Steve Brown
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Posts posted by Steve Brown
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Hi Johny,
It should be a standard 3.27:1 diff, at least that's what I ordered. To be honest, apart from a couple of gentle rides around the block to get everything settled, I've not had chance to drive it with any "enthusiasm" yet. Been swapping the wheel studs for the LR Freelander beasts :-)
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On 18 June 2018 at 8:05 PM, trigolf said:
Hi Steve - the simple answer is yes you can. See my method, which works, below.
Gav.
I have a Mk2 Vitesse ( Rotoflex) and previously have removed/replaced the diff using a spring lifter several times in the past, but decided to try another way last time I did the job, as described below. It may sound complex, but is easier than it sounds and saves a lot of time. However, please do not attempt this method if you are in any doubt about your abilities.
Slightly loosen,the rear wheel nuts. Jack up the car under the diff and support on axle stands under the vertical links.Then remove the rear wheels. It's very important to position the axle stands directly under the wishbone's outer trunnion bolt 'tube' in the middle of the wishbone. Lower the car very carefully onto the stands, checking the final resting position of the wishbones on the stands ( As the spring takes the weight,it will tend to flatten out slightly, so constantly check the stands position until the cars' full weight is safely supported. Check and check again that the car is properly and firmly supported.
Remove the spring fixing access plate. Find a couple of bits of wood, about 2" x 2" x 3" ( from memory) Then position these on top of the spring, directly next to the the outer edges of the spring clamp plate. You should be able to 'fiddle' these blocks into position either through the spring clamp access hole and/or reaching into the tunnel. The idea is that the wood blocks should be a snug fit between the top leaf of the spring and the underside of the spring tunnel - to stop it moving up when you remove the spring clamp plate/nuts. Ensure that the blocks are firmly wedged in position. Then position the trolley jack under the diff to just take the weight, but no more, Do not allow it to jack the car off the axle stands. You can now remove the bolts/nuts from the halfshafts and rear propshaft flange. I found that I did not need to remove the exhaust pipe,but you might have to on a GT6.
Now you can gradually loosen and remove the spring clamp nuts and clamp plate. Then using the double nut locking technique unscrew the studs from the top of the diff. You can cover the stud holes with masking tape to stop dirt ingress into the diff. Then remove the diff mounting front and rear nuts/bolts.The diff is now ready to come out, by gently lowering the trolley jack. As I was doing the job on my own I also tied the diff with some strong rope, onto the trolley jack cradle to stop it sliding about. Note that the rotoflex couplings will be pressing inwards against the halfshaft flanges, so you will need to gently lever them apart with a large screwdriver or pry bar, whilst lowering the diff out.
Replacing the diff is largely the reverse operation, but ensure that the spring centering blind hole on the diff case locates properly with the spring fixing 'peg' on the underside of the spring.Refit the diff mounting nuts/bolts.Then refit the diff studs and spring clamp plate. Remove the wood blocks. Refit the spring access plate. Replace prop and halfshaft bolts/nuts. Don't forget to torque up all bolts/nuts. Have a cup of tea.
Hi Gav,
Thanks for this detailed advice.
After a long hot summer and a couple of other projects I finally found some time and patience to swap the diff on my Vitesse this weekend.
In summary I followed your instructions word for word and it worked like a breeze, no spring lifters required, and no movement of the spring.
Called in a couple of favours and borrowed 2 additional trolley jacks (including a heavy weight one for the diff) just to add a bit of additional safety under the chassis, see photo. The larger lifting plate on the heavy weight trolley jack was ideal for holding the diff at the required angle when re-installing, in fact I got it spot on and it went straight in (more by luck than judgement !!)
To confirm, if you can remove it, removing the exhaust on a Vitesse certainly aids with access.
An additional tip I came up with was to strap a crow bar on the radius arm to lift the drive shafts up and away from the diff, giving me more room to drop and replace the unit.
Just need to tidy up the diff paint and take it for a test drive, had the cup of tea ;-)
Couple of photos below
Thanks to you and everyone for their advice and comments !!
Steve
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Thanks all for your replies and the humour too
I'll hopefully be getting on with this in the next week or two and report back with photos of scuffed knuckles, dirty nails and hopefully even a swapped diff
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Thanks Mat
Is your method similar to Gav's or is there another approach to follow
Cheers
Steve
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Thanks Gav,
That sounds promising, I guess loosening all of the diff drive shaft bolts and mountings in advance would help reduce the faffing about. I'll take the exhaust off as it's quite new and easy to remove, looks like it'll give me a bit more room to get in there and less to bash my head against :-)
I'll give it a go, I'm reasonably confident, having done a fair few jobs on various "old heaps" in my time.
Thanks John,
I'm always up for a useful hint and will happily make a wooden dolly to enable a smoother refit
Cheers
Steve
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Thanks Pete, Clive,
I was hoping for a "sure you can do that" whilst expecting your replies
OK, so what is the best approach to dropping the diff, spring etc?
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Hi all,
I'm planning to swap out the rear diff on my 1969 Mk2 Vitesse, long story, don't ask.........
So, the first simple question - Can I remove it without dismantling the whole rear end set up (leaf spring etc)?
Secondly, any hints, tips, best order of removal, gotchas, and lessons learned regarding doing this?
