Doctor slow

Thanks Johny

Installing a lowering block (half inch), and perhaps foolishly didn't notice which way up the studs are fitted. The threaded ends are different lengths. Firstly are they the same thread, and secondly which end screws into the diff. Any help, please. I did wonder while pondering this why they can't be replaced with a bolt?

Once again, help from the grown-ups please. My spitfire is yellow. The colour code on the car says it's Inca yellow.........it isn't. What little documentation I have says it's Mimosa yellow.........it isn't, although I think that's very close. I have had a very minor ding, which has been sorted, but I need to paint it, and I suspect that I may end up spraying at least the top half of the rear wing, if not all of it. I've asked around the local paint suppliers, ands although they say they will spectrophotometer the colour, they will only use that to match to a car manufacturers colour (I have had this problem before with a midget, and ended up with a Toyota colour which was just not quite right, just enough to look wrong). So is there such a thing as a paint supplier within a reasonable radius of Guildford who will match my colour exactly and make up one or two aerosols? And while we're here, do I use cellulose or a toxic one, whatever they're called. Thanks for any help

Well, thank you all for your comments. On Saturday, a friend was passing and we were talking about my problem (well at least the only one I was prepared to talk about) and he said that he had three pullers that he had made (he was a toolmaker, and owned a 1938 Lancia Aprillia - beautiful). He brought them round yesterday and one fitted well enough to work -yippee - hub off. Thanks again.

Thanks for the replies, but I'm pretty much committed now to the hub replacement. Haven't had any takers for the loan or hire, so looks like I'm going to buy one. Just don't tell my wife... or tell her that it's a garden implement.

I really would like you to be right, then I wouldn't have to take this wretched hub off. Can you tell me where I find out the correct number of splines for a 1979 Spitfire 1500? The ones I bought said they were for a triumph spitfire, but they were also supposed to fit all triumphs with that hub??? They certainly appeared to match the one that I replaced, but I must confess, I didn't count the splines. And I thought I read on here somewhere that they deform as you pull them on??

Well Colin, as you can see, I tried to replace the only one stud that was a problem, but it would but pull in, and damaged the thread. I don't intend to permanently replace the studs with nuts and bolts, just to use the puller. My new/old hub already has studs fitted. Johnny, I thought that the whole point of the studs was that the splines deformed as the stud was pulled in. But anyway, The new studs are the same as the old ones, and the splines did align when I just initially placed them in the hub before tightening them. I gave up on all this, thinking I would just (?just) replace the hub... haha!

It started as a simple job. I needed to replace one wheel stud, because the thread was crossed.The established wisdom is that you can tap out the old one, put the new one in, then use a wheel nut to pull it in - right? Then why did mine not only NOT pull in, but stripped the thread on the new stud? So I thought I would replace the hub with a new/old one. Foolishly I used a non-churchill puller, and not only stripped the thread on the puller centre bolt and distorted the puller, but also stripped the thread on two more studs.....such fun So, usual question, does anyone in the guildford/aldershot area have a churchill that I can borrow, with any appropriate charges and/or deposit, please, and bearing in mind that I would be borrowing someone else's tool, can I tap out the remaining studs and replace them with "normal" nuts and bolts?

Thanks for that. I know that there are no obvious obstructions in the "Y" or the silencers. I wondered if this is a "swirling" problem. If the down pipe enters the long pipe at an angle is it possible that the gases swirl in that (wide bore) pipe and just happen to be on the right hand side as they hit the "Y".....? Certainly at idle, the output from the tail pipes appear to be equal (purely subjectively, of course). Agree about the back pressure with the popping. Also from previous experience, any unburnt fuel hitting free flow manifolds can cause popping. Not unduly worried about at the moment. Grandsons think it's cool( not literally!)

I have a twin exhaust on my spitfire 1500. It's attached to a single pipe, and a stainless manifold. I've removed the two silencers, cleaned the joints, and refitted the them. After a recent long journey, I checked the anchorages, and in doing so, touched both tailpipes. The left one (viewed from the rear) was just warm, the right one burnt my hand (as, I suppose, one would expect it to). I don't think that there should be this difference in temperatures. should I be worried? Car is running well, apart from some popping one overrun. Any opinions?

OK thank you all for that help. So, is a halfords brake cable good enough?

Title says it all. My throttle cable is sticking and jerky to use, and it gets worse when engine is hot. Tried cleaning inner cable with WD40, also lubricating it with very light oil, lubricating carburettor linkages and pedal "hinge". Visible parts of inner cable don't appear to be rusty or worn. Cable doesn't stick when off the car and held straight, but I can be convinced that it rubs slightly when curved as when on the car. I now need a new cable, since I tried removing the brass ferrule where it goes through bulkhead and replacing it with a bicycle cable adjuster, since the ferrule looked slightly worn where the inner cable exits, but this made no difference. So, question is, is this "normal", and I just live with it, is there a different, better cable I can use, or do I torch the car and buy a proper one? Any help very gratefully received.

For anyone following this project and still not bored, you may be interested to hear that I managed to get a fan belt 10 X 1110 mm, which fits well and allows removal and replacement of no. 1 spark plug. !0 X 1120 was too long, and anyway very difficult to get hold of. (preposition is a bad word to end a sentence with). May be helpful to anyone else who wants to get at no. 1 plug without moving alternator or use of "special tool". Of course I may be years behind everybody else ....... wouldn't be the first time.

Yes, you're right of course, but it was just a slip of the brain. Still not really used to the decimal money. Luckily, I ordered the right one.

Yes, i'm pretty sure there's enough adjustment left - the 1200 is only 1.12 cm longer, and i've tested it as much as I can without the new belt. The alternator was almost at the proximal end of the adjuster anyway and it was quite difficult to remove the old belt. Maybe Pete Lewis was right, and the alternator pulley is too big, but measuring it, it seemed right....... but anyway time will tell. It's exciting, isn't it - bet you're all on tenterhooks. 🤣 (you may have noticed I've just found these things, whatever they're called). I have one of those spring loaded plug spanners, but it was still too big. A tube spanner just about did the trick, but it was too short. Modifying that was more fiddly than getting a longer belt, but as I said, time will tell. Thanks again for all the help from the grown-ups.