BenWW
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Posts posted by BenWW
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Just now, Pete Lewis said:
dave this is your answer
I was going to buy this but worried that it has the chemicals in associated with modern metals rather than the version required for 'Classic Cars' Dammit.
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45 minutes ago, daverclasper said:
I use the standard blue stuff. Can Prestone be mixed with this, eg, to top up?
I decided to buy Bluecol in the end
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On 13/10/2022 at 14:18, Gully said:
The two cooling system pipes that disappear into the bulkhead are the supply and return for the heater matrix - easy to pop off and flush. If you remove the hose from the heater valve end, that gives an easy (gentle!) push-on for flushing the valve. There's a useful diagram in the Workshop manual which illustrates the flow direction in each hose.
Gully
Hi Gully,
Are you referring to page 109? -
18 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
Blimy Gully!
Plus VAT!
Out of interest, where do you park the car?
Doug
Could have been more... https://www.radtec.co.uk/shop/makes/triumph/gt6/gt6-radiator/ benefit is these guys are local but still.. 😐
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On 10/10/2022 at 15:28, Gully said:
I flushed the cooling system on my GT6 a few weeks ago as I was fitting a new aluminium radiator. I removed the radiator cap first, then drained the block via the block drain tap (which flowed immediately - a good sign!). I then drained the rest of the system by removing the bottom hose (my old radiator didn't have a drain tap). I flushed the system thoroughly, using the garden hose, as follows:
1. Disconnected the heater supply from the heater valve and its return, so I could flush the heater matrix
2. Flushed the coolant return from the heater valve / banjo bolt
3. Reverse flushed the heater valve itself - this removed the most crud
4. Flushed the block via the block drain
I disposed of the old coolant properly, but the flushing water from the hose I simply allowed to exit into a bucket and splash at will onto the driveway and into the drain. Only a few rusty stains on the drive! I flushed until the water ran clear.
New radiator is fitted and the heater is now working again (flow was poor due to build-up in the rad valve).
Gully
Thanks Gully. Here the heater matrix can be an issue. Will need to look that up in the manual, not sure I'd know that part.
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25 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
Ben,
Lots of threads on here were people say I did this, this and this, but now THIS is happening, what's wrong? One thing at a time is what the Grand Wizard Lewis has taught us!
Doug
Yep, completely valid point. Probably best I tick one thing off at a time. Give it a good flush through and see how she gets on.
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1 hour ago, johny said:
What condition is the radiator in? The fins start to deteriorate over time especially on the front face and these do dissipate a lot of heat.
The other aspect is how much heat is produced by the engine. If its running with a weak mixture, either through adjustment or additional air getting into the intake side, it will produce more heat which of course means the cooling system has to work harder...
Thanks Johny, sorry I missed this the first time. I'll be sure to take a good luck. If it doesn't look too great and no change after the coolant change I'll look to recore it.
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51 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
Back flushing is well worth it but makes a mess! So do it outside, bottom hose off, drain. Garden hose in the top, run till water comes out clear. There may be crude in the block drain and this may be winkled out with a small screwdriver or wire coat hanger. but this is not imperative, the drain plug is in a reservoir to the side of the main water jacket.
Coolant, I think, should be replaced every 2 years, but I've gone MUCH longer
Why do you want to change the thermostat? Wait and see what the back flush achieves, if not much, then change it. Make sure the thermostat has a small hole (sometimes with a crude ball type valve)
Doug
Thanks Doug, sounds like great advice. I may have to move the car to an access with water to flush through properly then.
I was just thinking if changing the thermostat at the same time to rule that out. I'm guessing it isn't too much of an issue to change later on with new coolant in.
I haven't changed it in two and I don't honestly know when it was done before albiet it has been looked after so very well so unlikely to be much before.
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42 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
You can siphon limited amounts from the radiator, you can only really get as far as the top of the tubes. If there's no drain tap at the bottom of the radiator, nor one on the side of the block behind the exhaust, then removing the thermostat housing will enable you to drain more. For best results though you really need to remove the bottom hose and flush the system out with a hose, inserted from the top downwards and the bottom up, as many times as it takes.
Thanks Colin.
Any other common faults which could lead to the overheating or do you think this is a good place to start?
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Hi all,
So my GT6 on the last few runs has been running hot.
Starting with the basics I thought I would drain, flush and replace the coolant as it's one thing I can't guarantee has been done for a while. I was going to replace the thermostat whilst I was at it.
I know there is a tendency for the block to gunk up and sighted the drain hole for that.
Question is, can I drain most of the fluid from the radiator with the drain plug (cap off) as I know what will happen if I pull free the main hose from the base of the radiator.. I'll end up with it all over the bay.
I was going to drain down as much as I could, add the deionised water, then the powerflush, top up with water and run for 10 minutes. Then drain down again and refill with new bluecool.
Am I missing anything?
Ben
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8 hours ago, Bfg said:
Sorry Pete, this is not good for the engine ..as running for just 10 minutes would be mostly on choke, and the petrol-rich mix washes oil from the bores, and soots everything up. Also causes condensation in the exhaust, etc., etc. Much better to lay the car up properly, and to take the battery home or else configure other charging means, such as solar panel or a small wind generator. And If you haven't winterised the GT6 by raising it on blocks then, every month or so, move / roll the car 6" or so to turn the wheels and avoid tyre flats.
Another option is to use jump leads from your 'modern' / daily driver car to the GT6's disconnected battery for ten minutes or so. Letting your modern / daily driver idle for 10 minutes, when it is already warm, would do no harm (..as long as it's not prone to overheating when sitting in traffic). The GT6's battery can of course remain on the car, which saves carrying it home to charge it.
Pete.
