Flemming
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Posts posted by Flemming
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Right, cd's with no hanky panky.
Float's not punctured and float valves renewed during this fault analysis.
Drop down float level, 18mm, okay.
I haven't replaced Diaphragm's though, but they seem in good condition.
May I add that there was a strange syntethic smell when the incident took place. It's told that carb fire happens, creating excessive heat and a deformed carb?
Also, it happend within a minute or less.
Very strange
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Throttles working fine and as said carbs has been undertaken major overhaul including centralizing needles, which seemed to be the issue in the first place.Do check both throttles are actually opening
obscure high revs indicates one may be free and is stuck open
pete
Fuel line's working. Compression 150 psi on all six. Spark on all six wires.
Checked inlet leaks with starter spray. No leaks.
Engine won't start by it self but starts with starter spray directly sprayed into front carb.
Obviously a carb issue, but I wouldn't know where to look.
Regards, Flemming
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Thank you for the good answers. The car's still not running. I did a manifold leak test with start spray.
And I did a complete carb cleaning.
No luck.
I will check valve and the down part of the inlet manifld.
I'm glad this didn't happen in the Alp's, where I drove three years ago:-)
Regards, Flemming
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Out of the blue my vitesse 1600 lost power and stopped. Had one start with full choker on hot engine. Very high revs and a supecious synthetic smell. Ignition okay, compression okay, fuel okay. Have to had it towed to my garage. It was raining and dusk had settled on.
Suspected the diaghrams and when I lifted the top of the carbs the front one was jamed. I.e, I had to use a soft hammer to get i loose and had to use substantial force to pull it of. The piston and needle was jamed.
I replaced the piston, centralized and all, and have the piston to run alright.
Enhine wont start, no fuel through front carb - at least three dry front plugs , compared to vissible wet three rear plugs.
I checked both floath and replaced the needle valves. I blew air through visible holes, cleaned up and reassembled and fitted.
Still no fuel to the front three cylinders - dessert dry plugs.
When I blew air into tthe carb it pull up fuel fron the float chamber al right, meaning no cludging here.
How can the carb get in a state like this? Fire?
How come there's no fuel passing through the carb?
Will a sufficient big leak in the inlet manifold take all suction power out of the carb?(I did saw some unusual smokw when the engine was running for a few seconds full choked and with very high revs.)
Any comments most welcome. Thansk, Flemming
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Yes that's worth considering:-) At least to be able to drive the car to my garage some 60 miles away.
When reading your comment one more time, I get the impression that the threads are sealed from factory - to avoid coolant leak through the thread!?
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If you mean the stud which holds the rocker cover why not just reseal the thread.
Regards
Paul
Yes that's worth considering:-) At least to be able to drive the car to my garage some 60 miles away.
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It may just be the head gasket. Cheaper than a reconditioned head, but you'll know more when you've got the head off.
how will the water find it's way through the threaded stud hole; which it clearly does? Yes, the stud is the front one of the three fixing the rocker cover.
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Hello
When removing the rocker cover today to adjust valves on my Vitesse 1600, 1965, Solex model, I saw coolant running from the front stud threaded hole!!!!
Coolant was also visible on the dipstick as small drops.
I assume the head must be corroded to an extend that allows coolant to find it's way to the threaded hole.
I furthermore assume that the cure will be a new reconditioned head.
Please comment.
regards Flemming
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Hello
Is it possible to remove the 1/4 shafts for bearing/seal replacement without to have to completely remove the 1/2 shafts.
According to WSM and Haynes for that matter it isn't; but some of you guys may have experienced it other ways?
regards, Flemming
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Hello
I got my Vitesse 1600 on axle stands ready for rear hub overhaul and UJ renewal.
I did turn the ½ shafts by hand and noticed some balanced and smooth but never the less noticeable soft clicking noise from either the diff's inner parts or the inner most hub needle bearing.
My question is if there's always some noise from the diff also in an unloaded set up as described.
If so I don't have to renew bearings.
regards, Flemming
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Hello Billus99
Thank you. I will look inti it. Zusuki might be a cheaper solution.
regards, Flemming
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Hello
Last Courier featured an article about modern front seats in a Vitesse/Herald.
It was said that Suzuki Swift seats fits well.
I'm not sure which Suzuki Swift model it is. Please help me out.
regards Flemming
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Depends on where you're going on your trip I guess. Somewhere near your point of entry or exit from the country? If you look on the front page of the site you'll see the area directory, the AOs are in there.
thanks, I'll try it
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Who is he/she?
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Hello all
I'm planning a trip to England in my Vitesse, residing in Denmark, spread over the summer of 2016 & 2017.
To save transport I could really use a storage for the car from say August 2016 to May 2017.
Preferably, but not a demand, a frost free barn with minor garage facilities.
Goes without saying that I will pay a fair price for the service.
Regards, Flemming
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Hello
My Vitesse 6's brakepedal's judders when I'm braking. Disc alignement measured to be with in tolerance, rear drums checked by engaging the handbrake to be also fine. Vert link ball joints replaced.
The judder increases when speed decrases and is visible and audiable just before stop. At that point the whole front of the car is rocking. A bit like if the wheels where wobling.
Where do I start to determine the cause of this very unpleasant driving experince.
Regards, Flemming
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Hi Pete,
Thanks, I will check.
Regards Flemming
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Yesterday, bewteen two drives, it was suddenly difficult to engage 2nd & 4th.
It's like there is not enough movement left in the lever to push it the last bit to engage. The GB extension bush kit has only done 20k miles. The GB itself might have done 130k.
Where would you start to look for the cause. Could it be that the selector fork has been sliding on the rail for a while and now has reach a point where it no longer work properly? Or is the selector fork worned out?
Regards Flemming
Vitesse 1600 vs 2L, gearbox parts
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
hello
How well does 2L gearbox parts work in a 1600 MK1 gearbox. What would be the main differences.
Will syncro mesh and roller bearing(s) interact?
regards Flemming