[Delco remy distributor cap clips]

Thanks All for your comments.

I managed to get one from the Distributor Doctor who had an old Delco unit. Also he is only 15 minutes away!

 

[Delco remy distributor cap clips]

56 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

https://www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk/bedford-vauxhall-ac-delco-distributor-cap-spring-clip-pack-x5-7952826-5340-99-802-2757.html

 

Thanks Pete

[Delco remy distributor cap clips]

56 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

https://www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk/bedford-vauxhall-ac-delco-distributor-cap-spring-clip-pack-x5-7952826-5340-99-802-2757.html

 

Thanks Colin

[Delco remy distributor cap clips]

Hi 

Does anyone know where the above can be found/obtained?

Thanks in anticipation.

[Lower throttle return spring MKIV Spitfire]

Thank you both for your replies.

KevinR so the bracket is attached to a stud, where the exhaust attaches to the manifold?

[Lower throttle return spring MKIV Spitfire]

Hi, can anyone supply pictures of how the above is attached? My MKIV came with one and the bracket is also missing.

Apologies if this has been asked before.

Thanks

Barry 

 

[Seat recovering!]

Thanks to you all for the advice 

[Seat recovering!]

47 minutes ago, Badwolf said:

Hi Barry - I got the webbing after a search on fleabay. You are looking for Pirelli rubber upholstery webbing. I think it was about 1.5" wide, available by the yard/metre/roll. This is the sort of stuff..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172263178737?hash=item281baf81f1:g:VbIAAOSwXoJfu4LV

As for length of each strap, I used my old ones as a guide. I think that I still have them somewhere, I will have a look. Remember that your old ones have stretched.

Hopefully, you still have the hooked clip things that the webbing goes through to be stretched across the frame in good condition. I think that I pass the straps through the clips and then used the original staples to tension, having removed them very carefully. You will notice a huge difference when you have done it. Along with new foams you will wonder why you sat with your ar*e on the floor for so long. Any other questions please ask. Lots of us have done this very satisfying and worthwhile job.

Hi Badwolf 

Thanks for the information and the link.

I couple of my straps are quite stretched, so will have to estimate the length allowing for that.

Barry

[Seat recovering!]

On 29/07/2020 at 19:00, Badwolf said:

Basic advice is DIY. When I did my Spitfire seats I got all the parts with the exception of the seat webbing (fleabay, by the metre) from Park Lane spares. A highly regarded supplier of seat covers, gubbins etc but only for Spitfires &GT6s. However, if you get all the stuff for yours, its a great winter project and doing it yourself (which should be fairly straight foward) will save you a packet. You will be amazed at the increased comfort factor

Hi Badwolf

I want to do the webbing myself as much cheaper. A couple of questions if you don’t mind?

1 - Can you recall where you got the webbing from?

2 - How did you gauge what length to make each one allowing for stretch etc?

Thanks

Barry

 

 

[J type overdrive output shaft oil leak]

Thanks Colin 

[Prompting for TSSC Membership Number]

14 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

associate member is for someone at the same house gets membership benefits but no courier 

eg  you and the wife    just   adds   £6  

 by  direct debit saves you £6 

Pete

 

Thanks Pete

[Prompting for TSSC Membership Number]

Hi

What is the difference between ‘standard’ and ‘standard and Associate’ membership?

Thanks

Barry

[J type overdrive output shaft oil leak]

1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

agree undo the rear mount from its support plate  its the easiest , undo the nuts above is easy but you wont get the munt to disengage the studs 

its get under and undo the two bolts   mounting to support plate 

jack the geabox as high as possible  watch for rad hose stretch and fan fouls radiator.

to get more access drop the prop from the diff  and remove rearwards to  get wrench access if needed 

the coupling should pop off on an OD quite easily 

make sure you get a good purchase on the seal and lever it out , refit /tap it in keeping it flush 

put some grease on the seal lip and coupling when refitting 

Pete

Many thanks for the advice Pete 
Hopefully raising the gearbox, will give me enough access to avoid having to disconnect the prop from the diff...

[J type overdrive output shaft oil leak]

1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

The gearbox / engine unit is held to the chassis by two mounts at the rear of the gearbox and the main engine mounts on either side of the block. If you undo the rear mounts, and slacken off the engine mounting bolts to give a degree of movement, you can jack or lever the rear of the box up, without straining or twisting the engine mounts, so as to get straight access to the rear shaft nut. It's as simple as it sounds and believe me you'll have much better access. Just be careful of your fingers on the sharp edges of that tunnel - it can hurt or do a lot of damage.

Hi Colin

Many thanks for the advice. 
It looks like I’ll be a jacking up the gearbox etc. I was planning to replace the engine mounts which are showing signs of perishing so this would seem an ideal opportunity. 

[J type overdrive output shaft oil leak]

Hi 

Would really appreciate some advice.....

Have disconnected the prop shaft and moved it out of the way, as much as I can. Can just with some difficulty get the socket on, but there is no way I can then get a socket wrench on! 
Any advice as to how to manage this would be appreciated. Would shortening the socket be viable? 
A previous post made reference to undoing the rear gearbox mount and engine mount bolts.....which if need be I’d like to avoid doing but it needs must!

