iani

If you get the metric ones it's straightforward enough to drill the holes larger to take the imperial pins.

obviously remove the gear lever too, but yes, it really is much easier to take both out together.

Not sure I see the point in fitting a more powerful engine if you aren't going to use it though, a standard GT6 is no slouch after all 😃

My shaft is being sent away for materials analysis, it will be interesting to see what they find.

My car has a swing spring Pete.

I have seen a Stag CV shaft that has sheared in the same manner as my car’s modern UJ shaft.

Having previously rejected two sets of CDD CV shafts for my TR6, I elected for their uprated UJ shafts on the GT6. I have sent pics & a video showing the bearing hasn't seized to CDD, will see how they respond.

Mine was a 4 week recovery Steve, Euro breakdown cover isn't always very good.

Here's what happened to my car:

Not difficult to remove a GT6 gearbox from inside the car with the engine still in place, remove the passenger seat and remove via that footwell.

I realise that this thread is five years old, however, I thought it very relevant to a recent experience I have had in my Mk1 GT6. Having heard of issues with shafts shearing and with my car putting out a fair bit more power than standard, I decided to fit a pair of CDD shafts. It is worth noting that the spec' of these shafts isn't the same as that on this thread, CDD are now using EN24 but the hardness process isn't listed. My shafts have been on the car for a couple of years and have less than 8k miles on them. My shaft sheared in France and it took four weeks for the car to be repatriated, I have collected the broken shaft from the garage sorting the issues out for me, the bearing is free, there is no sign of blueing on the shaft, it has sheared a couple of mm from the inner end of the woodruff key slot.

How has this progressed in the last year?

Alasdair Southall's customer service is exemplary, I had bought my shafts from Rimmers, when I had the issues I contacted Alasdair & Rimmers via email, who do you think responded first?

I went with CDD's uprated standard shafts.

I rejected two sets of CDD CV shafts due to their being noisy, I now use CDD uprated standard shafts on my GT6, I used their uprated sliding spline shafts on my TR6 previously.

That's interesting, I had a Britax roof fitted to an e-type, it had exactly the opposite effect on the value there.

I will be buying a third one for the Formula wheel on my GT6 at some point, I'm happy enough with them. The TR one its showing some signs of wear but it prob has c.10k miles on it.

I have fitted two covers, one to my TR6 & one to an L322 Range Rover, both came from the same source - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154015835338?hash=item23dc0f24ca:g:f2YAAOSwKaVfFy1Q&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8PXRdLzT16VAFtfU%2Bndrq68vbPa9P6cJ11yMwixKwUxQvYlBGbZlUeFkBQv5pJgz14zwVleRv4%2Fq%2BhJigsckyhSYew09jA6U24ZJ19JF5H3mRyb%2FHGdJS8gy7QENjlp%2Bhhc1L9Q1S%2Fb%2BmwVSlGhIjhGvO1X3%2BQJsAztf%2BZrdgNe0vYk7eUu9u5RcYnwAjrjlrVzo0qauRdkfVKWGe5IryPLH%2FcxpRVD2HOFcjx7VwHsKa6dN8GNeKYcSWBMA07POBLRBN%2F%2B3sTkjzQ2oJEUeOSPIFaq09x0i6eMTQpfeUPaCRxFJHcLuaNgj4iZYAMB4rA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMzvWao5ph my wife sewed them on without any difficulty.

E-type S1/S2 diaphragms will fit, I've just had my Mk1 seats retrimmed with them fitted. They are slightly shorter than GT6 diaphragms but will fit and easily available.

I bought them as I'm a fan of Alasdair Southall's work, I have his uprated sliding spline shafts on my TR6, I also have his hubs & drop links fitted. When I decided to update my GT6 I wanted to remove weak points, the CDD shafts seemed a sensible choice, mated to my blackline LSD 3.63 diff & Sprint OD Gearbox. They are expensive but so was replacing all standard parts with new, I am confident in the quality of CDD components, I haven't always felt the same about standard stuff.

Yes, this is what I have fitted.

I have CDD uprated shafts on both my TR6 & GT6, I tried two sets of the CV version on the TR but they weren't right, bearing noise on both sets, went for uprated standard and very happy with them.

Not quite correct Paul, you can certainly remove the engine in a GT6 with an engine hoist without removing the bonnet, it's all a matter of getting the angle right. I have the hoist legs going under where the N/SF wheel would be (removed), raise & separate engine, then angle hoist and withdraw engine so that it passes over the battery, doesn't go near the bonnet or it's stay.

Get yourself a length of 3mm brass rod, cut it half way through at normal pin length, you then push the rod into the hole and snap it off when it's in, much easier.