chris.eg

I couldn't get any water to come out of the drain plug on the block (assuming of course that I got the right bolt...) I flushed everything else with a hose until clean water was coming out and have refilled with water and washing soda. It only took about 4 pints though, presumably because there was a fair bit of water still left in the block 😕 Hopefully if I leave the soda in for a bit it'll unblock things some more and water will drain from the block...The colour of the water that came out of the heater was something to behold! However, it's still not working When the engine is warm the hose going into the heater (via the valve) gets warm but the one form the heater back to the manifold and engine stays cool. I don't understand this as water was flowing freely through the heater with the hose. Other things I need to do are to replace the distributor cap (I think) as the contacts inside look very pitted and horrible. Also, worryingly, the engine mounts look desperately in need of replacement.

I thought it was supposed to be purple?

Found some soda, so I'll give that a go perhaps tomorrow. The heater is not really working at all so I think there's more of a problem than the engine just not running particularly hot. I'll have a good look at the heater valve when I drain the coolant as I suspect that at the moment... In other news, the car has been starting fine lately (perhaps the warmer weather) but I'm thinking there are probably a few questionable bits of wiring on the car...

In that case I'll probably just flush it thoroughly, check the heater valve and look into getting one of those thermometers for peace of mind I'm struggling to find a supply of washing soda that is significantly cheaper than Speedflush from Halfords so may just go with that.

The flap on mine moves extremely easily too, so no idea really why it's snapped off (although now I think about it, I haven't checked the passenger side flap so perhaps that's the issue) Re the flushing procedure you mentioned, I'll give that a go and check the heater valve to see if that's the problem. While it's drained I'll take the thermostat out to check that too. Is it possibe to test the temperature sender in hot water with a multimeter? My gauge has still never reached half...

Is this better than a special flushing product? Or just a cheaper option? If I go that route, roughly how much should I use?

It certainly does look a fun place to work... On mine, the attachment for the cable to the end of that lever is broken off. The bit I'm not sure about is that (if I'm remembering correctly) there was another cable coming from somewhere else that looked like it was supposed to be attached too. I think I probably need to go and have another look...

I haven't checked yet if my heater valve is working but will bear that in mind if it isn't. The thing that is definitely not working is the lever at the bottom end of the cable which controls direction. It's attached to the bottom of a box (which I assume contains the heater matrix) in the drivers footwell. If anyone can take one, a picture of how that's supposed to look would be really helpful as I hope I can repair it somehow rather than replacing. The other thing I spotted in that area is a big split in the tube which I think takes air from that box to the defroster on that side. I'm not sure if the coolness of the air is due to the heater valve, the heater matrix being blocked up or the fact the engine isn't getting hot enough but that seems unlikely as it's certainly not cold!

My heater seems fairly ineffective too, which I'm sure is due in part to a couple of broken parts I've found, but the air doesn't seem as warm as I'd expect either. I'm thinking I might drain the coolant, replace (unless they're possible to test in water with a multimeter) the temperature sensor, check the thermostat, flush the heater and then refill. Is there anything else I should be checking/doing at the same time?

Oddly, I just went back to the car, poked the wire from the sender started the car and the lamp went off as I would expect. I then disconnected the wire to see what would happen and the light stayed off. What would be likely to have caused such a short lived problem? Not sure if I should be concerned or just brush it off as one of those things? I will test further, but my temp gauge never seems to go above about 1/3. When I've looked through the paperwork I remember mention of an uprated radiator and it does indeed look fairly new, so I guess cooling is probably fairly good, but surely it should still reach about 1/2 on the gauge? Perhaps it's got the wrong thermostat fitted to try and make it run cooler...

I'll come back to the rest of this later but have a slightly more pressing question. Went to the car today to take fire a drive after leaving the battery on charge overnight and the oil light didn't go out. What I'm hoping is that in trying to cover the extension lead and battery charger under the bonnet I knocked a wire from the oil pressure sensor so the light is staying on. Is this fairly likely? If so, where is the sensor and what colour are it's wires? I'm going to try and solve this one on the dark tonight as I will sleep better not worrying that I have a dead Spit...

