badgerspitfire

Thanks Pete, so I do it by "feel" by backing off a flat or two. Working on classics is proving a real learning experience! On my more modern Saabs (now classics too) everything is wrenched up tight! I don't know how I'd manage without the kind advice you and others are offering on the site.

that really cheered me up this morning! Yep, I had to give it a bit of a whack to persuade it to budge!

Finally got it done. The first came off ok'ish. The second was stubborn and a marathon into near darkness tonight. Lots of tapping, heat, more hitting, and then in near desperation used another jack to put pressure on the bottom of the bolt while I tapped (and hit) around the outside of the housing. Then it finally gave in and popped out. Definitely using a splitter next time!

This is possibly a very dumb question, but I'm planning on changing the rotors tomorrow and the Haynes says I can check hub end float using a feeler gauge, but I honestly have no idea how to do it... Help appreciated. Also, any advice on front rotor replacement? I took the wheel off and my first reaction was, what the hell, I've never seen a system like that before (having only worked on post-90s cars previously!). I've got a manual but any tips and tricks would be very welcome.

It's the bit right at the end of the track rod (steering arm to wheels, the one you adjust for tracking I think, right at the end where it connects just behind disc back plate). I undid the bolt (underneath), but then it wouldn't knock out of the housing (needs to knock out vertically upwards). I think I am going to invest in the ball joint splitter you recommend!

Thanks guys! Good suggestions. I had to do more work on the Spitfire today, and when I put it back in the garage (where it is dark) I noticed the oil light was just working, but only a faint glow... like you said. I may try a different bulb and see if that helps.. Or buy 2 bulbs the same and fit them to the brake warning and oil sensor (so at least I rule out a different resistance issue). How hard is it to spilt the system like you said above?

The more work I do on the Spitfire, the more work I uncover! My green oil warning light doesn't illuminate at all. I've read that it is connected to the BRAKE warning spangle, and that glows a faint red. If I disconnect the oil pressure sensor the BRAKE warning light goes out (and oil light remains off), if I take the oil warning light bulb out of the housing, the BRAKE warning light goes out again until I put the bulb back. The bulb looks fine, and the fact that the BRAKE warning light appears to react suggests the bulb is ok too. I've changed the oil pressure sensor for a new one but the problem is still there. Open to suggestions please.

Ok, trying to get the track rod ends off. The nut comes off easily enough, and I've undone the locking nut on the steering side, but the track rod doesn't appear willing to come out of the housing. I've hit it a few times with a hammer but no luck. Grateful for any suggestions? Heat, or try to "jack" under the nut to push it out?

thanks chaps. DOT 4 it is!

Many thanks to both for your advice. Will post a pic when the Spitfire is up and running again!

Part of my many jobs this week on my Spitfire 1500 is replacing the track rod ends (both rubber boots split). Is it possible to do this, with careful measurement to a point on the arm, and avoid having to get it re-tracked afterwards, or is it not really successful. It's my first foray into track rod end replacement. Thanks

Thanks guys. That's great info to have and gives me confidence to tackle the job when the parts arrive, hopefully Thursday. While I'm doing so much bleeding of the system, is it worth trying the DOT 5 fluid (Automec) like what Rimmers sell? I've read conflicting reports on the internet. I was also just planning on changing it doing a massive bleed exercise, rather than much dismantling (unless I need to get inside the brake master cylinder to overhaul it - fingers crossed I don't). The car also pulls to the right on braking. Left caliper/disc cooler than the right side, so I'm guessing a problem front left. Going to change the caliper (and pads discs while I'm at it) and see what that brings. I've only got standard pads as replacement - should invest in a set of Mintex before going to that trouble? PS. What happened to the car in the photo 😮!

Many thanks for the detailed reply Pete, I've ordered new drums and shoes (the old drums didn't look the best) and will have a go at fitting them this week. Hopefully that will eliminate any drum issues. I'll look at those items as I work (though I might not be brave enough to remove the cylinder - this is my first 'classic' and very much learning as I go along). A couple of questions if that's ok: - Does hand brake cable holding the shoes open = shoes abeing held away from the drum? - Do I need to do the handbrake adjust procedure (disconnecting cable) for each wheel in turn? - Does trailing shoe = the one rearmost (ie nearer the rear of the car)? Many thanks again. Will rebleed for a 2nd time to make sure I am rid of the last of the glycol too.

Thanks. Will tighten them back up again and see if that improves things.

Thanks guys! I ought to add that I also readjusted the rear brake shoes today too. There were "catching" at part of the rotation (3/4 of rotation free, then grinding for last 1/4 against pads). Could readjusting the rears have changed the pedal feel?

Glad it is not just me!

It was all going well, gravity bleeding the brakes after changing the coolant. I then reached to top up the reservoir and bright green fluid came out of the bottle into the reservoir!!!! (the bottles of glycol and brake fluid looked identical). I ran round, shut off the bleed valve (rear right) then sucked out what I could with a turkey baster. Then I bled the rear right for ages (put about half a litre through). Then continued to bleed each wheel in turn, more than I normally would. The pedal feels "soft" now, it may be my imagination, or it could be some residual glycol in the system. Grateful for any advice how to get it out. Bleed again and put loads of fluid through? Many thanks. (Note to self: don't work on the car when tired / check bottles / don't be so stupid)