Jump to content

72928

Forum User
  • Posts

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

72928's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

0

Reputation

  1. Thanks for that. I think it has a fixed nipple but not sure without checking. It's a brand new cable and the pedal seemed OK-ish for one short drive if a bit stiff but now the noise has to be heard to be believed. Guess I'll take the cable out again and have a look. Pesky car!
  2. I've heard this about new cables. The cable looks like the old one apart from the end is slightly different and it was a pain to fit. How do you lubricate it? The guy I bought it off said you couldn't.
  3. Advice needed yet again (we'll get it sorted eventually). After loads of issues with carbs and electrics, hopefully now fixed, the latest seems to be the throttle. After replacing the throttle cable the throttle pedal was kind of stiff and notchy and started making a grinding noise when depressed. A few more depressions and now it literally screeches. The car was in the garage when this started, not in gear, just being revved to see if the revs were dropping back as they should. The noise is definitely coming from the area of the pedal under where the cable goes through the bodywork. Is it something I've done wrong when I replaced the cable or is it just another issue? I've read a lot about new throttle cables not being that great.
  4. It's some time since I posted this, and things have finally developed. After two (or possibly three) replacement rotor arms and a developing relationship with the AA the spitty finally died completely at around the same distance from home earlier this year following the same symptoms. However his time it wouldn't restart at al. The AA guy who came out took a look and said the rotor arm was shot and it was back home on a truck again. This time I bought a red rotor arm from the club, fitted that and it started straight away and behaved quite reasonably for the short trip out as a test and sounded far more positive. I also replaced the voltage stabiliser behind the dash which seemed to fix the non-working temperature and fuel gauges so it all seemed to be sorted out. Went out this weekend in the heat and everything seemed fine except that after about 10 miles or so the idle speed seemed to be sticking at about 1500 suddenly and there were a couple of hics but nothing bad. Out again the next day and the same thing happened, together with no temperature or fuel gauge, and suddenly the rev counter stopped working. They were OK again after a stop and cool down, then on the way home a coupe more hics and the revs went back up o 1500 on idle. I think the rotor arm may have sorted most of the original problem but what's going on now? We're back to high idling again and I'm starting to wonder if I'll ever be able to go anywhere. Any further suggestions very welcome. PS. Just bought a couple of new carb springs and cable in case they need replacing (the cable has a kink in it), plus a new oil filter.
  5. Thanks for the suggestions. With the coil, I've no idea what sort it should be. However, the one that was put on when the car was originally rebuilt worked fine for years until the problem developed last year and the same type was put on a replacement so I'm guessing its the right sort. I want to keep the car reasonably original so have never wanted to go down the electronic ignition route. I'll look at the distributor cap and rotor arm again though. I genuinely don't think its a breather problem for the same reason as above, its run excellently for years. Sticking choke's interesting and I've not heard of that one before so will look at it further if I can figure out what to do . This may not be relevant to the issue but the revs at idle used to stay quite high (about 1000rpm) but after everything done recently they are dropping down to round 600-ish and staying there. Thanks a lot. Any more advice welcome.
  6. Not sure if this is in the right topic but... Got a 75 Spitfire 1500. Its always been reliable bit over the last year it's had a problem which is stopping me using it. It starts fine, then after around 10 miles (sometimes more, sometimes less) it starts juddering and losing power. This progressively get worse until the engine stalls. After a while it will start again, then the same thing happens. Eventually I can manage to limp home, although there have been occasions when a breakdown truck has been needed. It's been in a garage a number of times with no verdict because it runs fine until hot. I thought it was getting sorted out after replacing the fuel lines and pump but it just went a bit further before the same story. The fuel lines have all been replaced, also the fuel pump and it has a new glass filter, plugs, points, HT leads, coil and condenser. The carbs have been refurbished and its been tuned, all to no effect. I've tried lifting the petrol cap in case its a vapour lock but there's no rush of air and no effect. Winter or summer temperatures makes no difference. It has had an electrical problem (an issue with the hazards switch), hopefully sorted today but, due to heavy showers I haven't ben able to try it out. Does anyone have any suggestions as I'm at my wits end and will soon be losing another summer's fun?
×
×
  • Create New...