[ARP cylinder head studs for GT6 ( or regular ones from Canleys)]

The studs are dry ( and new). It has a scale of lbft on one side and Nm on the other. It's quite a tricky scale to read regardless!

[ARP cylinder head studs for GT6 ( or regular ones from Canleys)]

 Head back on today having cleaned up the surfaces and checked the valves. Didn't go that well, which seems to be the theme with this task so far 🤣

One of the head nuts went as I was torquing them up. I have been reassured by Canley's that these are the correct Grade 5 nuts so I can only assume that my torque wrench is off. I had it set to just over 65 lb/ft as the manual states between 65 and 70. The washers supplied also seemed to deform a lot. A colleague at work has a very good torque wrench so I will try again with that when the new nut and washers arrive.

[ARP cylinder head studs for GT6 ( or regular ones from Canleys)]

I dont have a recessed block but I ordered a gasket from Canley's having read your post. The one that arrived is from Payen so let's hope the flat ones fit better!

[ARP cylinder head studs for GT6 ( or regular ones from Canleys)]

Success! Head is finally off.

I had to remove most of the studs but most came out ok with the double nut method. I had to use an extractor like the one Pete mentioned to get the last to hold outs.

Then wedged a piece of 2x4 between the lip of the head and the floor and gently lowered the car down and it lifted slightly.  Thanks for all the help on this and my previous thread.

Now to order some more studs and get the blighter back on!

[ARP cylinder head studs for GT6 ( or regular ones from Canleys)]

Thanks Johny, good idea. I'll give that a try!

And thanks for the refitting tips Nigel.

[ARP cylinder head studs for GT6 ( or regular ones from Canleys)]

Thanks for the replies. I have previously ordered some head nuts and washers from Canleys so will just get some studs from them aswell. I will persevere with getting the head off without damaging them first though. I'm giving them a tap when I spray on the plus gas as I understand that helps the lubrication get down the threads.

[ARP cylinder head studs for GT6 ( or regular ones from Canleys)]

I'm not sure how many miles it's been since the rebuild to be honest, it was about 10 years ago as far as I know. I'm struggling to get the studs out with the double method so might resort to a stud extractor, which probably won't the studs in the best condition. I'll be giving them a good dose of plus gas each evening and hopefully have more luck getting them out this weekend.

[ARP cylinder head studs for GT6 ( or regular ones from Canleys)]

Hello all,

My cylinder head is not wanting to come off so am going to remove the studs to help it along. I have read that the ARP studs are good but can be a bit short. Has anyone had any experience fitting them? I cant seem to find detailed specs. 

Failing that would ordering from Canleys be a good bet for standard ones?

 

Cheers,

 

[cylinder head gasket id]

Well it's not exactly going smoothly. Head seems to be well and truly stuck.

I have tried the double nut method to remove the studs but so far no luck, even the inner studs dont want to budge. I have ordered an impact driver and 3 jaw stud extractor so hopefully will have more luck with them!

 

[cylinder head gasket id]

Currently without a starter motor so might have to check the compression after the fact. The engine was rebuilt about 10k miles ago ( by the PO so I'm not 100% sure when) so hopefully the valves are OK!

[cylinder head gasket id]

That doesn't sound fun!

Gaskets have arrived, as well as some new head nuts and washers. Any tips for a first timer?

[cylinder head gasket id]

Thanks for the replies. I have ordered a non recessed gasket and will hope for the best.

[cylinder head gasket id]

Thanks for the replies. sorry i had a typo in my first post. My car is a 1971, engine number KE449HE. I couldn't see a tab sticking out the back of the block. Can I assume it is non recessed?

Mack

[cylinder head gasket id]

Evening all, 

 

A seemingly spiralling  set of events has led me to wanting to change the cylinder head gasket.  I am unsure of it's condition but I needed to remove an exhaust stud  by welding a nut on and even though I covered the ports I want to make sure no spatter got in them. That and taking the 6-3-1 manifold off has been such I pig I don't relish doing it again any time soon.

 

So with the Easter weekend coming up I thought I would have a bash at it then. My question is whether there is a way to know which gasket I need (recessed or not) without taking the head off first? Just so I can get the parts ordered before then. Car is a 72 GT6 mk3.

