Mack

The studs are dry ( and new). It has a scale of lbft on one side and Nm on the other. It's quite a tricky scale to read regardless!

Head back on today having cleaned up the surfaces and checked the valves. Didn't go that well, which seems to be the theme with this task so far 🤣 One of the head nuts went as I was torquing them up. I have been reassured by Canley's that these are the correct Grade 5 nuts so I can only assume that my torque wrench is off. I had it set to just over 65 lb/ft as the manual states between 65 and 70. The washers supplied also seemed to deform a lot. A colleague at work has a very good torque wrench so I will try again with that when the new nut and washers arrive.

I dont have a recessed block but I ordered a gasket from Canley's having read your post. The one that arrived is from Payen so let's hope the flat ones fit better!

Success! Head is finally off. I had to remove most of the studs but most came out ok with the double nut method. I had to use an extractor like the one Pete mentioned to get the last to hold outs. Then wedged a piece of 2x4 between the lip of the head and the floor and gently lowered the car down and it lifted slightly. Thanks for all the help on this and my previous thread. Now to order some more studs and get the blighter back on!

Thanks Johny, good idea. I'll give that a try! And thanks for the refitting tips Nigel.

Thanks for the replies. I have previously ordered some head nuts and washers from Canleys so will just get some studs from them aswell. I will persevere with getting the head off without damaging them first though. I'm giving them a tap when I spray on the plus gas as I understand that helps the lubrication get down the threads.

I'm not sure how many miles it's been since the rebuild to be honest, it was about 10 years ago as far as I know. I'm struggling to get the studs out with the double method so might resort to a stud extractor, which probably won't the studs in the best condition. I'll be giving them a good dose of plus gas each evening and hopefully have more luck getting them out this weekend.

Hello all, My cylinder head is not wanting to come off so am going to remove the studs to help it along. I have read that the ARP studs are good but can be a bit short. Has anyone had any experience fitting them? I cant seem to find detailed specs. Failing that would ordering from Canleys be a good bet for standard ones? Cheers,

Well it's not exactly going smoothly. Head seems to be well and truly stuck. I have tried the double nut method to remove the studs but so far no luck, even the inner studs dont want to budge. I have ordered an impact driver and 3 jaw stud extractor so hopefully will have more luck with them!

Currently without a starter motor so might have to check the compression after the fact. The engine was rebuilt about 10k miles ago ( by the PO so I'm not 100% sure when) so hopefully the valves are OK!

That doesn't sound fun! Gaskets have arrived, as well as some new head nuts and washers. Any tips for a first timer?

Thanks for the replies. I have ordered a non recessed gasket and will hope for the best.

Thanks for the replies. sorry i had a typo in my first post. My car is a 1971, engine number KE449HE. I couldn't see a tab sticking out the back of the block. Can I assume it is non recessed? Mack

Evening all, A seemingly spiralling set of events has led me to wanting to change the cylinder head gasket. I am unsure of it's condition but I needed to remove an exhaust stud by welding a nut on and even though I covered the ports I want to make sure no spatter got in them. That and taking the 6-3-1 manifold off has been such I pig I don't relish doing it again any time soon. So with the Easter weekend coming up I thought I would have a bash at it then. My question is whether there is a way to know which gasket I need (recessed or not) without taking the head off first? Just so I can get the parts ordered before then. Car is a 72 GT6 mk3. Many thanks Mack

All the instruments are out now so will try and use this one. I have realised things are going to be complicated as the PO also fitted a late spitfire steering column so the indicator wiring is different. Should be interesting!