Alex Lowe
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Posts posted by Alex Lowe
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Thank you all for your comments it sounds like some matting and more importantly focusing on sealing the bulkhead gaps is key to success here
looks like ill be shopping for matting and mastic this evening
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Hi All,
Im about to reinstall my gearbox tunnel into the GT6 and was wondering what people suggest using to reduce the heat coming into the cabin. Iv heard if people using roof insulation as a substitute for the original insulation bag?
Alex
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9 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
red wires are side lights they must go to the side lamp bulbs
these are twin filament stop/tail and must have a claw holder with offset bayonet pins and two contacts
some claw need./have an earth wire some rely on the claw earthing via the lamp housing being earthed
as said these all get mixed up and you get the results you are seeing
so single contact and single bulb are indicator and reverse lamps 21w each
offset pin twin contact claw holder is stop/ tail 5w +21w
Pete
Hi Pete
Red wires are connected to the side lamp bulbs I was referring to the red cable into the dimming relay which does not have a second corresponding cable to join to like the others.
I believe the holders are correct as they are both new from fitchett and I just double checked the bulbs wattage and they are 21/5W double filament bulbs.
So I think this should rule out most of what you suggested?
For reference the car is a late MK3 GT6
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I am having a similar issue with my rear lights but am at a loss where to progress next.
My issue is my brake lights are not functioning when the rear lights are switched on obviously a bit of an issue for night time driving. However both seem to work independently of each other. So far I have done the following
I have by passed the dimming relay both by simply disconnection the earth and then joining same colours together. This leaves the black and red cables connected to nothing.
I have cleaned both houses and bulb holders and tried multiple different ones of both.
One observation I have noticed and cant quite work out is that when the bulb holders are removed from the light cluster and the brakes are applied the bulbs are lighting up. When I take a voltage reading of the red wire where it joins the front loom I am reading approximately 3V. I am not sure what's going on with this but does not seem correct.
Any help or suggestions would be amazing as I'm pulling my hair out over this one.
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10 minutes ago, Mark B said:
This is usually caused by ride hieght/tyre combination. I would have thought 175/70 would have been ok. If the car is fitted with lowered front springs this could be the cause, and why having adjustable spring seats on the shocks is usefall. The bulk head tapers in down towards the front outrigger, so a little bit of height adjustment can make big difference with tyre to bulkhead clearance.
I thought that originally but I installed new gas shocks and road springs. Then added some spacers to raise the ride height but still having issues
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3 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
this foul does seem to bug some cars with little clues to solve it
unless you change the tyre pressure or weight of car you wont change the area of the footprint on the road surface regardless of tyre size
Pete
Adding my spare which had an original 155/13 I gained a decent amount of room so I think the 165 should do the trick. But I agree some people have no issues some do with very few solutions.
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Hi All,
I have been battling front end bulkhead rubbing on my GT6 MK3 since restoring the car. As the attached photo shows when the car is on lock the tyre is very close to the bulkhead on both sides but slightly more rubbing on passenger side. I think iv ruled every possibility out so far from.
- Tub in wrong place, seems to all line up where it should.
- Suspension arms are straight
- shims went back in the positions they came from.
Only things I changed during the resto in this area was trunnionless uprights and I changed the tyres from 165/70/13 to 175/70/13 the rims were always steel 5.5J.
I think my only option now is to change the front tyres back to 165/70/13 but peoples thoughts on this would be very appreciated. I believe I will gain approx. 15mm of extra space but will there be any detrimental effect having different sizes front and back?
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Well as suggested iv added one set of shims to the bottom wishbone as the passanger side had non drivers did. Was advised by my local TSSC chat to make them even. Seems to have made some difference need to take it out for a drive with some masking tape so i can see if rubbing is still happening. After that I think its time to look into the 3/8 spacers for the shocks
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20 minutes ago, johny said:
Looking at their picture of it and comparing with standard Id say yes the bottom ball joint has to be further out and, to keep the same angle of the upright, the top is further away from its ball joint resulting in more swing.
You could measure wheel track width across the car but it would be best to compare it now to the original set up...
Hmm can do but difficult to compare and a bit unsure on what I could do about this to rectify with out reverting back to trunnions which I do not want to do.
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1 minute ago, johny said:
I suppose it could be that the Canley upright pushes the wheels out a bit further than standard and that will make a difference as the further out the tyre sits the further it moves back and forth for the same angle of upright rotation...
That's possible and does make sense how ever iv never heard of anyone have such issues when swapping to the Canley uprights. Again the wheels don't look further out than before but with out an original set up its impossible to tell.