I seem to have caused a bit of a discussion about rust prevention... What I need to do is work out a list of priorities so as not to cause any damage to the car before I can sort everything properly. One of the things I think needs to be on that list is a coolant change as the water is rust rather than antifreeze coloured at the moment. I will also do something about the rusty bits so they don't spread. About to take the car out to the shop and I'm anticipating a flat battery again but we'll see. Anyway, over the next couple of days I'll try and work that one out. Regarding the headlight switch, how likely is it to fail such that the lights all go out (main and dip) and won't come back on by flicking back to dips? That would not be fun...

Not sure I've ever been tempted to eat/drink anything from an aerosol can, but each to their own I guess... 😛 iI understand rightly that those sorts of product can be applied to surface rust (as long as it's clean and dry) without making a "trap" where rust will spread? I took the car for a drive tonight, once it started. Seems the battery was just flat as it was turning over really slowly but started immediately with a jump. Oddly enough, the main beam/dip stalk worked fine except for the first time I tried... Perhaps there was just a bit of moisture somewhere interfering with it before, or maybe very nearly failed....

Mine has a switch in the centre of the dash off-sidelights-headlights and a stalk on the left of the steering column up for mains, down for dipped and towards driver to flash. Sometimes moving the stalk up turns the lights off entirely and sometimes it works...

I really don't have much money to lavish on the car, but that's exactly why I'm asking this. I'm just concerned about the idea of the car rotting away from underneath with spray off the road and the top with the rain...

lhs = left hand side? My headlight stalk is on the left anyway, so not quite sure what you mean by this? I expect I'm being dense... Regarding the cover, the main reason I want to do something to protect the car is that there are some areas of rust (mainly the rear arches) which I don't want to spread before I can sort them out and figured keeping the rain off would be a good help with that. The hood actually seems to keep rain out but I think it needs a bit more testing before I'm confident of that...

So, it looks like the spitfire will be living outside, at least for now. The roof seems watertight (although I don't see how the tops of the windows will keep much rain out?) but there is a bit of rust on the rear arches which I don't really want to get any worse... Presumably some sort of cover is my best bet, at least as a temporary measure? Does anyone know of a good one that's not too expensive? I was looking at this - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RAIN-DEFENCE-WATERPROOF-BREATHABLE-COVER-FOR-TRIUMPH-SPITFIRE-1962-1980/253270712068?hash=item3af81c5f04:g:D-AAAOSwhVxaEwNj:rk:6:pf:0 When I get a chance for a tinker with the car I need to solve an electrical problem where the headlights turn off when switching to main beams. They work in the flashing position though, so I'm assuming it's a problem with the switch at the end of the stalk.

I shall certainly be posting loads of photos and questions! I will also bring the car along to the next local meet to see if someone will cast an experienced ear/eye... In the meantime, thank you everyone for your help getting to this point

On the car... Turned out to be a dodgy connection in the fuse box.

Made it eventually! I avoided rush hour round Birmingham... Involuntarily... All the lights went out on the motorway

I was thinking I'd probably put something better in when I change the oil, but if halfords oil is good enough I'll use that. I've brought an oil can to top up the dash pots which I think has 15/40 in. Hopefully that is OK?

There is a halfords right near the car, so I'll get some oil there. So I really want 5 litres of halfords oil though? I suppose I really don't want to not have enough...

I will definitely be making frequent stops to check that sort of thing If I did for need to put oil in, presumably I should put more or less the thickest oil I can get at a motorway services? Also, I don't know exactly what the tyre pressure should be but guessing around 30psi?

Not really sure. My train arrives in Exeter 12.40, the seller will pick me up from the station (10 minutes) then I will need to sort paying, the registration document and tax (I guess 30 minutes), get fuel and then set off. I imagine I would be on the way by 2pm. Not really sure how long it would take to get to Birmingham going steadily, but I guess right around 5pm...

I'm setting off from Pinhoe and will probably do a bit along the B3181 as far as Cullompton then onto the M5 north, then I can't decide either M5, M6 round Birmingham (but I think it'll be really busy by the time I get there) OR off M5 at j6, A449 to Kidderminster, A442 to Shifnal then onto the A5 east at which point I'd be pretty much home and dry. In a way the motorway seems the easy option, but I'm aware that a Spitfire isn't really a motorway sort of car. I also get the impression I'd run the risk of overheating if I'm sat for ages in slow/stationary traffic around Birmingham which is certainly more than possible at that time. Perhaps I'm worrying too much about this and should just get on with it? I can't wait to have the car at home