Having read the various stories about the rear leaf spring and the fun that ensues refitting I'm hoping I don't have to enjoy that experience any time soon
Any help and advice gratefully received
Thanks in advance folks :-)
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Hi Pete,
Mine is a 1969 Vitesse Mk2, probably makes sense that its for the full beam flash, still scary that originally there were no fuses in the 2nd circuit. Mine now has plenty, all I need to do now is remember which fuse services which circuit. :-)
Thanks
Steve
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It's the retainer for the millboard that goes between the rear seat and the boot area. It bolts to the top of the rear spring tunnel.
Agree with Colin
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Hi,
Nearly completed the restoration of my Vitesse, new wiring loom included.
I've carried out one or two additions and modifications to the wiring and have set about updating my wiring diagram, so I don't forget what I've done later on........
Just noticed that there are two 12v feeds to the lighting system and can't work out why that would be.
There is one feed to the dashboard master light switch from the control box and one to the column switch from the fuse box
If I take either off, the lights still work (halogens fed by relays before you think I'm trying to burn out the thin wiring..)
Any ideas?
Also seems a bit daft that on the original, one is fused the other isn't
Thanks
Steve
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Hi Pete,
The drive gear head is identical on both units, I believe it is from a 6 cylinder as it rotates 2:1, 2 turns of the engine to 1 turn of the distributor
The correct drive shaft is 40mm long
The unit fitted post refurb is 35mm long
I have uncovered a few other issues with the standard of the work on both the engine and the chassis, the company involved seem to be gaining a reputation for less than reputable behaviour and service. There are others with similar issues coming to light, shame the Google reviews weren't there back in 2014 before I took my car to an engineering firm in Kent to be butchered
If anyone is thinking of using an Engineering company in that area it May be worth checking with me and Google first
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Well I now have the answer to my question, courtesy of me tracking down a 2 litre Mk2 distributor drive shaft and it arriving in the post today - 40mm!! not the 35mm that the dodgy engine refurb idiots left in there for me to seize the engine with.
So, I've fitted the new drive shaft, set up the static timing for the nth time this month - I reckon I could now do static timing blindfold - primed the oil pump, started the engine and straight up to 75psi in seconds - Magic, just like they're supposed to do.
Photo below showing the drive shaft that was fitted during the refurb and my replacement item.
So the question is what engine is the short one from?
Oh, and I wonder if the idiots have tried to fit a long one onto a different engine and had to work out why it won't fit
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Thanks Pete, Doug,
I think the bush is the original, unfortunately I didn't do the engine refurb, although I now wish I had - thank you less-than-reputable engineering company with the nice website.......
The current bush shows some signs of scoring/wear from where the drive gear has sat on it, the bush stands proud by a mm or so and nothing that would give me the 5mm extra I think I need.
Knowing that, I'm also reasonably content that the top area is correct as the pedestal sits nicely on top and the gear end float is as described in the workshop manuals
Now I suspect they've thrown some random 6cyl gear and shaft in when the engine was reassembled. Maybe from the Mk1 variants, I guess it possibly makes sense that there may be differing drive shaft lengths if there are different bushes?
Looking at the parts lists I need 126786, there's no markings on the current item so it's hard to confirm I have the correct one
Oil pump is brand new
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Hi again,
Thanks for the replies, to clarify
• I have swapped out the old oil pump for a brand new alloy higher capacity unit from Rimmers (the old unit shaft was slightly shorter so this one is at least as long as the original)
• After priming the pump it works if turned manually but not with the distributor drive gear in place
• The drive gear fits in the recess and sits on the bush below, the distributor pedestal then fits nicely on top (with end float shims of course)
• I've measured the drive gear and the distance to the oil pump shaft and there is a 5mm difference which explains why it won't pump any oil
• The drive gearing appears to be correct as it turns at half rate to the engine as per 6 cylinder
To explain I've created a couple of graphics as below
So I just need to know
• If I have the correct drive shaft or if I need to search out a correctly sized one from somewhere
• If anyone has a correct spare unit that they want to sell I'll happily take it off your hands
• Or if there is another issue that I haven't discovered that will rectify my problem
Thanks again
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Hi
I have a problem with my Vitesse 2litre engine and need to know what the length of the dizzy/oil pump drive shaft should be from the gear to the end of the shaft
The engine was rebuilt by a less than reputable (it turns out) company a while ago, came to fire it up a week or so ago and had no oil pressure. [obviously I won't mention their name here but as I have a CCJ against them already I guess they won't be too helpful if I ask them]
Swapped out the oil pump but to no avail, that was a fun job with the engine in situ.......
I've now measured the length of drive shaft required to reach the top of the oil pump drive and discovered it's approx 5mm greater than the dizzy/oil pump drive shaft that was fitted to the engine post rebuild.
I suspect they've put the wrong drive shaft and gear into the engine but as I have no original part to check against I can't be 100% sure and can't seem to find any dimension info on the web. Rimmers and Canleys are out if stock so can't get any detail from them either
I'll happily order a replacement part or try and source one from somewhere if it resolves the problem but don't want to waste any more time searching if I have the correct part
If anyone can help or advise I'd be most grateful
Thanks
Vit Mk2 Rear Diff Removal
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
So, the way I read it is as follows
Mk 1 Vitesse 1600 = 4.11:1 - Part No. 511350
Mk1 Vitesse 2000 = 3.89:1 - Part No. 518946
Mk2 Vitesse 2000 = 3.27:1 - Part No. 518950
Mine's a Mk2 2L with O/D, hence I went for the 3.27:1 which I presume is the factory spec version. Trouble is wherever I look there's a different view on reliability, suitability etc. I guess that's what makes the classic car world interesting ;-)