Pete GT6

I was wondering if anyone can tell me if are there any other differences between the GT6 mk2 and mk3 engines other than the; rocker cover, crank case ventilator, smiths emissions valve, oil filler cap, vacuum piping and Carb change stated in the John Thomason book - guide to originality? Are the rest of the engine internals, pistons, conrods, bearings, block and head the same and intercompatable? Guess what i am asking is could you make a mk3 engine into a mk2 and visa versa with just a rocker cover/ head change? Also are exhaust manifolds different? Thanks Pete

Thanks Clive, I will have a look for the stamped number on the gearbox. I didnt realise there was one. Also my commission number doesn't have any O or o's in the number prefix or not. So this answers the question. Thanks for your help.

Hi guys, Trying to find out if the gearbox number for my car is correct and if it is/was an overdrive unit. (There is no over drive on there now.) Number on the casing is 15c3 8 Thanks Pete

Aidan - you weren't wrong on them being hard to find! I rung around all the breakers and suppliers I could find, I was told by most, they haven't broken a GT6 mk1 or mk2 in years! However.. Clive - Thank you for your contact advice of Chic Doig, they had one of everything I needed! Pedal scuttle plate and all pedals, brake master plate, dash rear facia panel, passenger foot plate, battery box and steering column bracket. So I bought the lot as they seem to be as rare as rocking horse doo doo. Just a new wiring loom and steering rack, but both of these will be new when it comes to it. Pete

The fuse box as I found it! Can you spot what's wrong..

John, thanks for your comments. I agree with the methodical approach, bolts back in original holes is my approach, I was an engineer for nearly 10 years so follow the same approach. I'm not too keen to try the engine, as there would be quite alot of work required to get it going again and I want to fully rebuild it anyway. It's only sat on the engine mounts and literally all wiring is just ends hanging every where, carbs would need a strip and rebuild, new dizzy & ht leads, radiator isn't connected etc etc. Also risk damaging things if anything major is wrong such as big ends etc. New wiring and extra fuses sounds good to me, will do some searching as you suggest. I will post a picture of the fuses on the car currently, it will make you laugh! AidanT - of all the bits for a conversion I had thought of, the dash facia panel I thought would be easy to get hold of from an old RHD... O dear! Do they unbolt or are they welded? I've only had 2days of the car at home to poke about before I had to put it In off site storage in order to keep it dry and remain rust free etc as my current garage has my RB5 in it. So havent been able to investigate these things. I need to build another garage before restoration can commencement. I will give the likes of Quiller a ring, someone must have a RHD facia panel around. Does anyone have any answers on the mk1 front end I have on a mk2? And can you tell if the front bumper mounts are for the mk1 or mk2 style chrome bumper. The car came with a mk 3 front bumper in the pile of bits, which obviously doesn't fit and also what I think are the lower mounting brackets for a mk1 bumper (bent flat bar with holes in) but think the mounts from the bonnet are for a mk2? So I'm understandabley a little confused as to which it's suposed to be. Thanks all

Pete Lewis - thanks for the info on the build data certificate. And photo posting. John Bonnet - Interesting comment on being 30% premium for LHD in europe, not something I had considered. I don't think selling would be an option once I have sunk all the time and effort into it, but something still to bear in mind. Clive - that is a very valuable bit of info if I do go for a RHD conversion. I will have a search. Does anyone know of any TSSC member who has converted LHD TO RHD? DoughGT6 - as you can now see fro. The photos, it will probably be easier for me to rip out the wiring loom and all electrics and start again! Trying to gauge how much work is involved and if anyone has done it before to try and avoid as many unforseen as possible. Or just leave it a lefty. Now is prime option opportunity as the car is completely stripped. Thanks all for your help so far.

Everyone likes pictures!

Hello all! I'm Pete, a new member of TSSC and of a 1969 GT6+, for full nut and bolt restoration. I have a few questions before I start any work and I wondered if people would be so kind to help answer them? A bit of background. I have wanted a classic restoration project since a young boy at 13, when I helped a friend of the family restore a Austin Healey 3000, which then won many local shows, which I accompanied. 16years on I am now In a position to purchase my first classic project. Having settled on a GT6 mk 1 or 2 project to, I found the UK cars to be few and far between and also very rotten! So when an imported US one came up from a dry state that had been Sat for 15 years, with only one rust hole in the battery box, I was all over it. Now for my questions; -Has anyone converted a left hand drive to right before? If so was it worth it from a driving pleasure perspective, and how much hassle was it to carry out. From what I can see, the steering rack is a pretty straight forward change to RHD, just a new hole through the fire wall and bracket for steering collum. Change of dash and all gauges etc (they are all stripped out of the car when I bought it), unbolt and change to UK pedal box as I believe the accelerator pedal is a different shape from research? Cut out and weld in new battery box on the opposite side, mount new pedal box and connect up. - The car appears to be in original condition, all worn paint colour etc matches throughout the car, but it has a Mk1 style front end (no side vents on front wings and the triumph / logo in centre of bonnet, round indicator lights at front, but the mounting brackets for the chrome bumper from what I can find on the net are the mk2 style, can anyone confirm? (I am missing the front bumper and valance so harder for me to tell. I have read about change over years and parts being used up from mk1s and fitted to mk2s. Is this true or an Internet myth? -How do you post pictures on the forum? Then I can upload some photos, which will make descriptions and answers easier. -Is there a way of telling if the engine number matches the original chassis / commission number? Is there a register somewhere of all triumph build numbers, with detail of all chassis, commission, engine numbers etc? Thanks Pete