Thanks Pete. Really informative. It's a shame there isn't a unit that you can charge which then acts as a cordless trickle charger, then going up as you say every month when rolling it taking the charger home and recharging that. Guess it's a perfect solution to a seldom problem such as mine.
Thanks again!
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1 hour ago, trigolf said:
I can't comment on a suitably rated solar panel for the garage roof as suggested. But, with Mains supply available in my garage - I have used an Accumate Batt conditioner for years - it's been 100% reliable. I'm still using a ten year old Batt on the Vit, having 'conditioned' it from purchase date.
Gav
Thanks Gav. Super handy to know.
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1 hour ago, David Kirk said:
Hi Ben,
You could always remove the battery and take it home with you.
Batteries like to be stored charged and do better if not too cold.
Thanks David. I think that may be my best option and put it on a trickle charger at home instead when I suspect it will be say for a while.
I saw a previous thread that intimated 063 batteries are the preferred type. My current battery has no markings on it whatsoever (unless on the bottom).
Was looking at the Lion (cheap ans cheerful I suspect) - https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/lion-063-car-battery-3-year-guarantee-444770631
And the Bosch (which I suspect will perform better, hold charge longer etc) - https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/bosch-s4-car-battery-063-4-year-guarantee-444770637
Both batteries on the smaller capacity so when using more frequently I can be happy that the shortish runs i do are keeping it topped up.
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Morning all,
I committed a cardinal sin, as a newbie classic owner, I failed to look after my battery.
I came to my GT6 after many months if it being cooped up in the garage (no electric supply) without being taken on a run to find it was as dead as a dodo.. not a thing on a turn of the key.
Then it got me thinking, what is the best way to look after your battery from your opinions?
I now need to replace my battery. I have always been a fan of the big brands, Bosch etc. On other threads there are difference of opinion on size. I have a MK3 GT6 if this makes any difference. In the good weather I get out in it plenty but then it can sit a while. I tend to do hour long runs when out and about so should be good enough to keep a small battery charged up but then a large battery would hold a charge longer.. decisions decisions.
What chargers / conditioners are recommended bearing in mind I can't charge the battery in trickle whilst it's in the garage?
Thanks all and it really is great to be thinking of getting out in the car again!
Ben
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So i have checked this out. Got the right socket for the bolts but there is nowhere near sufficient room underneath for me to get the torque wrench in over the top
Best case scenario is loosening the screw, moving column and retorquing that to the right load.
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7 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
That large single one is the allen key - it's set to a specific torque to collapse in the event of a collision.
The two smaller ones on the other side are easier to deal with - I think they're 7/16, undo both, move the column, and retorque back to suitable tightness.
Perfect. Thanks Colin!
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Thanks all. Super helpful so far, hopefully am getting there.
I found the impact clamp and can confirm there is movement when pushing forward and pulling back the inner column from the area of the splines/where sat the steering wheel.
Just so I get this right to stop any future impaling or otherwise near death experience. I have attached a photo. Which bolts should or shouldn't I mess with?
I am guessing the socket screw stops any movement of the inner column so guessing not tight enough?
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16 minutes ago, DanMi said:
The column is meant to move in the event of an accident. It should b held by the pressure from the allen socket headed bolt on the clamp so that needs tightening to hold the column.I you undo all the clamps if i remember correctly you can also adjust the position of the outer
Cheers Dan. I haven't undone any clamps yet and the outer also moves forwards and backward so seems that needs tightening too.
I'm still confused after loosening the impact clamp and pulling out the inner how I could possibly get in there to retorque to the right setting 🤨
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1 hour ago, Nigel Clark said:
I would expect that by loosening the impact clamp, you can extend the inner column a fraction to give the required clearances for the new boss.
Tighten the impact clamp after to specified torque settings. From memory, the Allen screw should be 9 lb ft and the nut is 18 lb ft, but best to check in the manual.
Nigel
So after looking in manual I have found it. Its in such a tight space. How am I meant to be able to retorque them in such a small gap. I can do the bottom nut but the allen screws would be near impossible.
Should I be able to move the upper column as normal anyway as per the pics?.. i can literally do it by hand (with ignition on)
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1 hour ago, Nigel Clark said:
I would expect that by loosening the impact clamp, you can extend the inner column a fraction to give the required clearances for the new boss.
Tighten the impact clamp after to specified torque settings. From memory, the Allen screw should be 9 lb ft and the nut is 18 lb ft, but best to check in the manual.
Nigel
Hi Nigel,
That makes sense. Now to find the impact clamp 😅.
Thanks for the advice!
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I also didnt realise that the centre column could move backwards and forwards into its housing. Unfortunately it cannot move towards me enough to still stop the two surfaces fouling.
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Sooo. I decided to change the steering wheel in my GT6. Before assembly I made sure with the seller and Springalex that the boss was the correct model. I am now thinking it isn't.
So I fit the boss and it seems to sit perfectly flush with the steering column rim and fouls it meaning that i have metal on metal rubbing each other.
The original boss sits 'inside' the column and is rubber backed.
It appears that the new boss raised centre doesnt clear the outside of the colums edge enough for them to not meet.
Anyone come across this before? Is there anyway I can pack it out to stop it fouling.
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Just a quick update. Falken SN832s ordered and fitting on Wednesday 👍🏼
Thanks all for the advice and guidance.
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4 hours ago, Nick Jones said:
On my Vitesse the tyres are on 100+ cross-spoke alloys, 6J
On the GT6 they are on steel wheels but the 5” version (late Spit 1500?)Nick
Just got home and they are definitely the 4.5 rims
Correct coolant replacement - GT6
in Cooling System
Posted
Thanks Gully. All flushed through. Still running hot so got the fan to kick in earlier. Need to start going through the list of possibilities now. All fun and games. 😄