OKibblewhite

It had them scratching their heads a bit too...

The braided line runs to the Metering Unit

I believe that they did. However I'll check. Interestingly it wasn't the pin that failed on my clutch! It was the thread in the fork. As for the lights. There's no single fuse that can take out all the lights at once. And they're glow blow fuses so I'll be able to see if they've gone in the dark! And thanks

Good afternoon all. New to TR6 ownership, but not to classic cars... I was wondering what people carry around in the boot as their Everyday Tool Kit and what parts they've got to hand at all times? What would you pack for a longer trip (100+ miles)? So far I've got: Wheel Brace, Jack, and spare wheel. Set of Imperial/Metric spanners. Spark Plugs, spanner, feeler gauges. Dizzy Rotor. Nuts and Bolts bag from TRGB. Fluids (Oil,coolant,Brake/Clutch). Misc wire and crimps. Fuel additive. A bit of hose to bridge the heater matrix out of the system in the event of a leak/blown hose. Fuses. I'd welcome any other suggestions or recommendations. Pictures always a plus

I believe that they did. However I'll check. As for the lights. There's no single fuse that can take out all the lights at once. And they're glow blow fuses so I'll be able to see if they've gone in the dark! And thanks

I don't hate it.

Done that, the has been line cleared of bubbles, bubbles reappeared from the unit. https://photos.app.goo.gl/5v16m1ZhEaFMLm48A - See here for a video of the bubbles emerging from the metering unit. This raises all sorts of questions about where the air is coming from, as conceivably anywhere where air could get in... fuel at some level of PSI would be able to get out. But no smells or drips are evident. And the bubbles are not interfering with the actuation of the injector (pulled out, in a glass jar etc)... ETA: - Thanks for the manual link, I have a few but not one for the PI system!

Great! I've modified it with poppers on the door tops and the rear corners, meaning it sits nicely and is much easier to fit!

Update. After prodding and poking the injector on no5 and replacing the plug the misfire has gone. My TR Garage said they had never seen clear injector lines on a 6 in their 30 years of business and suspected that given it's running normally, they may all be like that, just unseen inside the normal solid black injector lines.

So, my relatively newly acquired 72 US/UK '6 has come back from having it's clutch work done after the pin through the fork and rod decided it wanted to be in 2 bits. The next things to start on are mostly electrical. Firstly Gauge bulbs. A set of ClassicCarLed's applied and things are visible again! The rheostat is still in place until I get round to the next project that involves the hole for it and a few other bits. Secondly is the headlights, the passenger side wasn't ... reliable. A bit of jiggling sometimes required with the wires in the front passenger corner needed to make it work. So. rather than dig into the loom and whatever is going on up there. I devised my own relay kit (1 relay per function (Side/Dip/Main)), with an incomer fuse into each relay, and an output fuse per side and function. Picking up the Side/Dip/Main beam 'signal' by running 3 additional wires (plus the 3+ground for each H4 connector/each side) into the passenger side bowl and then spade connectors into the H4 fitting, meaning that all the "original"(to me) wiring is still in place and untouched. Just with a second set of H4 sockets in each bowl, fed from the relays. Picked up a new 12v feed and a ground from near the fuse box. I'm not 100 happy with this just yet. Some re-routing and probably putting it through a 30A fuse in the box for ease. Fitment and wiring aren't final yet, I'll probably cover the lot in a black wrap and hide it a bit more, but it's good enough for testing. I'll be fabricating a custom 3d printed support/bracket for the Relay/Fuse holders on the bar shortly. While I was fiddling around I tried out some 7" units I had to hand... 😱😱😱

