alan.gilbert_6384 Posted May 8, 2022 Report Share Posted May 8, 2022 Hi All, Just completed the strip, cleaning inspection and lubrications of the front suspension. The OS looks corroded, i think this was due to some PO or garage using grease in both the trunnions (why the heck did triumph have to put a grease nipple in there ?). The NS looks ok I think (there are much wiser people in this forum than me for this bit). Both trunnion threads look very good, but they don't have the stanpart logo. Cleaned out all parts re-greased the pivot link and filed the trunnions with EP90. So my choices going forward are; 1. Good secondhand OS link ? £ where to get it from ? 2. New vert links and trunnions both sides, £££ 3. New trunnionless kit £££££ Rimmers or Canley ?? Any ideas ? or a 4th option ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 8, 2022 Report Share Posted May 8, 2022 triumph never fitted the grease nipples only blanking plugs its a previous owner thats left the nipples in place and dear old garage techy just used whats seen nver looked at the WSM happens a lot i woud re use the lower pic but scrapp the others Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 8, 2022 Report Share Posted May 8, 2022 What you end up with depends on your bank balance and available budget! Out of those photos the top and bottom are probably useable, the middle two definitely not. If they snap it's usually at the top / beginning of the threads so avoid any kind of wear there at all, it's not nice when they shear even at the usual low speed. The threads should be sharp, any kind of blurring / wear points to poor maintenance and they're best avoided. I've a shelf full of links that I'll probably never use but can't bring myself to throw out, but the state of the threads means I'd never risk them on a car. If you have two good useable vertical links then new trunnions will help, provided they're a good brand and not the ones where the oil leaks out of the bottom - this means you're not dealing with wear in both the vertical link and the trunnion so there should be more grip around the threads. Trunnionless is something I've never tried, it's a solution but not a fit and forget option - they do require some maintenance, but it's down to personal preference and as I said before, cost. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted May 8, 2022 Report Share Posted May 8, 2022 Having had a vertical link break, I don't mess about, none of those pictured pass the Doug "Do you remember bouncing down the road?" test. Difficult to tell if your trunnions are in spec. A long bar under the suspension, heave it up and down and you'll see movement between trunnion and link. But how much is too much? My MOT man said "Nah, too much" So I changed them, but once off I really couldn't see the difference between old and new by looking inside at the trunnion threads. The VL's however ANY pitting at the top of the thread or shoulder, ditch it. Club shop sell new trunions £45 each and VLs £138 each, so £366. Rimmer's Trunionless kit £444. Never heard of a trunnionless one breaking, but there aren't that many around compared to the original. Doug 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted May 8, 2022 Report Share Posted May 8, 2022 Wins International at East Grinstead found me a very good S/H link and Trunnion for my Vitesse. Original part too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted May 8, 2022 Report Share Posted May 8, 2022 the trunnionless conversion is pretty much the same price as new VLs and trunnions (if from Canleys, who produce them) at £344. I fitted them to my Spitfire, as they are rather stronger, and require virtually zero maintenance (squirt of wd40 a couple of times a year) Peace of mind and all that. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pettifordo Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 I’m in the process of fitting the rear trunnions which were covered in grease ! Should these be filled with oil as well ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 No, the rear ones are just pivot tubes, they don't have the threaded part that needs EP90 (and provides an oil bath for it to sit in). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 In the photos are the VL threads worn like that or originally machined with a trough in the peaks? To me it looks like the constant impacts of vertical motion have produced lips on both faces of the thread peaks which of course would increase free play... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted May 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 1 hour ago, Pettifordo said: I’m in the process of fitting the rear trunnions which were covered in grease ! Should these be filled with oil as well ? The through bolt is recommend to have a slight amount of copper slip to aid it not corroding on. The pivot tub should be grease externally with Zinc based grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted May 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 40 minutes ago, johny said: In the photos are the VL threads worn like that or originally machined with a trough in the peaks? To me it looks like the constant impacts of vertical motion have produced lips on both faces of the thread peaks which of course would increase free play... Good point, I will measure the good one (NS) on the machined area not threaded, as this should be the thread pitch major diameter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 and to clarify the plug /greaser in the rear trunnion brg. hsg only greases the drive shaft bearing there is no internal link to the trunnion bushes both front and rear trunnion bushes are not lubricated in any service and whilst the various tin cups and 0 rings are to keep water out supposedly sealed for life and not serviced means they last as long as they last ...thats very variable they didnt last well back in the 60s and its no better now going poly has some advantages but they are quite costly if you get supaflex they come with a sachet of bush lubricant SuperFlex advanced polyurethane suspension