iani
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Posts posted by iani
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1 hour ago, AidanT said:
If I can work out a way to take the box out to, is it just a case of unbolting the prop and the box support bracket (+ speedo cable clutch save. .....) ???
Is it really easier??
Aidan
obviously remove the gear lever too, but yes, it really is much easier to take both out together.
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32 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
think thats a good view , with a light right foot with increased power with a limited drive line
keep it happy
Pete
Not sure I see the point in fitting a more powerful engine if you aren't going to use it though, a standard GT6 is no slouch after all 😃
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My shaft is being sent away for materials analysis, it will be interesting to see what they find.
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
<snip>
the latest spate of shaft failures seem to be swing axle + CV with only a single row ball race
Pete
My car has a swing spring Pete.
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8 minutes ago, KevinR said:
Theoretically, it can happen to ANY car, not just Triumphs.
Unfortunately it is rather too prevalent on the "Small Chassis" Triumphs where the drive shaft itself is also one of the suspension arms, as they are very highly stressed.
The drive shafts on Rotaflex (and CV conversion) cars are not part of the suspension, so the failure is unlikely to occur (but not impossible)
I have seen a Stag CV shaft that has sheared in the same manner as my car’s modern UJ shaft.
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1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said:
looks like this drive shaft upgrade to CV joints is going in the headache must have file ???
the orig shafts were known to fatigue crack if you reversed the rotation memory in the shaft but these CV failures are all
pretty new units ....fit for purpose seems questionable
Having previously rejected two sets of CDD CV shafts for my TR6, I elected for their uprated UJ shafts on the GT6. I have sent pics & a video showing the bearing hasn't seized to CDD, will see how they respond.
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1 hour ago, Steve P said:
Exact same for me on the 2012 RBRR, overtaken by my back wheel as we went up a hill near Lands End, sheared in the same place. Still have the shaft as a souvenir but the car now has Jones/Bowler CV`s. Car skidded to the verge on the wheelbarrow exhaust, no other damage but an 8 hour recovery back to Surrey with the AA.
Steve
Mine was a 4 week recovery Steve, Euro breakdown cover isn't always very good.
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Here's what happened to my car:
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Not difficult to remove a GT6 gearbox from inside the car with the engine still in place, remove the passenger seat and remove via that footwell.
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I realise that this thread is five years old, however, I thought it very relevant to a recent experience I have had in my Mk1 GT6. Having heard of issues with shafts shearing and with my car putting out a fair bit more power than standard, I decided to fit a pair of CDD shafts.
It is worth noting that the spec' of these shafts isn't the same as that on this thread, CDD are now using EN24 but the hardness process isn't listed. My shafts have been on the car for a couple of years and have less than 8k miles on them.
My shaft sheared in France and it took four weeks for the car to be repatriated, I have collected the broken shaft from the garage sorting the issues out for me, the bearing is free, there is no sign of blueing on the shaft, it has sheared a couple of mm from the inner end of the woodruff key slot.
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How has this progressed in the last year?
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16 hours ago, johny said:
Let us know the outcome as the sign of a good company is how they deal with issues....
Alasdair Southall's customer service is exemplary, I had bought my shafts from Rimmers, when I had the issues I contacted Alasdair & Rimmers via email, who do you think responded first?
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16 hours ago, Puglet1 said:
Hmm. This leaves me in a quandary. I was thinking about buying a pair of CV’s in the near future.
What alternatives are left?I went with CDD's uprated standard shafts.
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5 hours ago, trigolf said:
Iani, when you say noisy, what do you mean exactly?
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I rejected two sets of CDD CV shafts due to their being noisy, I now use CDD uprated standard shafts on my GT6, I used their uprated sliding spline shafts on my TR6 previously.
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8 hours ago, johny said:
Nice, and will add some value to the car👍
That's interesting, I had a Britax roof fitted to an e-type, it had exactly the opposite effect on the value there.
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8 hours ago, mark powell said:
Looked at them. Are you happy with them? I would have to stitch these on myself, as SWMBO has arthritic fingers..
I will be buying a third one for the Formula wheel on my GT6 at some point, I'm happy enough with them. The TR one its showing some signs of wear but it prob has c.10k miles on it.
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17 minutes ago, mark powell said:
I've done that on the same wheel fitted to my Midge. However, I feel it looks too 'chunky' and want to revert to the original stitched look. Modern steering wheel covers seem to be made for modern 'fat' wheels.
I have fitted two covers, one to my TR6 & one to an L322 Range Rover, both came from the same source - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154015835338?hash=item23dc0f24ca:g:f2YAAOSwKaVfFy1Q&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8PXRdLzT16VAFtfU%2Bndrq68vbPa9P6cJ11yMwixKwUxQvYlBGbZlUeFkBQv5pJgz14zwVleRv4%2Fq%2BhJigsckyhSYew09jA6U24ZJ19JF5H3mRyb%2FHGdJS8gy7QENjlp%2Bhhc1L9Q1S%2Fb%2BmwVSlGhIjhGvO1X3%2BQJsAztf%2BZrdgNe0vYk7eUu9u5RcYnwAjrjlrVzo0qauRdkfVKWGe5IryPLH%2FcxpRVD2HOFcjx7VwHsKa6dN8GNeKYcSWBMA07POBLRBN%2F%2B3sTkjzQ2oJEUeOSPIFaq09x0i6eMTQpfeUPaCRxFJHcLuaNgj4iZYAMB4rA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMzvWao5ph my wife sewed them on without any difficulty.
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E-type S1/S2 diaphragms will fit, I've just had my Mk1 seats retrimmed with them fitted. They are slightly shorter than GT6 diaphragms but will fit and easily available.
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28 minutes ago, rogerguzzi said:
Hello All
I think a bit OTT unless you are racing or have a very powerful engine but then the diff would break!
Roger
I bought them as I'm a fan of Alasdair Southall's work, I have his uprated sliding spline shafts on my TR6, I also have his hubs & drop links fitted. When I decided to update my GT6 I wanted to remove weak points, the CDD shafts seemed a sensible choice, mated to my blackline LSD 3.63 diff & Sprint OD Gearbox. They are expensive but so was replacing all standard parts with new, I am confident in the quality of CDD components, I haven't always felt the same about standard stuff.
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Just now, Roger said:
Thanks for your feed-back iani. Just to make sure: with "uprated standard" you mean these shafts from CDD?
Yes, this is what I have fitted.
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I have CDD uprated shafts on both my TR6 & GT6, I tried two sets of the CV version on the TR but they weren't right, bearing noise on both sets, went for uprated standard and very happy with them.
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4 hours ago, 68vitesse said:
With an engine hoist you have to remove the bonnet, from John's and my pictures we leave the bonnet on the car. No bonnet storage problems with the big plus you don't have to disconnect all the wiring to the front lights.
I welded a big nut to the load leveller in place of the handle and use a battery impact driver to adjust the angle of the engine as it is removed.
Regards
Paul.
Not quite correct Paul, you can certainly remove the engine in a GT6 with an engine hoist without removing the bonnet, it's all a matter of getting the angle right. I have the hoist legs going under where the N/SF wheel would be (removed), raise & separate engine, then angle hoist and withdraw engine so that it passes over the battery, doesn't go near the bonnet or it's stay.
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Get yourself a length of 3mm brass rod, cut it half way through at normal pin length, you then push the rod into the hole and snap it off when it's in, much easier.
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Mintex Pads
in Braking System
Posted
If you get the metric ones it's straightforward enough to drill the holes larger to take the imperial pins.