Alex Lowe

Hi All, I have just finished my restoration of my MK3 GT6 and am starting to run the car in. I have noticed the throttle is very slow of closing causing the throttle to stick on (I have rebuilt the carbs as part of the rebuild) I am a bit of a loss on what to try apart from new return springs which I have been unable to find. Would it be possible to turn the current ones an extra turn to increase the pressure?

Thank you all for your comments it sounds like some matting and more importantly focusing on sealing the bulkhead gaps is key to success here looks like ill be shopping for matting and mastic this evening

Hi All, Im about to reinstall my gearbox tunnel into the GT6 and was wondering what people suggest using to reduce the heat coming into the cabin. Iv heard if people using roof insulation as a substitute for the original insulation bag? Alex

Hi Pete Red wires are connected to the side lamp bulbs I was referring to the red cable into the dimming relay which does not have a second corresponding cable to join to like the others. I believe the holders are correct as they are both new from fitchett and I just double checked the bulbs wattage and they are 21/5W double filament bulbs. So I think this should rule out most of what you suggested? For reference the car is a late MK3 GT6

I am having a similar issue with my rear lights but am at a loss where to progress next. My issue is my brake lights are not functioning when the rear lights are switched on obviously a bit of an issue for night time driving. However both seem to work independently of each other. So far I have done the following I have by passed the dimming relay both by simply disconnection the earth and then joining same colours together. This leaves the black and red cables connected to nothing. I have cleaned both houses and bulb holders and tried multiple different ones of both. One observation I have noticed and cant quite work out is that when the bulb holders are removed from the light cluster and the brakes are applied the bulbs are lighting up. When I take a voltage reading of the red wire where it joins the front loom I am reading approximately 3V. I am not sure what's going on with this but does not seem correct. Any help or suggestions would be amazing as I'm pulling my hair out over this one.

I thought that originally but I installed new gas shocks and road springs. Then added some spacers to raise the ride height but still having issues

Adding my spare which had an original 155/13 I gained a decent amount of room so I think the 165 should do the trick. But I agree some people have no issues some do with very few solutions.

Hi All, I have been battling front end bulkhead rubbing on my GT6 MK3 since restoring the car. As the attached photo shows when the car is on lock the tyre is very close to the bulkhead on both sides but slightly more rubbing on passenger side. I think iv ruled every possibility out so far from. - Tub in wrong place, seems to all line up where it should. - Suspension arms are straight - shims went back in the positions they came from. Only things I changed during the resto in this area was trunnionless uprights and I changed the tyres from 165/70/13 to 175/70/13 the rims were always steel 5.5J. I think my only option now is to change the front tyres back to 165/70/13 but peoples thoughts on this would be very appreciated. I believe I will gain approx. 15mm of extra space but will there be any detrimental effect having different sizes front and back?

Well as suggested iv added one set of shims to the bottom wishbone as the passanger side had non drivers did. Was advised by my local TSSC chat to make them even. Seems to have made some difference need to take it out for a drive with some masking tape so i can see if rubbing is still happening. After that I think its time to look into the 3/8 spacers for the shocks

Hmm can do but difficult to compare and a bit unsure on what I could do about this to rectify with out reverting back to trunnions which I do not want to do.

That's possible and does make sense how ever iv never heard of anyone have such issues when swapping to the Canley uprights. Again the wheels don't look further out than before but with out an original set up its impossible to tell.

My thoughts exactly the front most bolt holes are fixed therefor as you say not much adjustment. The suspension has had new gas shocks and new "standard springs" I believe from James paddock if my memory servers me correctly. Tyre width 175/70/13 seems to be the tyre size most people go with and was not causing issues before the full strip down. Could the body hight on the chassis not be correct ie not enough shims from body to tub?

It seems I have defiantly got the suspension set up correctly then. Which puts me even more at a loss. Having measured against a friends spit it all seems to be the same and yet my wheels rub and his have a good 2cm of clearance. Same tyre size apart from I have 5.5j over his 5.0j

Which way round would be correct for a mk3 gt6 mine is curranty set up with the lower wishbone sloping down towards the car. So rear bracket mounts wishbone in the middle and front bracket at the top.

I seem to be having a similar issue with tyre rubbing on the bulkhead tunionless is one of the changes I have made. Are they sided perhaps although I don’t remember anything like this.