So. I've got a misfire on 5. First pass, plugs, number 5 is black (but dry) and the rest are brown, new plugs and gap checked. The second pass, I've got bubbles in the number 5 injector pipe. https://photos.app.goo.gl/313YERvYq4J36WWY7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/UrAG2DhHCtqiAJaX7 Videos Here ^^ So seals in the union to the metering unit is the next question, as they're only happening on number 5 and not on the others... But no apparent fuel leak. NEXT, I discovered that the injector on 5 wasn't firing properly, so swapped it with 6 and it started working fine on 6. The injector that was moved TO 5 started dribbling. Probably because the line is full of bubbles and not getting the pulse properly. I then pawed through my Haynes manual, this diagram seems to sugged that the REAR most port on the metering unit TOP, is actually for cylinder 6... NOT 5, which is what it's plumbed to currently. Leading me to ask a whole load of other questions about how exactly the hell it WAS working before (firing on all 6 and smooth-revving). Thoughts anyone? A new injector is on the way from TRGB and some other bits for the clutch slave job.

I do like the OD switch on the gear lever, vs the stalk. Having driven a MGB GT for a couple of years it's familiar.

I do indeed have a US Import, well spotted. I will do some investigating of the tail situation. Adding another feed from the marker lights to the stop twin filament should be easy enough.

Good evening all, I have a question about the rear lights of the TR6. As it stands when the lights switch is in either of it's "on" positions, the only lights that show on the rear of the car are the red lights on the very outside of the light unit as it wraps around the side of the car - they face more sideways than rearwards. Pressing the brake pedal obviously lights up the brake lights. Is that normal? Wiring diagrams suggest that it's right, but I've just not seen it before on a car I've owned.

Blanking plate to make it a little more stealth. And a work in progress phone holder on the passenger tunnel.

They're just aluminum (I think) triangles with vinyl over them and speaker holes. And they don't seem to fall out of their corners, there's probably some metal (wheel arch) behind the speaker that the magnets attract to, helping them stay there. Either way, they work well.

Good afternoon all. I am looking for a half cover for my TR6. Ideally, I'd like a cover that goes over just the "top" (Windscreen, window glass, hood and rear window). Using the snaps on the door tops, the rear snaps behind the window and the mirror to hold it down and against the car seems like a no brainer, but does such a cover exist? Or do I need to modify my own? Mostly this is to help alleviate my window gap anxiety until a garage can be found. A well fitted full cover would be fine too, but I like quick and easy on/off.

You are indeed correct that there has been "some" modification of the H frame's usual inhabitance... What we have here is a 7" touch screen, running a Raspberry Pi with OpenAuto installed. Which means I have Bluetooth, Nav, and Android Auto in a little screen that fits perfectly in the gap. Everything is an easy finger reach from the gear stick, or via the little 6-way controller between the choke and heater knobs. Behind it and between the cheeks is a 400W Kenwood micro amp, the Pi its self, a fuse and relay board for switching everything on and off (switched 12v feeds the relays via the toggle) and there's a relay between the main battery and the setup, as well as fuses per item. Relays ensure no pesky battery-draining!) As for speakers, I've got 2 x 50w the cheeks, 2 x 60W behind the seats in these neat little corner triangles (installed by the previous owner) and a little powered sub behind the passenger seat as there's no "enclosure" to let the speakers move any air otherwise. Sadly the tape deck that it came with was nonfunctional, however, the tape collection was included... All in all, it was a surprisingly easy build to add some microcontrollers to something that did not really want any! Salt comments noted.

I have a question about the flaps on a 6 soft top and the rear of the door glass, where 'should' the flap go? Inside the glass? or outside the glass? And with that in mind, if it's got a bit of a bow to it (which mine does) it doesn't exactly "seal" meaning my B pillar got damp... There are also little tabs at the bottom of the hood where it meets the B pillar and door shut which feels like it should be shut "in" the door jamb or flapping around inside the car... Any thoughts and or images on how and where things should go, to help with maximum rain repulsion? Thanks!

Good evening all, I picked this TR6 up a few days back! I'm rather enjoying it so far! The eagle-eyed amongst you may notice a few oddities. But all in all, it's proving to be a fun learning experience!