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Rockape

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Posts posted by Rockape

  1. So, one job leads to another.
     

    Replacing driver’s side crash-bar and glove box, and found the routing of the corrugated pipe from the heater to the windscreen demister fitting to be extremely tight. And, I guess it’s the original plastic piping as it pretty much fell apart….picture of the piece that came off attached!

    but how do you get access to the heater to replace the duct tubing? Please someone tell me I don’t need to remove the dashboard ! 
     

    i could buy a 90° joint section to reconnect this piece … that might be an option too….

    504DB43A-A922-420B-8A8F-79714AD6D352.jpeg

  2. 1 hour ago, Badwolf said:

    I have the headliner rods out of my MkIV hardtop and can measure their diameter if it helps. Just have to find them.

    Thanks.. knowing the diameter might help..Although I think this is also a function of the available space in the cloth “tube” which the rod goes through. The Herald bars I have are about 4mm. 

  3. Am struggling to find any headlining bars for my ‘68 Mk3. So am thinking I might be able to make some. 
     

    has anyone done this and has a plan or specification I can use.? 
     

    failing that - does anyone have any bars they can measure and send me the details - especially rod diameter.

    looking at the Herald bars I have, they just appear to be made of mild steel rod 

    any thoughts?

    8C44F887-BDCB-4730-891C-214EFF7ECF49.jpeg

  4. 6 hours ago, DanMi said:

    what car is it spits 1-3 only had the rubber gaiter later cars also had the vinyl one on the carpets as well I cut the vinyl one off the carpet on my mk2 but totally up to you. I would make sure that all the fasteners are in place on the tunnel cover, the top one go in from the engine side, otherwise the hot air from the engine will blast into the cabin and boil your feet

    Its a Mk3. Thanks for the tip on the fittings - will take another look at it. Cutting down the ABS flange means I managed to get a good seal all the way round with the sealing strip though….

  5. Well - thats that job jobbed. Found the root cause of the right hand bush being distorted (and a pig to get out) - the “U” bracket on which the bushes sit was off square.  It was further forward on the RHS by about 8mm. 
     

    But that’s what the slots are for in the support plate I guess. Loosened the bolts, gentle tap with a rubber mallet on the “U” bracket and everything lines up nicely…..

     

    thanks for the suggestions regarding marking the prop shaft and jacking/supporting the g/box. This helped.

  6. 19 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

    you may need  to remove the support bracket which is just as much a faf 

    so give it a lift and see   its some years since i did one 

    its one of those 10minute jobs that might take an hour 

    Pete

    A faff. ? I’ll say… the bracket is on top of the chassis members as can be seen in the photo .So same issue - getting clearance for the bushing bolts - I guess a combination of removing support bracket bolts to allow lateral movement, a trolley jack under the gearbox and a lever under the UJ and I might get enough space…….

     

    sigh…..

  7. Another question on those gearbox support bushes.

     

    Bough new ones from Rimmers using original part number - they are a couple of mm longer than the ones currently fitted - would that be due to compression of the existing ones and the new ones are correctly sized. 
     

    or - is this dimension difference going to give me grief?

     

    second - I have started to unscrew the bush - and have jack under the gearbox - but it seems to me that I am going to have to raise the rear of the engine and gearbox assembly quite a lot to be able to start the thread into the casing. And as I increase load on the jack - the whole of the front of the car is starting to lift 

     

    Any advice  greatfully accepted before I do something stoopid……

     

    mark

    BD90BB9F-6F0F-40E8-A050-60A3AB0E0E03.jpeg

  8. Having removed the original cardboard  and bodged fibreglass tunnel cover, a few questions arise…

    1 - where can I get a new ABS tunnel cover

    2 - I reckon I need to replace these bushes - any snags likely doing this?

    3 - there appears to be a grease nipple on the UJ. And  there is the Clutch cylinder and speedo drive. It will be faff taking the cover off once all the carpets etc. are back for access - or is that just the way it is ?

    2931C184-9342-43D4-954C-8C99CF215C56.jpeg

    63DE71C5-AA69-40FD-AB4B-961200AF14BB.jpeg

  9. I am going to check the dimensions of the rails - there are only 4 bolts so not sure now which of the six holes on the passenger side are being used.
     

    the drivers side “looks” right - with the four bolt locations being on the raised section of the floor pan (meaning they are at the same height, and match the four green circles on the passenger side. The extraneous red circled holes may be for some long forgotten project !

     

    anyway - I think I have the main answers - they are Mk4 seats, and the rails need to be mounted on some spacers ….

  10. Thanks - should have been more clear - the seat I know is the drivers side - it’s just the mounting holes are more clear on the passenger side as I have the silent coat installed on the drivers side …

    although looking at this drivers side photo the mounting bolts are pretty obvious! Which makes me wonder why there are new/additional holes on the passenger side…

     

     

    grrrrr

    A6A64F63-0FD1-4BD8-8755-1171074082D8.jpeg

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