Thanks 

Barry

[J type overdrive output shaft oil leak]

22 hours ago, haggis said:

I just did the rear seal on my gt6 last weekend, used a price of angle iron about a foot long with two holes drilled in it and the floor rails as a stop, to get it off and torque up. Lathe cut a 24mm bit of scaffold pole and pushed it on with the flange to get it parallel in the housing and hey presto. I decided to undo the engine mounts and rear gearbox mounts and jack the gearbox up from underneath, seemed to work a treat and plenty of access, gearbox cover definitely needs to come out though and best tackled from on top as said previously. Just make sure the seal goes in flat (scaff tube helped me) 

good luck. Hag 

Hi Hag, thanks for the advice

[J type overdrive output shaft oil leak]

2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

if you want to knowa lot more about  heres a link to Buckeye triumphs geabox/overdrive how to's   its aimed aat TR but much is relevant to all others 

https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/gearbox?rq=overdrive

Pete

Thanks Pete

I saw you making reference to this site in a previous post and had already had a look. Your guidance is greatly appreciated 

Barry 

[J type overdrive output shaft oil leak]

Thanks Johny and Pete

I was planning to utilise the old bolts, holes a bar to hold the flange still.

[J type overdrive output shaft oil leak]

1 hour ago, 68vitesse said:

My spare J type overdrive output flange nut is 1⅛AF.

Regards

Paul

 

Thanks Paul

[J type overdrive output shaft oil leak]

What size socket is the output flange nut? 
Having got the overdrive working on my MKIV, whilst taking it for a test drive with the gearbox tunnel still removed, revealed a leaking oil seal as described above.

Thanks 

Barry 

[J Type overdrive wiring]

31 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

J types can have a mind of their own if the 0 rings inside the solenoid are failing or stuck

to remove the sol. you need a thin 1" af spanner  dont use grips on the body if its tight it will wreck it

the sol has 0 rings to seal its body but inside there is a small floating shuttle piston 

to get this out just remove the 10mm circlip in the end of the sol an shake the piston out it should be free and if shaken hear it rattle about 

while your in there its worth half an hour to have a look see 

Pete

Thanks for the advice Pete.....just need to source a thin 1inch spanner....

[J Type overdrive wiring]

28 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

so what was the solution we all want to know 

Pete

Hi Peter 
Colin very kindly provided a picture and explanation of how he’d wired his. So going to rewire utilising the reversing light circuit. With the current wiring set-up the solenoid on mine does click so I can only assume that this has always been the case. So now planning to clean out filters in the overdrive sump and hope that solves it. It also looks like has been a leak from the gearbox sump nut so lack of pressure/ not enough oil maybe a cause. If that doesn’t work.....back to the drawing boards

 

28 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

so what was the solution we all want to know 

Pete

 

[J Type overdrive wiring]

2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

 

this is from steves online manuals  page 2.307 

but looking at you pic  the solenoid appears on the LH side so its a J type not a D type ???

the only change is a D type (sol on the RH side ) must have a relay   the J type does not ,  but which ever the feed needs to be from a white  ignition controlled wire certainly not off the ignition ballast coil wire  the dropped voltage wont help the OD at all 

as the wiring goes up the hollow gear stick i would take a carefull lookas here it gets cooked and chafed 

try to get some silicon sheathed wire its more pliable/less chaffed and heat proofed 

Pete

Sorry for the delay in reply, thought I had.....

wire is from 12 volt side of ballast resistor. With the help of another member I have solved the issue. 
Thanks

Barry

[J Type overdrive wiring]

11 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

For the J-type, power is taken off the reversing light circuit; think of it as a loop beginning at the switch and ending at the solenoid, with two breaks - the manual switch, and the inhibitor switch. It needs both breaks completed ie gearstick in the correct position for the operating cam to depress the inhibitor switch, and the manual switch closed. That just makes one large loop into which power is fed from the reversing light circuit. I have no relay on mine.

If you look at the photo of mine, rewired in non-original light green and red due to prolonged electrical faults late last year, you can see the taped black wire from the reversing circuit coming in from the left. The green wire splits at the switch - centre of photo - which is where power gets in; the other switch terminal, here in red, goes off to the manual switch through that protective plastic sheathing. From there is comes back to the solenoid, and is then earthed. The two green wires to the right are the reversing switch. It's quite a simple circuit.

 

Hi Colin 

Thank you for your reply. So you’ve used the feed from the reversing light circuit to power the solenoid etc? 
Barry

[J Type overdrive wiring]

23 minutes ago, NonMember said:

No, your wiring isn't correct. Since a Mk4 should have a D type, which would need a solenoid as per Pete's diagram, my suspicion is that the PO who installed the J type had not the first clue about electrics and made it up (wrongly) as he went. It's possible it worked but it's not how a J type should be wired.

When you say that the green/white wire from the inhibitor "comes from the engine bay (wired into the ballast resistor)", which end of the ballast resistor? It should be either a straight green wire from the fused ignition-switched supply, or a white wire from the ignition switch via an extra fuse. The factory would have used green because there's already a green wire down there for the reverse lights (although I can't see it in your photos).

Hi 
Thanks for your reply. Please see my reply to Pete. There are some green wires and red bundled together see photo. 
thanks Barry