charlie8

Well after what i would consider a frustrating time of endless meddling setting up the front end - quarter valance ( much hassle making sure the 4 brackets are the right way around etc ), bumper - whereby the solid ref point is the bumper attachment to the front strut which then also largely dictates the aft position of the q valances as they connect to the bumper sides. This sets where the bonnet wing needs to rest to flow the curves. After doing all that, with a floating bonnet, it now rests 1/4" too far forward from the bulkhead as per photo, which I think confirms that this has been set wrong and fallen back. So all my bracing and careful fixing before cutting out sills etc was in vane as looks like the original settings were out and why I found drilled out lateral holes in the original bonnet brackets. The old bonnet was so rotten and braces broken that it was impossible to know these settings were wrong. Now I find the mounting iron holes locate in the bracket holes which as per original posts did not, i think again confirming the bulkhead is too far back. The odd thing is that the H-frame in the car does connect ok and sits vertical, so tilting back will flex that a bit although the metal the top the H-frame does connect to is not very strong so presume will flex. I need to get the doors on and check all other gaps, but you guys have provided some very key pointers here that you do need to check so much before starting to weld back. If I had assumed the bonnet needed to sit that far forwards at top of thread and built the rest of the sills, a-posts, floor around that, then the valances/bumper would have had a huge gap and looked terrible. I am lucky that the chassis frame it good, dead level and the front struts well proportioned, from here then the whole car builds out from that bumper fixing. Thanks for widening my eyes, I thought something was wrong

THanks will do this Chassis was restored - mainly condition, riggers were already OK and as I say holes lined up ok in all attach points with the body, this was the same as the previous chassis so ruling out issues on chassis/riggers - the bonnet fitment issue was the same on previous chassis/bonnet combo - although previous bonnet really was 'hanging' hence why replaced

This will be an interesting ref point if anyone can help compare to theirs. If this is too big, then bulkhead must come forwards, else I could add shims to the bracket but still be left with the front quarters etc not mating right. This gap in the pix are around 1/2, to just under 3/4 inch - slight variation left/right is prob due to a bit of lateral adjust I need to do as the bonnet is 'floating' in the hinges Hunch tells me the leading edge of the bracket should be in line with the bonnet lip and that delta is about the same of how far back the pivot bar holes should be to line up as per first pix in thread

Yes thats the other alternative, I remove all braces, cut off other sills and just build back from scratch, tilting back/adjusting the bulkhead till everything aligns then brace and rebuild - scary stuff. However the h-post goes in ok and as I say, the top of bulk and outer sill wing 'shelf' is pretty spirit level - so nothings too out from that POV, but maybe a very small adjust makes all the diff

thanks guys for responses, slightly more at ease and good idea about a thick hinge 'buffer' at the front I had indeed gone with the detach everything and try and set, ive removed the central bar across the bonnet to allow a bit more flexing in that respect, undone cone seats etc, but fundamentally it comes down to just not being able to push forwards enough as a starting point when 'in' the hinge point As you all have said, gotta get this right before rebuilding/welding - not sure the starting point was right in the first place

Yes indeed the body is on the chassis and in fact all holes lined up really well, all repairs I've done in this state ready for reassembly.

A real puzzle for me aligning things before welding but i cant seem to get the bonnet forward enough with the hinges holes, as per pix, only way to get the gap right means pushing the tubes further forwards out side the hinge range, both sides the same. The original bonnet also seemed to suffer this as someone had drilled out the horiz adjustment hole wider - however this is a new bonnet AND a new chassis and boxes/hinges, also replacement pivot tube. It makes adjustments very painful when I cannot even get one ref point set for the bonnet gap. Pivot tubes dont adjust as they are welding brackets that mate to holes so no room to slide around. Bulkhead seems level/horizontal, outer sill edge is level where wing will seat. Any clues - i am baffled and sore

Good point, i must connect the h-frame back in properly, just placed there as a ref but thats another brace point Never thought id come to learn to build a whole car around the doors, but those guys do seem to be the jewel in this cars crown, assuming as you say they themselves are sound. Cant imagine the headaches trying to attempt this off chassis ....

Thanks all for your replies, and Josef your thread is bullseye for me as you are exactly where i am in terms of big structural starting steps and that 'like position' has been hard for me to track down. I'll study this in depth For background, I am about a year into this having now done all the mechanical bits/rebuild after sourcing a better chassis and repairing a few holes in that - its been a complete strip and build, many many refs back to this site. Experienced welder I am not, but I did a college course at night to learn the basics and so far so good, just time consuming as a novice as the new metal pieces take me ages to cut right and them grind down after welding. My body started as below with the usual horrors underneath as you peal back the pages. As you can see alot of solid stuff more central to the car and have repaired some worm and holing on the shelf. The old floor seems to have upto 3 layers with multi efforts at the front flange so it just felt botched and was holey where only a single skin. Doors are very solid looking and so believe them to be good. The main issues with gaps as it was, was with the gaps between the bonnet and mid-a-pillar and bulkhead gap - after so much meddling with the bonnet hinges I released this was likely down to the outer sill position as this was fitted over the top of the old or bulkhead is titled too far forwards, and on pealing it apart saw all the trouble with rust anyway .... Body and chassis seam straight, all holes line up ( even to the new chassis i sourced )

I am ready to unleash the rebuild after probably being a bit gunhoe with the cutting out and have all the replacement panels ready floor, lower a-post, and 3 piece sill panels. I have done alot of reading and youtube surfing, but looking for some specific advice before I start Where should I start - sitting level on axel stands under chassis, multi-braced before cutting, but door fit was not great before particularly from the bonnet. You can see the old floor is like an onion from many layers of repair, but braced level at least so not sure what to use as my ref points. Most books suggest from floor out, but that assumes ( I think ) having sound supporting structures in place first - so should I build back the apost first and and align with old foor ? or use the space I have to do floor first ? Door checks I'll do repeatedly but also should I use a rivet gun for any temp setting or self tapping screws ? In my mind I was thinking : inner a-post then inner sill - check door/bonnet sill membrane seat, then weld lower b-post for a structure floor ( adhoc spot weld ) - pull all together via clamps - check door/bonnet outer sill hang - check door/bonnet unpack and weld Any tips from those who have been in similar situations ? Its a big step in my restoration and with a lot more body work than I was expecting so very green on the approach here.