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mbs2013

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Posts posted by mbs2013

  1. 18 minutes ago, johny said:

    Good news but, and sorry to be a right pain, wont the new one go in just a little bit more? I can see its been difficult as space is tight but if the plug edge was a mm inside the hole it would be perfect. Could a socket that fits snuggly inside the plug be used to push it a bit further...

    I'll give it a go. I had read that one then completely forgot so went with the piece of wood. It was a very tight fit to get it in that far, thus the raggedy edges.

  2. Good news! I've finally got the plug out. It took a lot of chiseling (and a now broken chisel) but it started to give at the bottom which forced the top to come loose. It was then easy the remove. New one now in place but haven't had chance to check the seal as I've got to put the radiator back in first. Will be one for the weekend I think.

    Thank-you everyone for your advice.

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  3. Yeah the car was part restored by the previous, previous owner and then most recently stored in a gazebo I think.

    Only had a brief look at it today. Getting behind it is ok, but I can’t get anything in a position to put force behind it because of the bulkhead

  4. Yeah I've scraped the rust away. There is barely a centre left to the plug now given that fell apart but the outer rim is still in place. I'll have another try with it tomorrow and hopefully it will move. Would heating what remains make any difference?

  5. So I've tried a pry bar and chisel and all I've got is a bigger hole but the outer ring still won't budge. I can feel the block behind it so I'm a bit warey of sticking anything further behind the plug to remove it. I'm reluctant to have to take the head off at this time but it is starting to look like the only option. I did want to carefully try a mini hacksaw but it is too long to get it in and maneuvered.

  6. Hi everyone

    Wasn’t sure whether this would be one for the engine or cooling system section as it could be argued for both, but I’ve got a hole in one of the core plugs on my Mk3 Spitfire which I’m trying to replace. The engine is in-situ and it is the larger core plug at the bulkhead end of the block. I’ve tried the self-tapping screw and screwdriver through the centre options and neither will shift it and I’ve ended up with a larger hole (it was originally about 3mm)

    Aside if removing the engine for easier access, does anyone have any tips that may help? I’ve attached a photo of the plug and the hole is just under 1cm in dIameter.

    Thank-you in advance

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  7. Thank-you everyone for the help with the filter box and sorry for slow replies - the slots are in the top in the same way as the image from PeterH, so I'm more confident it is right now. Now idea about the needles in the carbs, but I was planning on overhauling them anyway, so will add new needles when I get round to it.

  8. 5 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    It should have the body number; both of mine have it as standard:

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    The reason I never progressed my 1964 1200 Estate was that when found it had no commission plate on the bulkhead, but there was a body number. I've been advised that for a fee (somewhat higher than the Certificate price) I can have the car traced via the body number and this should - hopefully - supply all of the other relevant data too.

    Brilliant. Thank-you Colin

  9. 6 minutes ago, Chris A said:

    Hi, the one I have for my Herald does give a body number. Listed as point 4 on the certificate.1989011399_Heritagecertificate.thumb.jpg.cdddd1640d06d36378699797d00513e2.jpg

    Thank-you for the speedy replies Chris and Mark. Sounds like the certificate is worth a go. Assuming this doesn't have the body number, is there any other way of finding this?

    Best wishes

    Matthew

  10. Here's a quick update. I've not had any time to make progress due to the demands of work and study, but I have been accumulating parts - as mentioned above, I now have a boot lid, and I've just acquired a set of wire wheels and an air filter box. I bought the air filter box as my fuel line is currently flapping around by the pancake filters and is getting caught each time the bonnet is opened. At the time I thought it was the right one, but I'm not sure - please can anyone advise?

    Matthew

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  11. On 31/10/2020 at 18:12, Anglefire said:

    The Heritage certificate gives you the factory spec and that detail - stuff the DVLA never records 

    Hi everyone

    I thought I'd tag onto this conversation rather than starting a new one. Do you know if the Heritage Certificate states the body number? My car came without plates due to having had new bulkhead panels by the previous, previous owner, who is unfortunately no longer with us. I have the V5 and enough other proof to suggest it is the correct car, but I am missing the body number and want to get new plates made.

    Best wishes

    Matthew

  12. On 25/10/2020 at 08:19, NonMember said:

    I went for a metal one (from Canley, I think) for my Spitfire. A very good fit and looks right from both sides.

    I'd not thought of them. I'd only looked at Rimmers and Moss for metal ones. TD Fitchett is near to me so I was going to try them, but I'll give Canley a look too. Thanks for the suggestion.

  13. 9 hours ago, PeterH said:

    I have to confess I used a glass fibre one - Honeybourne Mouldings. Looks right and fitted well.  I reasoned that it might last longer than a steel one and was considerably less money.

    Thanks Peter. I've been looking at those this weekend and was wondering what they'd be like. That's good to know.

  14. 9 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    There are people who would pay good money for a paint-job like that! Honestly!

    Is the boot lid present? They can be hard to find in good condition.

    Hi Colin.

    It was missing the front valance and boot lid. I tracked a boot lid down a couple of weeks ago that needs a bit of work, but I'm still looking for a valance. 

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