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J type o/d odd behaviour


AlanT

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very few places give sensible clues about J types 

blocked needle holes is D type a very different means of operation of the J type hydraulic system  

electrical is obviously one culprit  disconnect and re test is a good call  but on all the mind of its own J types i have played with has been the solenoid

its the life and soul of what goes where ,  not the main sol  0 rings but the small ones inside on the shuttle , when they stick or leak you get pumped pressure where you dont expect it   so you get the its IN  its OUT all by its self   

 

Pete

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Steps then:

1. Mechanical test (disconnected power)

2. Solenoid rebuild.

3. Fingers crossed! 
Hopefully not serious as was working beautifully. A surprise given who knows how long it was since last used!

 

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i first came across this on the ride home from buying the 2000    fine on test runs  but going home it started its dance 

so lack of use has something to add to the why.  ............come across a few more since then  

paddocks sell the 1"af thin spanner if you cant undo it .

Pete

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It was one of those ‘Triumph experience’ trips yesterday. Had popped to garage to get front wheels aligned. Aside from the o/d issue I returned with a flooding rear carb caused by a sliver of rubber blocking the valve (probably from pushing the pipe on as post the fuel filter in flow).

The post resto niggles will, hopefully, subside soon…just as well it looks beautiful! 

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When I bought car 9 years ago, J type fine on test run and again for first few miles of driving, after which it would often not engage, not disengage and even engage of own accord. I disconnected solonoid and would still engage.

Spoke to Dave Twigger, OD spares of rugby, who was very helpful. Suggested in may be just the solonoid (dirty piston thing sticky/hard O rings) though also the pressure relief valve, hard O rings (very fiddley job to replace, info on buckeye Triumph web site). Did both jobs, held my breath, and it was fine for about 7 years. Two years ago started to not disengage at times. Just removed solonoid this time, it was not clacking when shaking it (no good for Bez), cleaned it and replaced all the O rings again as a matter of course. I didn't lube the piston thing this time, as wondered if the lube had got hot and made it it prone to sticking?.

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2 hours ago, daverclasper said:

When I bought car 9 years ago, J type fine on test run and again for first few miles of driving, after which it would often not engage, not disengage and even engage of own accord. I disconnected solonoid and would still engage.

Spoke to Dave Twigger, OD spares of rugby, who was very helpful. Suggested in may be just the solonoid (dirty piston thing sticky/hard O rings) though also the pressure relief valve, hard O rings (very fiddley job to replace, info on buckeye Triumph web site). Did both jobs, held my breath, and it was fine for about 7 years. Two years ago started to not disengage at times. Just removed solonoid this time, it was not clacking when shaking it (no good for Bez), cleaned it and replaced all the O rings again as a matter of course. I didn't lube the piston thing this time, as wondered if the lube had got hot and made it it prone to sticking?.

That’s interesting @daverclasper Did you conclude (first time) that it was just the solenoid to blame? Sounds exactly like mine I.e engaging itself .

Thanks

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Well Alan, I never knew if it was either the solonoid or PRV, or could have been both I guess?. I think Dave Twigger thought the PRV may have caused the self engagement?

I thought I may as well do both and also check both filters while OD sump plate off for PRV, though filters not bad at all.

If you do use Buckeye info, I think they have the PRV and the pump access plugs position mixed up (from memory). Also I used a hammer and punch to unscrew them, rather than the home made tool.

Also when solonoid is off, it is maybe worth checking the small narrow oil passageway in that area is clear, a poke with a bit of wire I understand

 

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I’ve now disconnected the electrics and it’s definitely not electrical. Pressure is somehow building up and actuating the overdrive once the oil is warm.

Suggests a leaking ‘o’ ring somewhere. 
I’m going to put it up on the ramps and take a look. Works beautifully when cold! Takes about 5 miles before problems arise. If it was a blocked valve I’d have expected issues from cold (thicker oil) not warm. 
What to start with first? Solenoid or drain down and base plate off? 

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12 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

start with the sol, you will loose  when you unscrew it 

this has to be the 0 rings on the shuttle inside the sol.

Pete

I hope you’re right @Pete Lewis Will be an easy fix . It’s sat in the drive cooling right now so I can use reverse! 

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you do need a thin 1" af spanner  grind one thinner or get a spanner  paddocks list one and a 0 ring kit

dont be tempted to use grips on the body you can shear all the small roll pins that hold the body together 

if its loosen fine but if its secure  NO  

you will get a  cupful of oil leak out 

dont loose the dowty washer  

Pete

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you wont get at it from underneath    chassis is def in the way  

you have the tunnel off why try to grovel  it wont work 

1 hour ago, AlanT said:

So sounds hopeful

i would bet my boots on it 

to me its a   pretty std J type    failure 

Pete

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All you need to do is break the seal / loosen it off very slightly with the spanner, it'll probably turn under finger pressure after that. Definitely much easier to work on from above, even if everytime you drop something you have to get out and reach under...

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yes the seal is supposed to be a dowty washer witha self sealing ring integral 

its a std thread so a Colin says once you have un nipped it twiddles out easily , there is nothing inside to fall out or need to catch 

you can work on the sol on the dinning table  Ha !

Pete

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