piran

Got one in. It looks like the thread is a bit dodgy on the other one. Wheel back on now and I can start what I was going to do over the easter break - oh wait, that's over now

Yes, new stud came with new nut and new vertical link, all from the same supplier - I've checked with them and they say everything should be UNF

I tried putting a small screwdriver through the hole for the split pin to hold it to get the nut off - I snapped the screwdriver (luckily I was wearing specs) I have managed to get the nut off by using a puller to hold the stub tight to the vertical link. I don't have any non nylocs of the right size to try, but it's needing quite a bit of force just to get the nut going (before reaching the nylon bit) I don't know whether it's the wrong thread or poorly made in terms of the new nut or the stub. I'm going to try different combinations of new/old nut/stub and see if I can work out what's going on

Unfortunately it's not, I did wedge it in and got the nyloc partly on but now it's stuck and I can't get the nut off or on further

Having broken one of my vertical links I've been ordering things and finally I think have the right parts to get it back together. However, fitting the stub axles to the vertical link is proving a bit of a challenge. The manual asy tighten up with a nyloc (various combinations of washers shown in various places) but what do you do to stop the stub just turning in the vertical link?

Got the vertical link off, still sawing the trunnion out once it's all out a quick brush up and a bit of araldite and it'll be fine.

It was a low speed corner which I scraped to a halt on! Still somewhat unsettling to be driving along and (effectively) have a wheel come off. Had hit a pothole a while before which I suspect was at least partially to blame (from what I can see at the moment it looks like a clean new break rather than an older crack but I'll be able to tell better when I get it all off. Fortunately I was not blocking the road - I was quoted some ridiculous wait time from the AA, but in the end they turned up pretty quickly and strapped it back together enough to get home. I've just ordered the first set of parts from James Paddock, will get the bits off the passenger side and see what else needs doing, then I'll do the trunnion on the drivers side and see what that's like and what needs replacing there. I saw people recommending a Wanner grease gun so I've just bought one of those from ebay.

Yes thanks, I saw that, but it is expensive and for the number of miles I do probably not worth it for me.

I think the local potholes also had something to do with it. So far I'm looking at 1 new upright, 1 bleed nipple, 1 top ball joint and two trunnion sets and a can of ep90.

I keep hearing about poorly fitting trunnions with cheap imported pieces, anyone suggest a good supplier? Any suggestions for what else I'm likely to need?

Driving home today and my wheel came off - or at least the trunnion snapped off AA man strapped it together with webbing and we limped it home but I guess it's time for a new upright. Any advice?

Funnily I've just come across the same problem with my Herald. It feel like the rubber is too big to fit the hole in the cardboard - I wonder if the new plastic/grp tunnels have a slightly bigger hole?

I'm refitting things on the herald after doing the exhaust manifold and am suffering a senior moment. There's a plate that the end of the accelerator cable gooes to. This bolts to the bottom of the inlet manifold where the stud goes through the exhaust manifold. Which order do these go in? does the plate go between the manifolds or does it go below the exhaust manifold?

I think that the kit I bought just has rubbish circlips (more like mild steel rather than spring steel of the old one) and the new spring is longer, stronger and thicker wire than the old one so just doesn't appear to quite fit.

it's almost as if the new circlips are mild steel and the old ones spring steel - there was such a huge difference putting them on.

Well the old spring is so secure that it's very reluctant to come off at all. There's no danger of accidentally getting reverse as the spring is still fine for that it's only neutral that is I think a bit looser than with the new spring, it may mean I get a bit of rattle under load but if that's the price of actually getting it so that I can use reverse then I can live with that. I think the new spring is actually too long anyway so when you push down it's fully compressed and then when you push over to get reverse it tries to compress more and can't.

Ok, so I've compared the new with the old: the new spring is much stronger and longer than the old and the new circlips just bend as you put them on. I refitted the old spring and circlip and the circlip pings nicely into place and it works perfectly (might be a bit sloppy in neutral). There's a huge difference in the circlips - the old one isn't going to come out anytime soon.

The groove doesn't look too bad. It's fine if I push it straight up and down it's only when I move it over to reverse - it looks like the spring is fully compressed and then as you move it over it tries to compress more but has nowhere to go.

Having replaced the gearbox on my herald (a saga on it's own) I though it would be a good idea to replace the springs, etc. on the gear lever. How wrong I was! I've put everything back together but when I select reverse the circlip pops out of its groove and the spring comes loose - making gear selection from then on a bit awkward. Any ideas on what I can do to get it fitting correctly, or to not pop out? Thanks

Yes, unfortunately that's not going to work, not only do I not have an engine hoist, the garage is not high enough to lift it over the car, the drive is on quite a slope so doing it outside would also be difficult. It's not too bad doing it in the car if you are careful and remember what to do - unfortunately I failed on both those criteria.

Thanks 👍 seem to be a bit like hens teeth at the moment.

Yes, exhaust manifold, fortunately I haven't broken the inlet manifold yet.

But doesn't do the manifold 😭

Tried a couple of breakers, spitbitz, quilter. No joy so far. I can see stainless manifolds but then I'd either have to mate it to the existing exhaust or go the whole hog and do a complete stainless system. If I can't get a replacement any suggestions for a good sports exhaust?

So far tried various breakers, spitbitz, quiller, ebay, with no joy so far. I've started another thread in the engine section as this isn't gearbox anymore - hopefully that's done!