Paul West

Hi all, The problem was the fuse holder. I removed and put back the fuses and the car started and ran first time. I suspected this because of the earlier problems I had with it. Chinese made no doubt of poor quality clips. I will contact Autosparks but expect that there is little they can (will) do as the fuse holder is part of the loom. Top money paid for it so to expect it to work properly isn’t too much to ask. Rgds Paul

Thanks everyone. Put the car back together after a rebuild and used a new Autosparks loom and have had real trouble with the fuse box ( terrible quality). The top spring loaded fuse holder keeps failing so that the windscreen washer motor and headlight flash work intermittently. I have no faith in the unit (as explained to Autosparks who seemed surprised at the failure) and will bypass it by the installation of a proper fuse box by an auto electrician. The earlier mention of the fuse box reminded me of it’s poor quality so I will start by removing and replacing the fuses to hopefully achieve a better connection and then, if ok, track down the fault. Thankyou everyone for your helpful replies. Rgds Paul

Hi all, The car stops running when I release the ignition key. Fires up but then dies. Plenty of fuel so must be electrical but what? Is anyone familiar with this problem and if so, all suggestions gratefully received. Many thanks Paul West

Rob, I changed the double bullet connector from reverse switch to loom to two singles and this has worked as well. Reversing lights now work by selecting reverse only so problem solved. Thank you so much for your patience and help as I really couldn’t have done it without you. Here’s hoping all’s now ok Paul

Have changed the double bullet connector in the photo to two single ones and................no buzzing. Your suspicion of the two yellows shorting could be the problem. I won’t know the o/d works until I have repaired/ replaced the o/d gear knob switch so here’s hoping. The reversing lights are still on though so if you can shed any light (no pun intended) on this I’d be grateful. They come on on second key phase.

Rob, My mistake. The buzzing stopped as I put the yellow/purple wire on the wrong relay spade and connected to one just above the brown when doing earlier test so probably why solenoid clicked when putting +ve lead on to battery. Back to buzzing again. Attached is the double bullet connector between relay and gearbox end. Should I change this as could be Chinese poor quality? Will do the light test later Paul P.S. Could the smoking yesterday be related to the spade on the wrong relay pin?

Thanks Rob. I am so grateful for your help as I have no electrical experience at all and am trying to quickly understand the process. I put in the dash wires from photos but the rest installed by an experienced TSSC member. I shall borrow a light and complete your test as directed and get back to you. The buzzing has stopped but should there be a click when attaching the +ve lead to the +ve terminal.? That seems a new development but can’t be absolutely sure the relay did buzz on key turn as I was in the car but I will recheck. The damage to the gearstick switch looks minimal so could snip an inch from the wire and re solder, likewise the bullet end unless you think it’s had it. Many thanks for all your help, I am really grateful for your time and knowledge. Paul

Sorry Rob, have just seen your earlier post. Will try that tomorrow but how and where could I make a better earth? This is assuming I haven’t caused serious damage

An update. Relay and solenoid both click when yellow/purple touches positive battery terminal. So they both work. I checked all bullets and tried again. Audible click when touching positive battery lead on terminal with ignition off. Switched ignition on, put in 4th, flicked o/d in and smoke came from gearstick switch and bullets. Power therefore to switch but maybe the switch was faulty. I’m just clutching at straws now as I followed wiring diagrams (including Colin’s) to the letter and it’s a new Autosparks loom. Reversing lights still on all the time.

Ignition on, in neutral, a buzz/rattle from relay that makes you want to switch off immediately. Pulled green/purple off, buzz stops. Put back on, pulled green/ yellow wire off, buzz stops. Noticed rev lights on by chance so couldn’t say when but pulled bullets off with tubes on the gearbox loom.

Yes, brown wire direct to relay, relay buzzes. Connect brown wire to fuse then relay, no buzz. This is on second stage of key turn. Checked 5 amp fuse and had blown but put in a 25 amp one and relay buzzes. Pulled white wire off, no buzz. Found the bullet connectors on loom for rev lights. Disconnected bullets, lights still on.

Just tried again and new relay buzzes but with 5amp fuse fitted it doesn’t. No click on either. Took out servo to access relays and just bolted it all back. Aargh. I’ll work my way back from Rev light switch to find bullets.

Contacted the battery positive with relay yellow/purple and heard a definite click. I’ve replaced the old relay as the car has been laid up for 30 years and it probably protested but the buzzing had stopped anyway. I’ll remove the 5amp fuse. It was a recommendation from Triumph experience as a safety feature (US website). Reversing lights on even when I’ve disconnected the spades (green and green/brown wires)!

Here are some photos so hope these are better than my drawing.

Hi all, this is the wiring so hope this helps. Paul

Hi all, the reversing lights are on even when I pulled off the spades to the unit! Could it be that the switch is stuck on and registers permanently? Scratching my head now and beginning to think that I should have renewed the solenoid when the box was out of the car as, if the sol is faulty, looks a bugger to get out now. Two steps forward, one step back! Any ideas folks? Tried the horn and that relay works fine so o/d one may be ok. Paul

Hi all, Switched on again and relay still buzzing. Engine off, put it into 4th and flicked o/d on. Buzzing stopped but heard no click so not sure if it works or not. Will buy a new relay and try and trace the fault but by the way reversing lights are still on all the time. Rgds paul

Thanks everyone. I replaced the bullet (white wire) with a spade and connected to ignition term 3. Term 2 for the brown and put in a 5 amp fuse where instructed but when switched on the relay is buzzing. Is it kaput or have I done something wrong. I suspect it’s me as the reversing lights are now permanently on as well. Any help gratefully received. Paul

Thanks Pete., will do. Rgds Paul

Hi all, What is the best way to rivet the bottom hole on the quarterlight on a GT6 mk3? My rivet gun is angled by the body and I can’t get a decent fit on it so does anyone know if there is there an extension piece I could buy to fit the gun end? rgds Paul

Thanks Colin, I have a bulkhead relay with the brown, white, and the two yellow wires. The yellows are bullet connected to their relevant wires but am I right in thinking that the brown piggyback wire replaces the existing brown in the ignition switch (and thus connects both)? The confusion I have is although there is a white wire in the ignition switch, the white on the new loom is a bullet connector and not a spade. Is this then not fitted into the ignition switch, and if not, where and to what is it connected? Paul

Hi all, the problem I had was I’d pulled all the wires off the existing spades leaving me with little reference. Have finally completed what I can and am installing the overdrive wiring but am not sure where the white wire (bullet connector) connects in the ignition? I assume the brown wire (a piggyback) goes on to the existing ignition terminal. Am I right on this and why is there a bullet connector? rgds Paul

Thanks John, I’ll have a look but have noticed that the new bulb holders don’t match the originals either so not sure which bulbs I should buy, and from where. I’d like green led ones if poss. I have sought auto electricians online but all work with diagnostics and not old cars. Rgds Paul

Hi all, Am rebuilding the car, body off and all structural work now finished but have reached a full stop. I’ve purchased a new loom from Autosparks and have removed the old one after taking lots of photos of the original connections. I have got so far but as the new colours don’t match the originals in all respects I am reluctant to continue as my electrical knowledge is really limited and don’t want to do anything silly or dangerous so could I ask if anyone would be willing/able to finish the rewire for cash? I live near Banstead in Surrey (postcode CR5) All the best (here’s hoping) Paul Many thanks Paul West