Herald 1200 -- gearbox removal question

[jagnut66]

Hi, 

I am now hoping that in the next couple of weeks I will get Hetty into the garage to remove the gearbox and replace it with my overdrive unit.

I am also hoping I can do this through the car without the need to pull the engine out (thus minimal disruption).

Do members have any helpful tips for doing this? / Things to avoid doing etc.?

Any pictures of this being done would be great too.

Many thanks,

Mike.

[Paul H]

I removed gearbox and overdrive on my own in my Vitesse . I removed the passenger seat and door to make the job easier . Support the engine with a suitable jack . I used old rugs to cover the floor and a piece of ply to act as a skid for the gearbox . I’ll dig out my forum posts as I modded the solenoid fixing bolt to allow it to be changed in situ 

Paul

check out this link 

 

[NonMember]

It helps if you can recruit a mate/neighbour/son to help with the lifting but as Paul says, it is possible by yourself, at least on a Vitesse. The GT6 has extra challenges.

[Colin Lindsay]

Remove the front seats first! You can remove the tunnel cover without but it's easier if they're gone first. Similarly, removing the top remote gearlever extension - four bolts on the top - gives more room for movement but don't drop anything down inside the gearbox. (Been there!) Support the rear of the engine with a large block of wood on a suitable jack under the sump so that the gearbox can be disconnected from everything before it's removed but the weight is well supported and it won't drop down or strain any other part. Cover the floors with heavy cardboard especially the sills and be careful of the door trims. Once you start to raise the rear of the gearbox a suitable length of wood slid under it, across the floorpan edges, will help it slide and protect paint and carpets. Watch your back - it's heavy with that cast-iron bellhousing.

[Josef]

1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Similarly, removing the top remote gearlever extension - four bolts on the top - gives more room for movement but don't drop anything down inside the gearbox. (Been there!)

All my manuals recommended making a temporary cover in cardboard to prevent anything getting in once the remote is off.

[Pete Lewis]

make up two long studs to fit in the top fixings of the mounting plate/cyl block   these need a slot adding to air removal after its all in place

but they help take the weight whilst wiggling the last bit of the fit 

also use a bit of timer size not important you can use this as eyesight gauge to make sure the clutch hsg and engines gap is as parallel as possible

just glancing at it will be a mistake as what looks straight wont be anything like .

the overdrive rear mount .. suggest you tack weld or adraldite the bolts in place as getting on the top hex is a right faf  

tack weld stops it turning when adding nuts underside 

Pete

dont forget to fill with EP90 GL4 oil  

Pete

 

[Colin Lindsay]

2 hours ago, Josef said:

All my manuals recommended making a temporary cover in cardboard to prevent anything getting in once the remote is off.

Once it's off... it's as you lift it off the washers slide to one side and drop down inside... ping ping ping... echo echo echo... all the way to the bottom.

[Pete Lewis]

i have never had to take the remote off  its too useful to use as a hand hold  

i would recommend you remove the heater air distribution box its just 2 nuts and the cable  gives you far more room to fiddle the clutch hsg  

out and under 

Pete

[NonMember]

1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

would recommend you remove the heater air distribution box its just 2 nuts and the cable 

I really, really wish that were true of the GT6 one!

[Pete Lewis]

yes it only works on H and V  and maybe bonds   

Pete

[jagnut66]

Many thanks for the replies / tips. 👍

Talking of the clutch, is there a flywheel locking tool available that members can recommend?

I have one for my 'A' series Morris engines but I doubt it will be any use for a Triumph unit.

Best wishes,

Mike.

[NonMember]

12 hours ago, jagnut66 said:

Talking of the clutch, is there a flywheel locking tool available that members can recommend?

I made one from some steel bar - two bits of 40mmx5mm and a bent piece of 10mmx3mm - drilled, welded and painted. I wouldn't be surprised if the one for your A-series fits - they probably used the same Lucas starter motor.

[Pete Lewis]

I have never needed to lock the flywheel on a clutch change 

just take care if you happen to torqure the setcrews you just counteract any rotation 

youre only on 18-20 lbft  no gorilla hands here 

if you are  after a struggle then a decent bladed screwdriver in the starter port works 

Pete