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Ziggy

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Posts posted by Ziggy

  1. Tr6 1973.  After finding my rear brakes had not been working for a long time, I have removed both adjusters, cleaned and refitted them, replaced both cylinders  and springs and renewed both rubber hoses, and now they work very well, but after bleeding them the pedal travels half way down even though the brakes work well. There is no leak from anywhere and the reservoir stays full. I have replaced the rubber washer on the front of the servo and fitted new pipes  above the injectors, so does this only leave the servo that could be faulty, or am I missing something? 

  2. in My TR6 1973 my temp gauge works fine, no problems, the question is where my radio space is I am fitting two gauges and a clock, one of the gauges is a temp gauge, slightly different from the tr6 one. can I run the wire from the existing gauge, still using that one and split the wire to run the other as well, or would it be too much load on it or not enough even to work it?

  3. 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

    well early or late   the  early shows a piped breather out thro' the floor 

    all tanks need to breath somehow be it a open pipe or a cap with  hole or a cap with a biased valve fitted (if triumph ever did that ) 

    as a later solution to rolled over spillage control 

    https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID600041  shows a breather tube   the later version does not 

    Pete

    Its a 1973, so late model. So I guess the cap should have the breather hole in then.

  4. My Triumph TR6  injection had a non vented fuel cap seal, which when opened released some pressure. I was told it shouldnt be non vented and put  a small hole in the cap rubber, so now there is no pressure. The car runs just as well, but I do get a whiff of petrol fumes now and again, is this normal and should it be pressurised or not?

  5. Update on injector fault, I pulled number 5 out when engine not running, pulled the needle out a few times so the petrol trickled out and it seems to run much better now, nice strong pulse , nearly as good as the others, so lets hope thats sorted now for a while, and it started first time too!

  6. 1973 fuel injection. When starting it runs rough for about a min then seems ok after that. I have put fuel injection cleaner in, maybe that will help, but feeling the pulses on the pipes, all ok except number 5 which is weaker than the rest by a fair bit. Is this the injector at fault or something else?  I guess whatever it is is causing my problem.

  7. My 73 TR6 with fuel injection (lucas pump)  has trouble starting, and when does seems to misfire for about 30 seconds, then all is ok, runs nice after that. Always the same when starting cold or hot. Replaced leads, cap, rotor arm, points, just put injection cleaner in the tank, so no results from that yet. Could it be a faulty injector?  Is this a common problem?

  8. Whats the best radio suppressor to get for my 1972 mk4 spitfire as the radio has a lot of interference when running, I guess the old one doesnt work anymore! Just restored the car, have 8mm leads on the plugs, but still get interference.

     

  9. 6 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

    Sounds like it! Could be blockage in the heater, but did it work before? Disconnect heater hoses from block and fill heater externally, reconnect, try again. By trying to fill you will learn if more water was needed, or not. If not then thermostat or worse ☹️. Tell us what happens.

    Doug

    I will try that. I will remove the heater out pipe as that is cold when engine running, but the inlet is hot, so must be an air lock. No idea if it worked before, but I have had it all out and flushed it so I know its not blocked, I have restored the car bottom up, so most stuff is all new. 

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  10. Just rebuilt my engine and have all new coolant pipes/rad, the whole coolant system has been stripped and cleaned, but after refilling the temp is perfect but when the fan is on I get no hot air at all, is this an air lock? if so, how do I get rid of it? 1973 mk4 Spit 1300.

  11. I would like to fit  a Ethanol Proof Fuel Hose  from tank to pump as just one pipe with no joints plus a glass fuel filter before the pump too, is this ok or does it have to be copper pipe with joints? 1972 mk4 1300 spitfire.

  12. 1972 mk4 spitfire, bought a new fuse box but cant get the old wires out of the old box, how do you do that?  the new box seems to have slightly different connections as well.  Do I just cut them and maybe solder them on?

  13. I am restoring my 1972 mk4 1300  spit  and have noticed three 17amp fuses in the fuse box, yet the Haynes manual state they should all be 35 amp, which I will now fit, any  ideas why 17 amp were fitted?  The car has not been running the two years I have had it as its in bits, and not on the road before that since 1980.

  14. I am rebuilding my MK4 suspension, all new bushes( poly), new shocks, new steering rack , new almost everything. I had one side of the chassis with no shims, the other with two shims, this is on the lower suspension arm brackets to chassis. Am I right in thinking that as all new, start with no shims either side and go from there? No engine in car to be able to check at local garage as yet.

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