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aggie

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Posts posted by aggie

  1. Kangaroo

    in Engine

    Posted

    Okay, so here's an update.  I have two fuel filters, one in the boot close to the tank and one just before the fuel pump, neither show any sign of debris.  Fuel pump is working fine, good strong delivery.  There was no appreciable debris in the float chambers but the front needle valve appeared to stick intermittently so I have renewed them both.  Carb pistons operate smoothly.  I changed the spring on the accelerator arm for a much stronger one and, guess what,  IT'S WORSE THAN EVER !!!    to the point of being uncontrollable.  I'm close to giving up on this, anybody got any further suggestions. O, the only things I haven't changed are the piston return springs, but I wouldn't have thought they would make that much difference.

    Alun.

  2. Kangaroo

    in Engine

    Posted

    4 hours ago, DanMi said:

    do you have the return spring from the throttle arm down to the chassis. I find that mine jumps if this is not present

     

    2 hours ago, Ian Foster said:

    Do not discount a blockage in the fuel line...ask me how I know!

    I do have a return spring from the arm to the chassis but I'm sure it's not OE.  It's one I got from Rimmers and is the same as the return springs on the throttle stops.  I reckon it should be stronger but, naybe I'm wrong.

    Ian, I think I know how you know !

  3. Kangaroo

    in Engine

    Posted

    20 hours ago, johny said:

    yes agree with Doug. Fuel needed without load is minimal so will rev fine when static but flow not enough for driving especially acceleration. You could test the pump by pumping fuel into a jar which should produce good squirts unless its non return valves have failed.... 

    Thanks Johnny will try this.

    Alun

  4. Kangaroo

    in Engine

    Posted

    21 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

    If you're happy with the timing, sounds like fuel starvation,  not enough fuel getting through.. So fuel blockage, dodgy pump? Do you have a fuel filter? The dread rubber slivers blocking inlet valves?

    Doug

     

    Timing should be ok.  I've tried electronic distributor and points with the same result so will check the issues that you have raised.

    Thanks, Alun.

  5. Kangaroo

    in Engine

    Posted

    I have a strange problem with my MK 1 Spitfire.  After a rebuild lasting quite a number of years and many setbacks ( not unusual ) I have finally taken to the road only to be hugely disappointed. When accelerating, especially in 2nd gear, it lurches forward ( rapidly ) and then dies down and again and again.  Engine has been completely rebuilt, carburetters have new jets, needles, throttle rods,discs, float needles and jets.  I have spent hours tuning them and she will tick over sweetly and rev to the limit as long as she is sitting in the garage.   We drove this car for many years for 100010 miles  all across Europe and never missed a beat, now I can barely make it to the roundabout a mile down the road.  Only thing I haven't tried is a stronger return spring on the accelerator arm. I'm beginning to think that she is scared of going back to the road !  Any ideas please.

  8. SU carbs misbehaving

    in Fuel System

    Posted

    Hello all, I have just completed a service on the SU carbs on my TR4A including new jets, needles and throttle spindles.  She started okay but will not run below 2000 rpm despite the fact that the idle adjusting screws are backed right off and the throttle discs appear to be fully closed.  Tick over was always a bit fast but I thought that a good service would remedy this.  No such luck !  Any ideas please.

  9. Superpro bushes.

    in Chassis, Suspension & Steering

    Posted

    I have just, nearly, completed a rebush of my Mk1 spitfire using Superpro. I say nearly because I have, so far, failed after a number of attempts to fit the two steering rack bushes.  The poly bushes are 2 to 3 mm wider than the rubber ones and also slightly deeper.  I know that things squish down when tightened but the fact that they are wider puts the U clamp out of position with the holes.   Can the locating plates be repositioned to compensate for this ?  I don't want to alter anything without being sure as I might mess up the steering geometry.  Help please.

  10. Car covers.

    in General

    Posted

    Hello and good morning to you all.  Has anyone out there purchased an indoor car cover from Hamiltons as shown in the Club Shop catalogue ?  If so, what are they like as in, does it fit snugly, is it really good quality,etc.  I bought one from Ritchwood for my TR but it wasn't a particularly good fit and is quite thin.  Fortunately it was a good fit for the MX5 so I kept it. Let me know please.

  17. Leaf spring again.

    in Chassis, Suspension & Steering

    Posted

    When I stripped down the rear suspension on my Mk1 Spitfire I decided to buy a new leaf spring. I now regret that decision as, compared to the old one,  it looks and feels cheap and nasty.  So, I would like to renovate my old one  but having not done this before I don't really know how to begin.  Do I have to dismantle the spring completely to change the isolators ?  I guess that I really should in order to clean and repaint the leaves but, is it necessary.  Also I notice that, having removed the old rubber bushes at either end there is a steel sleeve which is too narrow to take the new Superpro polyurethane bushes.  The new spring does not have these sleeves and neither does it have any isolators.  Any info on the process would be gratefully received.  Thanks

  20. Spitfire drive shaft.

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    So Pete (Lewis), is what you are saying that I should fit the main ballrace to the trunnion housing on the bench, fit the backplate and outer seal, then place it on the shaft as far as the bearing allows and push it into position by screwing on the wheel hub ?

    Thanks Peter for reminder about the inner seal.

  21. Spitfire drive shaft.

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    Okay, so I have taken your advice and obtained a new halfshaft from TDF, stripped the old one and started to reassemble.  The Workshop Manual says that, once you have fitted the needle roller bearing and oil seal to the bearing housing, to then pass the shaft through the housing and the drift the ballrace onto the shaft and into the housing.  Now, here's my concern :- once you start to drift the race into the housing you will be tending to drive the housing further along the shaft and perhaps damage the needle roller and or oil seal.  Surely it would be better to fit the ballrace into the housing on the bench and then drift the housing onto the shaft.  Your comments please.

  22. Spitfire drive shaft.

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    Hello all, I have a problem with the yoke on one of the driveshafts on my Mk 1 Spitfire in that the hole into which the U/J bearing cap fits has become oversized.  The Workshop Manual says that the shafts are not repairable but I'm betting that someone out there has replaced the yoke on a halfshaft ?  If so does anyone have a spare yoke that they would be willing to sell me ?

  24. New soft top

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    • Thanks both, think I'll try to open up the gap first before removing the rail although that would, probably, be a better solution.  I know it's only pop rivets but I recall that it took me a long time to pluck up the courage to put it back on in the first place!  Wish me luck.

  25. New soft top

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    Thanks for that, unfortunately the gap is so tight that the hood only goes about halfway.  I'm just wondering if there is some way to maybe prise it open a little.  The thought of taking off the header and replacing it doesn't really appeal to me.

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