Paul Rees

Thanks Doug I'm the 3 registered owner, I bought it from a chap in Essex who acquired it from a deceased estate, who was going to restore it but felt it was too much work. He didn't have any details apart from V5. So only one other registered owner from new. Paul

Thanks Pete

Is there any way I can find out who the original owner of my Mk1 triumph spitfire was ?

Back on it and I think it's getting there? The B post gap is now much better I've got the sill end cap near but more fettling to be done And A post gap is at 9mm door can't go any further forward Final question, should the line from rear panel to front of sill all line up exactly?

As regards the gap at the B post the hinges are adjusted as forward as possible so can't see how I improve this?

Hi Chris I've just returned from garage and have concluded pretty much the same. I've decided to bin the steelcraft panel and start again, I'd seen Chris Fishers YouTube video it shows the bulkhead depression that allows better fitment of the sill end cap, so I need to re-work that. In moving the sill forward I've messed up the connection between the sill and the rear wing. Onward and upward !!

By means of an update - I have fettled with the sill and applied some brute force and a lot of ignorance, I have managed to get it near..... See pictures I had a big gap between the door and the A post about 10mm I couldn't see how to resolve this other than move the sill towards the door. So that's what I did Now this has left me with the consequence of not being able to place the sill cap into the sill it looks like I'm going to have surface mount it. Is this a recognised way to do this ?

Thanks jmh - as has been said earlier I can always add a strip later. Although it is frustrating that the pressing of the floor holds back 1/4 inch ? The only issue as I see it is going to be how high the plug welds are going to be on the new floor flange.

Thanks Mark I've read the thread attached, and from what I can tell, the new floor flange depth isn't correct, so my sill shouldn't fit organically. The natural position will be that the new lower A post, new sill strengthener and new B post lower sections will be below the new floor flange? Therefore the new outer sill will attach to the excess material below the floor flange?

Or should I trim differently?

I had seen this and can confirm that the sill strengthener is also wider than the inner sill and floor flange together. I'm likely going to trim the strengthener so that the drain holes In it ? sit in line with inner sill ? Rimmer's have got back to me and are contacting their supplier. Not sure how long this will take?

Some other repairs

Hi Chris Thanks for the response. I've emailed Rimmer's to raise the issue as regards curve, I don't think it's acceptable. I've test fitted the rear wing and it does line up nicely with the B post repair panel and new floor. What I am experiencing is that steelcraft panels are probably to be avoided? I have ordered an original left side sill to move forward. I have test fitted the door with rear wing in situ and door shut lines are good 4-5mm, suggests that nothing has moved significantly? I plan to disassemble the chassis parts tomorrow and refit the tub to be sure my internal bracing is working.