Pettifordo Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 7 hours ago, alan.gilbert_6384 said: Zinc based grease So oil on the front ones but Zinc based grease on the back - right ? could copper grease work instead as I have some 🧐 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 21 minutes ago, Pettifordo said: So oil on the front ones but Zinc based grease on the back - right ? Not quite. If you refer back to the diagram in the manual page that Alan posted a few posts after what you quoted, you will see that the front "trunnion" has two parts to it; the deep threaded main body (into which the vertical link screws) and the horizontal pivot (through which a crush tube and nylon bushes go, between the wishbone arms). The vertical link threaded part is an oil bath and should be filled with EP90 gear oil. There's a blanking plug (or an oil nipple) on the vertical link to allow this to be re-filled as a regular service operation. The nylon bushes, which are the same as the rear ones, should be lubricated with zinc based grease on assembly but have no easy facility for in-service re-lubrication. Copper grease is good for the bolt that goes through the crush tube, but check its plastic-compatibility before using it on the nylon bushes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted May 11, 2022 Report Share Posted May 11, 2022 Definitely a PO mod. I did this on my motor cycle swinging arms as the factory one just filled the frame never getting to where it was needed. As stated by one of you, it would have to align with another mod to get grease to where it is needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 11, 2022 Report Share Posted May 11, 2022 Well I said the new grease nipple would have to align with a hole in the plastic bush but of course thats wrong as the bush is in two halves so as long as the hole is half way along the housing any grease pumped in should spread both ways between the bush and crush tube. Wont help the bolt to resist seizing but should prolong the life of the bush👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 11, 2022 Report Share Posted May 11, 2022 as the two bush halves are pretty much compressed together to effectively get any grease to surrond the bush or the tube it would need some man made relief adding or you are surely pumping grease up a blind alley .... one of those bright ideas that probably doesnt work that well Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 11, 2022 Report Share Posted May 11, 2022 Well I suppose it depends on the manufacturer of the bushes but the sectional diagrams of both front and rear trunnions in my WSM show a gap of a few mm between the two halves when installed and that would allow grease to then flow out each way between bush and crush tube. In fact if the crush tube had a small hole drilled in it midway it looks like grease would then also be forced between it and the clamp bolt🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 11, 2022 Report Share Posted May 11, 2022 I think the grease would flow because although 'blind alleys' as we well know the rubber rings at each end definitely dont seal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 11, 2022 Report Share Posted May 11, 2022 Guys, I hate keeping you all in suspense but I removed the old setup, grease-covered and all as it was, and dumped it... On reassembly I gave it five strokes of a grease gun and it never came out again... but where it went? We may never know.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 11, 2022 Report Share Posted May 11, 2022 I quite like the idea especially with a hole drilled in the crush tube but its probably easier to polybush... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted May 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2022 Hi All, so after finding a corroded VL its now going to be replaced with Canleys finest (based on the fact that the costs were not that different). Seems like good units but not sure about the load path going through a circlip? But they have made loads so maybe its just me ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted August 27, 2022 Report Share Posted August 27, 2022 I have nipples on the front trunnions. how do you get oil in them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted August 27, 2022 Report Share Posted August 27, 2022 Use a grease gun but fill it with EP90 instead of grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted August 28, 2022 Report Share Posted August 28, 2022 easiest way is to use a standard trigger oil can, take the grease nipple out and squirt the oil in. I usually put and allen key under the top seal and put oil in until it runs out. There is zero need for the pressure from a grease gun except to open the grease nipple, unless they are already full of grease in which case they should be stripped and cleaned 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted August 28, 2022 Report Share Posted August 28, 2022 11 hours ago, NonMember said: Use a grease gun but fill it with EP90 instead of grease. Same here. The first time I did mine grease came out, a PO must have greased them I assume. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted August 28, 2022 Report Share Posted August 28, 2022 Ref nipples I’ve removed the spring and ball so I can push oil thro with a good quality steel and brass pistons oil can I then seal the nipple with a plastic push on cap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 28, 2022 Report Share Posted August 28, 2022 If you need to, just cut the end off a suitably long grease nipple and screw that in to the hole. Other end to oil can. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted August 28, 2022 Report Share Posted August 28, 2022 3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said: If you need to, just cut the end off a suitably long grease nipple and screw that in to the hole. Other end to oil can. What’s the recommended oil ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted August 28, 2022 Report Share Posted August 28, 2022 EP90 GL4 for trunnions 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted August 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2022 4 hours ago, NonMember said: EP90 GL4 for trunnions `Do not use GL5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 28, 2022 Report Share Posted August 28, 2022 4 minutes ago, alan.gilbert_6384 said: `Do not use GL5 'Unless youre completely sure its a brand thats ok for yellow metal' I think is the previously hard won agreed answer😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted August 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2022 Just now, johny said: 'Unless youre completely sure its a brand thats ok for yellow metal' I think is the previously hard won agreed answer😁 Yep agreed, but trying to get the data sheets on some of these GL5's is impossible, and if you do get them, they are inconclusive. I have tried, and being a major automotive customer of these products, its tilll impossible, the companies simply won't commit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 28, 2022 Report Share Posted August 28, 2022 Ha, as weve seen it can be a contentious subject and thats why 'completely sure' keeps everyone happy👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinR Posted August 28, 2022 Report Share Posted August 28, 2022 GL5 (of any composition) is fine for oiling trunions !!! GL5 compositions that are NOT "yellow metal friendly" only become a problem when they get very hot and are under extreme shear stresses - as one gets in a differential. http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/brochures/g2457_gearlube_study.pdf ALL GL5 compositions CAN cause problems with brass synchro rings in the gearbox. https://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted August 28, 2022 Report Share Posted August 28, 2022 Why persue the GL5 argument when it cannot be used in the gearbox or diff ie GL4 is specified SO why keep any GL5 on your shelf for it's potential use is solely in the trunnions & maybe the rack & pinion steering, just keep GL4 it does it all duties! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 29, 2022 Report Share Posted August 29, 2022 1 hour ago, Mathew said: I run a standard spitfire with trunnions and a modified one with the conversion. Both work well but on my modified one i would be worried how long they would last. You worry that the trunnionless will wear? Mine have been on for a mere 30K or therebouts. They get the very occasional squirt of wd40 as recommended by CC, but I doubt it is even yearly (must try harder!) No signs of any wear. And my car is not cosseted. Others have probably done much higher mileages on them, or seek the experience of Caterham owners, where the design comes from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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