Oil Pressure Relief Valve . . . Herald 1147cc (1970 - original engine)

[Chris A]

2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

but only change one part to identify the culprit not all the parts at once 

Everyone should have a plaque with that on clearly visible where they/we/I keep the tools.

[PeteH]

44 minutes ago, Chris A said:

Everyone should have a plaque with that on clearly visible where they/we/I keep the tools.

The other Plaque, should read K. I. S. S.

Overcomplicating anything, leads to:- Stress, High B.P. And a rapidly emptying bank account.😭

Pete

[Colin]

Dear All Chaps;

Thank you all SO much for the continuing help & support and common sense.

I have successfully 'disappeared' the dash light, previously either on temporarily or as yesterday, full-time, warning me of alleged low oil pressure.

Achieved, by your very helpful advices to change the oil pressure switch!

Lucky I'd considered to buy one previously (meaning for a long time to have changed it, actually).

I know why I didn't change it - the old - and I think, original - oil pressure switch - was a devil to shift. I can remember trying to shift it previously and being puzzled by just how tight it was. So gave up for a while until this hiatus.

Access to the nut to the rear of the unit was limited (from the top of the engine bay) and it was damned tight. 

I cannot (& my records do not show) that I have ever changed that switch. So I guess 50 years is not a bad stint of service!

I've thrown it away now, but I wonder could I merely have cleaned it out with clean fuel and replaced to see if that had cured its action?

Should have saved it, cut it in half to see what's what, really!

I had to remove the oil filter to gain decent enough access for removal. I changed the switch and re-fitted the 'old' (but really new) oil filter on the basis that I eliminate only one element of the offending possibilities at a time - as per the advices given.

The replacement switch is of a different design - attached here - and really only slightly easier to get a spanner or socket on (from the topside).

Test driven, no oil pressure light came on at all.

Very pleased about this. Quite a weight off one's mind.

Thanks again for all the suggestions and assistances. I hope this will assist others. No doubt the more experienced members out there have helped many others - so thanks for the repetition required and patience shown.

Pic of my car, renovated 2020-21 also.

Cheers and massive thanks, everyone.

Best,

Colin.

 

[Pete Lewis]

so the do the easy worked well then

sorry if we battled on but never get carried away with £££s before you  change the ppppennies 

Pete

[Colin]

Quote

if you strip a LP switch its a very cheap simple bit of kit  it relies on a weady spring and small diaphragm  as i have said  more like a cheap bell push 

its very easy to fail engine vibrations will wreck the spring inside over time  and we all think this is what has failed 

you have one 

Indeed! Engine vibrations and . . . everything else. My last comment on that is that they are allegedly to build some roads in and around Hernia Bay!! (Yes, I did say Hernia! 😉. I can see all the joint bushes needing replacement because of the above!

[Colin]

Pete Lewis - great advice. Thanks once more. 

[Chris A]

1 hour ago, Colin said:

Test driven, no oil pressure light came on at all.

I assume it did come on when you turned the ignition to the 'on' position before starting the engine?

[johny]

Ha ha that would be ironic if the new switch is now open all the time!

One thing Id like to comment is that I would recommend never driving a car with its oil light on. If it doesnt go out on start up or comes on while driving I would stop the engine at the earliest opportunity and if necessary call out a pick up truck. It 99% probably going to be a faulty switch but considering the potential damage and work required to repair it the risk isnt worth taking.... 

[Wagger]

Yup, just change the switch. THEN fit a gauge and measure the pressure with a gauge if it still comes on. Both of these take minutes not hours. You only need to fit a gauge temporarily to check it.

[Colin]

Gents! 

All good advice. I shouldn't havd driven, oil warning light on . . . but somehow I could tell it wasn't the engine failing. 

Cold engine - ignition switched on 5 mins ago. Oil warning light 'On'. Didn't worry about starting her. My drive earlier with no light showing was good enough for me.

Checked oil filter, oil pressure valve and oil pressure switch for tightness before coming in tonight.

All good!! 

Thanks again to all.

Best,

C.

[SpitFire6]

Hi,

Fit an oil pressure Gauge.

Or

keep guessing?

Cheers,

Iain.

PS. Stop using 20W50. LOL.

[Colin]

Iain SpitFire6; 

The problem with 20/50W is?? 🤔

[Clive]

12 hours ago, Colin said:

Iain SpitFire6; 

The problem with 20/50W is?? 🤔

Fine for pottering, but there are much better oils now. 

Remember many would have been horrified at the thought of a multi grade back in the 60s. And carried on using straight 30.

60 years on we have synthetic oils that are far superior. And ideal for a hard driven car. But for most any old 20/50 will be fine. Just change it annually or 3k max. 

The difference is obvious. One trackday will turn a mineral oil black and ready for change. Synthetic will do 5, plus another 5k of touring etc, and still look fine.

[Colin]

Hey Clive. 

Thanks for answering that.

So that begs the question - what grade synthetic?? For my aged, tiny 1147??!? 

Best,

Colin

[Colin Lindsay]

My 13/60 came with four bottles of 30w, sadly none of it had ever been put into the engine but of what was dripping about in the sump, I'll assume it was the same. It's an old engine on higher mileage and gets 20/50 Penrite Classic. Anything else is a waste.

[Colin]

Hi Colin,

I guess I've never seen 30 grade because I've never looked for it!

The 20/50W I buy from the Club, to support it.

Is 30 grade synthetic?

Maybe the Club could stock it? Surely most of our engines are getting on a bit and need that extra protection? 

Does 30 grade show as 30W? 

C.

[Colin Lindsay]

23 minutes ago, Colin said:

Hi Colin,

I guess I've never seen 30 grade because I've never looked for it!

You're better off without it!! It's a single grade, not a modern multigrade, so basic, probably adequate for the time, but there are much better about these days. However: being a potterer and certainly not a fast driver or a racer, the closest I get to a track is making sure there isn't a train coming, so I use the basic 20/50 stuff these days.

[NonMember]

40 minutes ago, Colin said:

So that begs the question - what grade synthetic?? For my aged, tiny 1147??!?

Do you thrash it?
Do you do track days?
Are you going to drive it round Britain in a weekend?

If the answer is "no" to all three then just keep using 20W50 (or Penrite 20W60, which is my preferred oil for the Vitesse and Spitfire)

[Colin]

Ah ha! 

Well, I thrash around Hernia Bay a bit and up and down the Gannet Way . . . but no, none of those sensibly listed! 

20W60 sounds interesting. 

Thanks All. Interesting! 

Best,

C.

[Chris A]

For me it is a 'classic' formula 20/50 bought in a 30 litre drum direct from the manufacturer here. Oil and filter both changed annually, sadly I don't need to do it more often as I don't get the mileage in. 'Must try harder' as my school reports used to say 🙄

[Colin]

That's a great way to deal with it! 

I'll need more room to store a 30 gall drum! 

Best,

C.

[Chris A]

2 hours ago, Colin said:

That's a great way to deal with it! 

I'll need more room to store a 30 gall drum! 

Best,

C.

Mine is 30 LITRES, fits nicely on a shelf and has a handy tap, just like a beer barrel . . . . .

[Colin]

That sounds great!

Now . . . Competition for shelfspace . . .

Beer . . . or Oil?? 😁

[68vitesse]

Ordered 2x5Lt Dynolite 20/60 for my Vitesse from James Paddock, with other items, no surcharge for the weight and very well packed.

Regards

Paul.

[Iain T]

1 hour ago, Colin said:

Beer . . . or Oil?? 😁

Beer 🍺

Cheers

Iain