally, subject to feature lines, I want the bonnet pivot to go vertically up but not forward which increases the door and windscreen lower gaps. I did adjust the tie rods yesterday. 

A fresh day I need to take another peak at the problem. 

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Taken a peak. No shims on the passenger side but three on the drivers. These have to remain or the exhaust will hit the steering column! 

The engine mounts are as far back on the slots as possible. 

It looks as though I could raise the front of the bonnet and would probably make the feature line better. However I don't think I  can do that with the current plates. I'm going to take an overrider off. 

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On 08/05/2022 at 11:55, Iain T said:

A photo of my rockers, you can see the tappet screws are nearly fully up and without the pedestal shims it runs out of adjustment. As I said the rockers arc from say 9 o'clock to 7 when they should theoretically be 10 to 8 ie equally from the horizontal. At valve open, say 7 o'clock, the screws are so high they sometimes even touch the pressed steel cover. Correcting the rocker geometry would solve the cover problem. 

IMG_20220507_162230.jpg

Iain's rocker assembly etc looks far cleaner that mine (which are kind of blackened, maybe by lack of oil changes in the past?, or are Iain's above averagely, super clean?). 

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I've given up for the moment! 

I undid the pivot and plates at the bumper bar and played around with the tie rods. The bonnet can swing on the bumper bar bolt. I can raise the bonnet but this gives a horrible gap at the bottom of the door to bonnet. I've lifted as far as I can without it looking too bad and nipped all the bolts up. The ali cover still hits the tappet screws (sits about 3mm off) and carefully closing the bonnet the front cover fins still makes contact. 

Spent well over a day mucking around with this and given the several issues I've refitted the old cover and need to think about if it was all worth it! 

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well you know i love Must Haves  (not)   but most ally covers dont have the headache you managed  Ha 

unless you have a GT6 

i have the cover the club shop tried hard to reduce height for a GT6 and it failed so bought it from Berns Bazaar for £10

but being a 2000  theres loads of space 

Pete

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Putting the tappet screw issue aside perhaps having three engine mount shims on the offside is contributing to stopping the engine from settling lower. I'll have another look if in fact I could remove one or two. I notice the rocker cover centre is way off to the nearside of the bonnet. 

As to the odd rocker geometry it must be as Triumph designed as the pedestals are standard and to describe an equal arc from horizontal a good 3mm would have to be machined off plus correspondingly shorter pushrods. However it works so I ain't doin nuffin else! I'll put my bling chrome painted cover on and move onto something else....perhaps driving it. 

Iain 

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Lagging it would stop the bonnet clanging too!

Looking at the trim lines on my car shows that the front must have been sat on. Fit some spikey TRIUMPH initials. Embossed bottoms are all the rage, Sorry! it;s tattoos.

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41 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

one advantage you will now miss is the ally covers dont get cooled so easily so you dont get short run hair cream in them  

Another is the fire trap baffle. The ali covers don't have them. 

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