 

Many thanks

 

Mack

[Hazard Switch on GT6 mk3]

All the instruments are out now so will try and use this one. I have realised things are going to be complicated as the PO also fitted a late spitfire steering column so the indicator wiring is different. Should be interesting!

[Hazard Switch on GT6 mk3]

Ok great thanks Chris. It looks like I do have the correct switch then as the terminals seem to tally with the diagram.

Looks like the dash will have to come out!

 

[Hazard Switch on GT6 mk3]

Ah that might explain it! Thanks Doug, I will find one of those and get it ordered.

[Hazard Switch on GT6 mk3]

Happy Sunday to all,

I guess this is an electrial systems question, although it is more a question about the switch. When I bought my gt6 the PO told me a new hazard switch needed fitting, which he supplied.

In the photo below is the one he supplied on the left, with the metal section of the mounting and the plastic housed switch on the right which was fitted but not connected.

I have found most of the wires for it, which all have spade connectors to fit the metal housed switch. ( and not the one that was in the car which has round connectors)

 

I cant however see how it would be mounted. Does the metal section, which the switch can be removed from, mount behind the dash? I have not see any mounting screw holes in the dash itself so before I go and pull all the intruments out, could someone explain how I fit the blighter?

 

[GT6 mk3 rough idle, occasional backfire from carb and lack of power.]

Thanks Iain, I tried the old hose stethoscope technique but couldn't find the source of the whistle. I will try the alternator but believe it is relatively new. 

 

Matt

[GT6 mk3 rough idle, occasional backfire from carb and lack of power.]

Apologies about the scale of the video 😑

[GT6 mk3 rough idle, occasional backfire from carb and lack of power.]

Update.

The adapters bolted to the manifold with some countersunk allen headed bolts and the carbs then bolted to them. I have made up new gaskets for all four connections. I have added some pics to vaguely show the manifold adaptions already present.  Unfortunely I didn't take one of the adapter plate! Also shown is the stub stack fitted.

I think getting the manifold altered properly is the way forward in the future and they definitely need balancing and the cabling sorting out. 

Having got the carbs back on it seems to have sorted out the low power issue. It will idle off the choke pretty quickly, however when going to rev it, it will then stall. This seemed to clear itself quite quickly though. After a quick test drive it seemed mostly back to ''normal''.

However there seems to be a distinct whistling sound coming from somewhere still. I presumed this to be the vacuum leak but now I am not sure, unless there is another one somewhere! 

I will try and post two videos to try and demonstrate it. It might just be my inexperience shining through and that might be normal?? 

At least it will be driveable to it's new garage and I can get properly stuck in! 

[GT6 mk3 rough idle, occasional backfire from carb and lack of power.]

Thanks for that Ian(and Iain) Looks to be a well engineered solution.  

The PO already fitted stubstacks so that's one job done already. I will definitely look into modifying the manifold further over winter, the current set up needs changing. The gasket material arrived so hopefully a new gasket will solve the problem temporarily. I will report back!

 

Matt 

[GT6 mk3 rough idle, occasional backfire from carb and lack of power.]

Thanks Ian, further details would be appreciated. That is a very neat set up you have there. 

I have seen the isolators mentioned elsewhere, is their function to isolate the carb from heat from the manifold? 

The manifold on mine has indeed been modified so I am keen to stick with the SU's, especially as the car was running well previously. I plan on getting it on a rolling road at some point when this is all sorted to get a better idea of how they can be improved. 

The heat shield seems like a great idea! 

 

Matt

[GT6 mk3 rough idle, occasional backfire from carb and lack of power.]

The aluminium section is the adapter plate. I feel it could be improved with some studs to give the correct number of mounting bolts for the SU's but for now I just plan on making sure it is sealing correctly. 

[GT6 mk3 rough idle, occasional backfire from carb and lack of power.]

Found a couple of pics on my phone. Filters removed here. I think the culprit is the adapter plate to manifold gasket.  I plan to sort out a better throttle return spring setup and feel like the adapters could be improved.