[Gates belts Fan/Alternator/Water-Pump.]

1 hour ago, SpitFire6 said:

Hi Colin,

Fitted mine upside down years ago. A127 type.

Cheers,

Iain.

Brilliant thanks Ian, cheers Colin.

[Gates belts Fan/Alternator/Water-Pump.]

On 13/12/2023 at 22:36, SpitFire6 said:

Hi,
My car utilises a non-standard length fan belt as my alternator is upside down. I have also fitted a turnbuckle for adjustment.
My belt has been slipping for a while now. I need to replace it.
The 10mm-3/8" wide belts are available in 25mm lengths or less increments.

I have compiled a list from the Gates(r) website. All seem to be available online from Amazon etc.

Hopefully, somebody else will find it useful.
Cheers,
Iain.

 

gates belts.pdf 159.77 kB · 30 downloads

Thanks Ian and yes very useful. I have a TR6 and the alternator is very close to the block/No 1 spark plug, which make it very difficult to remove the plug. Also the alternator adjustment bracket is at its maximum length. I like the idea of a turnbuckle as I could then move the alternator further away.

Could you post a photo of your turnbuckle design Ian?

Best regards,  Colin

[J type o/d odd behaviour]

On 18/05/2022 at 19:39, daverclasper said:

Seem to remember the dimensions are on the Buckeye site to make a tool.

I used a punch and hammer to undo. Undid the Filter and Pressure Relief Valve plugs. Were a bit tight (or at least one of them) as I remember

Thanks for all the replies on the tool required to remove the filter plate and two others behind the overdrive sump plate. My concern with using the "punch, and other improvised pliers" etc, is that on replacing the cover plates you can`t tighten to the correct torques as specified in the WSM?

Also these cover plates haven't seen the light of day for 23 years so suggest the maybe quite tight? Guess this is why I would be making something similar to the L354L tool with a nut for the torque wrench.

 

Regards, Colin. 

[J type o/d odd behaviour]

2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

This is mine, an old 1" spanner ground down at each outer edge. I didn't really need to adjust the thickness of it, but did anyway, it's about 5mm thick now and the two 'prongs' are down to around 5 - 6 mm as well.

Thanks Colin, gives me a better idea on what is required ie 5 mm maximum thickness should suffice.

However, what's the reason to reduce the outside edges?

Dont suppose you know the dimensions/spacings for the pins required to remove the internal filter inside the overdrive sump filter plate, as it seems logical to clean this as well as refurbish the solenoid?

Regards, Colin.

[J type o/d odd behaviour]

1 hour ago, AlanT said:

Hi Colin,

it’s not bent, just not accurately made! There is a slot for a socket wrench to go into. I’d grind down a spanner if I were you! 

Thanks and understood Alan, but still wouldn`t buy one if it doesn`t work. I have asked on a reply to a later post what the maximum thinness needs to be to grind down, any idea?

Colin.

 

[J type o/d odd behaviour]

11 hours ago, Peter Truman said:

Here's a pic of a solenoid cross section for info, with some info

Unfortunately it doesn`t show the thickness of the nut to determine what the spanner needs to be ground down to. Does anyone know what the maximum spanner thickness should be?

Regards, Colin.

[J type o/d odd behaviour]

14 hours ago, AlanT said:

And the special tool has immediately bent! Compare with 1’ spanner!!!!!

Hi Alan, I have a similar problem with my J type and was going to replace the O rings in solenoid as well buy the special thin 1" spanner, however not sure now if it bends that easy? Also how do you use it, with that square hole, or is it designed to just "thump it with a hammer"

Regards, Colin.

[LED stop and tail light]

On 06/07/2020 at 14:57, Paul H said:

Big thumbs up to Classic Car LEDs. Bought their led stop and tail lights, but being a numpty purchased the 381 LED which have same level pins . My Vitesse needs bulb equivalent 380 which have stepped pins . Duncan accepted return and posted the correct leds with no extra postage charge . The new leds are approx 50% brighter and amp saving on the 50 yr old wiring .

Cost for 2 leds was £16 including postage .

 I have also previously purchased their dash panel lights which are much brighter than the originals 

NB they have an on line pdf which shows the led equivalent bulbs for our cars . Pity I didn’t read it 😱

 

Paul 

Paul, dont`t want to hog your TSSC club, but after reading your original post I purchased these high intensity tail/stop LED`s for my TR6, and what an improvement.

Also two white LED`s for the front white running lights, which are nearly as good as my main front sidelights. Looks likely I will consider replacing the remaining "candles" !!

Colin.

[TR6 Distributor and Alternator]

13 hours ago, clive said:

1. Yes, but only a minute or so. (I recently ran a TR7 engine having taken the water pump out, so no water at all.)

2. No measurement, but all the distributors I have fiddled with have done as you say. More important is the side to side waggle measurement. Basically if you can feel more than the tiniest movement, it is too much.

 

Thanks Clive. Just to confirm, ............."side to side" you mean diametrically ie N>S or E>W rather than clockwise/anticlockwise on the circumference?

Cheers, Colin.

[TR6 Distributor and Alternator]

Hi, am new to this forum;

Two questions; - I`am trying to eliminate various noises from my 74 TR6 PI.

1.) - Can I run the engine for a short period with the fan belt disconnected to see how much the engine noise changes without alternator to see if its bearings noise etc?

2.) - The distributor Lucas 22D6 has a Pertronics electronic ignition fitted. If I remove the red rotor and lift up the top shaft does this measure the "end float", if so what should it be, it seems to move up/down quite a lot?

Best regards, Colin.