newm4npb

Thanks everyone. I'm wondering if there is a chemical reaction and whether it is something to do with the original reason for the first respray which was corrosion caused by salt spray getting through cracked paint. I stripped back the paint to metal and treated the corrosion with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 (I think), which I'd had good results with before. The patterns of blisters look suspiciously like where I applied it with a brush. Add in any remaining salt contamination and there's a whole chemistry set there! Anybody used Rustbuster's ChlorX salt remover and/or Custom 421 epoxy primer?

I hope the pictures attached this time! The primer was left for a day in the sunshine we had recently to cure, then wet and dry sanded and then dried again in the sunshine for a couple of days before spraying some test patches this time. Prime and paint bought via the Club Shop - so hopefully compatible.

Now on my third respray of my Spit bonnet top panel after paint has "micro-bubbled" yet again (see picture}. I've stripped back to metal and used club-bought etch primer and top coat. The primer flatted back fine and I used a guide coat to make sure no pinholes, but as soon as the top coat is sprayed on it "fizzes" - you can actually see tiny bubbles bursting on the surface. The weird thing is that when I flat back again it's the primer coat that looks like it has pimpled up (see other picture with 8mm spanner for scale). This is doing my head in! I've checked everything; the pressure is set right (compressor and paint gun), all the paint and thinners are new, there are two water separators in the air line, the paint is filtered, weather couldn't be better. I've successfully sprayed all the other panels, even the front wings, without any problem. What have I missed? I have read somewhere that too thin a primer coat might cause problems and wonder if I've flatted the primer back too much. Help!