c.hydes

Brilliant thanks Ian, cheers Colin.

Thanks Ian and yes very useful. I have a TR6 and the alternator is very close to the block/No 1 spark plug, which make it very difficult to remove the plug. Also the alternator adjustment bracket is at its maximum length. I like the idea of a turnbuckle as I could then move the alternator further away. Could you post a photo of your turnbuckle design Ian? Best regards, Colin

Thanks for all the replies on the tool required to remove the filter plate and two others behind the overdrive sump plate. My concern with using the "punch, and other improvised pliers" etc, is that on replacing the cover plates you can`t tighten to the correct torques as specified in the WSM? Also these cover plates haven't seen the light of day for 23 years so suggest the maybe quite tight? Guess this is why I would be making something similar to the L354L tool with a nut for the torque wrench. Regards, Colin.

Thanks Colin, gives me a better idea on what is required ie 5 mm maximum thickness should suffice. However, what's the reason to reduce the outside edges? Dont suppose you know the dimensions/spacings for the pins required to remove the internal filter inside the overdrive sump filter plate, as it seems logical to clean this as well as refurbish the solenoid? Regards, Colin.

Thanks and understood Alan, but still wouldn`t buy one if it doesn`t work. I have asked on a reply to a later post what the maximum thinness needs to be to grind down, any idea? Colin.

Unfortunately it doesn`t show the thickness of the nut to determine what the spanner needs to be ground down to. Does anyone know what the maximum spanner thickness should be? Regards, Colin.

Hi Alan, I have a similar problem with my J type and was going to replace the O rings in solenoid as well buy the special thin 1" spanner, however not sure now if it bends that easy? Also how do you use it, with that square hole, or is it designed to just "thump it with a hammer" Regards, Colin.

Paul, dont`t want to hog your TSSC club, but after reading your original post I purchased these high intensity tail/stop LED`s for my TR6, and what an improvement. Also two white LED`s for the front white running lights, which are nearly as good as my main front sidelights. Looks likely I will consider replacing the remaining "candles" !! Colin.

Thanks Clive. Just to confirm, ............."side to side" you mean diametrically ie N>S or E>W rather than clockwise/anticlockwise on the circumference? Cheers, Colin.

Hi, am new to this forum; Two questions; - I`am trying to eliminate various noises from my 74 TR6 PI. 1.) - Can I run the engine for a short period with the fan belt disconnected to see how much the engine noise changes without alternator to see if its bearings noise etc? 2.) - The distributor Lucas 22D6 has a Pertronics electronic ignition fitted. If I remove the red rotor and lift up the top shaft does this measure the "end float", if so what should it be, it seems to move up/down quite a lot? Best regards, Colin.