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4 minutes ago, Mark B said:
This is usually caused by the ride height/tyre width. The distance between the bulk head and tyre increases as the car is raised, as the bulk head tapers in towards the front outrigger. A little bit of height adjustment either way can make a big difference to clearence. As long as the the front tub to out rigger bolts are are in place then the tub must be in the the correct position, there will be minimal tub movement/adjustment when loosened.
My thoughts exactly the front most bolt holes are fixed therefor as you say not much adjustment.
The suspension has had new gas shocks and new "standard springs" I believe from James paddock if my memory servers me correctly.
Tyre width 175/70/13 seems to be the tyre size most people go with and was not causing issues before the full strip down.
Could the body hight on the chassis not be correct ie not enough shims from body to tub?
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29 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
Lower Wishbone, Road Spring and Damper : Canley Classics
sounds about right front is offset uppermost the rear one is set downwards
Pete
It seems I have defiantly got the suspension set up correctly then. Which puts me even more at a loss. Having measured against a friends spit it all seems to be the same and yet my wheels rub and his have a good 2cm of clearance. Same tyre size apart from I have 5.5j over his 5.0j
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8 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
my thoughts were the pivot brackets could be swapped so the wrong offset play havoc with your castor angles on turns
pete
Which way round would be correct for a mk3 gt6 mine is curranty set up with the lower wishbone sloping down towards the car. So rear bracket mounts wishbone in the middle and front bracket at the top.
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I seem to be having a similar issue with tyre rubbing on the bulkhead tunionless is one of the changes I have made. Are they sided perhaps although I don’t remember anything like this.
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Hi all.
im struggling with this issue. I’m coming to the end of my restoration and the front wheels are very close to the bulkhead when the steering is on lock and even rubbing. Distance I’m getting in the photo bellow.
what could be causing this as it didn’t happen before the body came off the chassis. Tyre size is the same 175/70/13. It’s had new shocks and springs standard height springs. And canleys trunionless upgrade.
my only thoughts currently are.
1. the body is too far forward on the chassis but looking through the bolts at the very front don’t seem to have any adjustment room.
2. were the canley uprights sided and iv got mixed up causing the wheel to sit backwards (don’t see this as likely)
any thoughts or suggestions would be really appreciated
Alex.
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On 23/10/2022 at 19:31, Pete Lewis said:
i take it you pulled the flip over the flange with a cord run around the seal ????
Pete
Yes Pete, it was just the pesky corners which wouldn't seat. I have ordered a seal from baines to reattempt. Should I be trying things like heating the seal up in hot water first this time and to confirm does the plastic trim need inserting onto the seal first and how important is it to fit this part?
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Unfortunately no luck with the sock filled with shot smacking it as hard as I dare.
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I shall have to give the sock filled with shot. I’m guessing by that you mean lead shot? As I am really not keen to take it back out. I did get the seal from T D Fitchets who are normally ace when it comes to spares
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Would I be able to get any better results trying to use a heat gun now it’s in to ease it in a bit more? Preferably I’d rather not have to start from scratch the blisters on my hands have had enough 😂
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So iv spent the last few weekends trying to get this windscreen fitted into the MK3 GT6 even had a specialist come assist yesterday and this is still the best we could do edges and sides pealed over any suggestions on how to resolve this with the screen still in place or does it have to come back out? He was trying to say the glass was to big for the hole and the seal wasn’t very good. but not sure how much I buy that.
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Hmmmm I would rather keep my original box if at all possible so by the sounds of it the main parts I would need to acquire would be a D type overdrive and main shaft?
And my car is a 74 reg so defiantly a late model I just did my seals on the diff and although i didn't check the code i noted a blob of red paint on the casing
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Thanks for your reply Clive I thought it was something similar to that. I think finding a main shaft would be the biggest problem. Are the main shafts from the dolomite 1850 boxes compatible I feel like I read that somewhere but could be incorrect.
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Hi All
I'm thinking about trying to convert my current non OD gearbox to an OD unit and was wondering all the components I would need to do this whether it would be an original D type unit or a better J type (which if my understanding is correct are stronger). On the face of it doesn't seem like a massively complicated job just not sure on what exact parts would be required from which triumph models.
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Ah nice one are they happy to ship to the UK?
Triumph GT6 Slow throttle close
in Fuel System
Posted
Hi All,
I have just finished my restoration of my MK3 GT6 and am starting to run the car in. I have noticed the throttle is very slow of closing causing the throttle to stick on (I have rebuilt the carbs as part of the rebuild) I am a bit of a loss on what to try apart from new return springs which I have been unable to find. Would it be possible to turn the current ones an extra turn to increase the pressure?