bushes Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted May 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 2 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: and to clarify the plug /greaser in the rear trunnion brg. hsg only greases the drive shaft bearing there is no internal link to the trunnion bushes both front and rear trunnion bushes are not lubricated in any service and whilst the various tin cups and 0 rings are to keep water out supposedly sealed for life and not serviced means they last as long as they last ...thats very variable they didnt last well back in the 60s and its no better now going poly has some advantages but they are quite costly if you get supaflex they come with a sachet of bush lubricant SuperFlex advanced polyurethane suspension bushes Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 Alan yes............... just on assembly not during its service life unless you like stripping them down frequently pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 1 hour ago, johny said: In the photos are the VL threads worn like that or originally machined with a trough in the peaks? They are originally machined with a slight trough in the peaks. I'm not quite sure why but it's a very specific thread profile on there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpbarrett Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 2 minutes ago, NonMember said: They are originally machined with a slight trough in the peaks. I'm not quite sure why but it's a very specific thread profile on there. I think the thread is rolled rather than cut and I assume (probably wrongly) that's the reason for the slightly strange thread form. I think it means the thread is stronger than a normal cut thread. mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 12 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: Alan yes............... just on assembly not during its service life unless you like stripping them down frequently pete saying that, as part of routine maintenance you can undo the nuts on all the trunnions bushes (only non stainless ones of course) and check the bolts are still free once a year. This can be done by tapping the bolt through a little and back again but not too far or the seal plates can get dislodged. Getting some lubricant on them at the same time is a nice idea but not easy without removing the bolt completely... With the VL threads maybe the groove is to faciltate oil access? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: and to clarify the plug /greaser in the rear trunnion brg. hsg only greases the drive shaft bearing there is no internal link to the trunnion bushes There are two grease nipples in my Herald 13/60 rear hub housing; I've no idea if they're both factory or one has been PO-added but one is for the bearing and the other appears to lead into the rear trunnion. Apologies for the terrible attempt at highlighting with arrows but they're to the left of the brake adjuster in the shot. Of course the photo would have to be taken before I refurbished that half-shaft so they're covered in underseal; if I can find a clear photo I'll post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said: I've no idea if they're both factory or one has been PO-added I'm pretty sure the one into the trunnion is PO-added - I've never seen one there on any of the many small chassis Triumphs I've encountered, but I have seen references to it as a modification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 Yes I think its an add on but would have to match with a hole in the plastic bush as well? Also it doesnt help with the biggest problem I found which is the bolt seizing rapidly in the steel crush tube.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted May 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 2 hours ago, mpbarrett said: I think the thread is rolled rather than cut and I assume (probably wrongly) that's the reason for the slightly strange thread form. I think it means the thread is stronger than a normal cut thread. mike The vertical is ductile cast iron, you wouldn't normally roll a thread on this material. Plus the shape of the front VL makes it very difficult to achieve a rolling centre needed for the rolling process. I am assuming they are fixtured and machined, probably back in the day, by two operations one turning the later threading. The peak profile is interesting and it looks like an undersize major diameter which was then machined, they both appear to be the same, so it maybe deliberately done, for lubrication ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted May 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: Alan yes............... just on assembly not during its service life unless you like stripping them down frequently pete Cheers Pete, interestingly the rear is different, just grease (no mention of zinc) and in-between the bushes, maybe we should all install that extra nipple ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 3 hours ago, NonMember said: I'm pretty sure the one into the trunnion is PO-added - I've never seen one there on any of the many small chassis Triumphs I've encountered, but I have seen references to it as a modification. I knew I had photos somewhere, taken before the full stripdown. Never saw it before on any car, Rob, so it's interesting.... but no idea if it actually does any good! Both trunnions replaced by me on rebuild and I suppose as neither were seized it may have worked. I never thought to inspect the inside of the link when disassembled to see what holes there were / are, and too late now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 its a idea but guess it needs a scroll or slot to allow grease to presumably surround the bush or a hole through to the crush tube to enable grease to go somewhere ??? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 Yes its even harder to see how the grease from the additional nipple could get all the way to the inside of the crush tube to stop it seizing.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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