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Htiek

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Posts posted by Htiek

  2. Vitesse Mk2 Bonnet Badge

    in Parts Wanted

    Posted

    Thanks for the replies chaps.

    I've tried epoxy glue on it tonight. It is currently setting under a cunning array of old speaker magnets acting as a clamp. Hopefully it will take a hold.

    I think a new badge would look 'too new' if you know what I mean ? I'll keep an eye out for one with some miles on it!

    Cheers,

    Keith

  5. A Post P-seals?

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    Good Evening,

    The Vitesse is close to being all back together but I have come across two new parts in bags that I cannot identify. They are 630755 A-post P seals. I can find mention of them on Rimmers, Paddocks etc.websites but no real clue as to how exactly they were fitted. I don't see them listed in my parts book either. I can't say that I recall removing them during the strip down either, but that was a few years ago now.?

    Any advice gratefully received!

    Cheers,

    Keith

  7. CV Conversion Driveshaft Removal

    in Chassis, Suspension & Steering

    Posted

    Oops, premature posting, ctrl + enter does not put in a blank line!

    Richard,
    Could I impose on you to compare the length I have measured in the photo below and see if it is somewhere close to your original parts? I don't think that the 148850 will be required but it would be nice to know for sure.

    Adrian,
    It would be great to get to HQ for the Triumph fettling day but it's a wee bitty ower far doon the road as we say up here!

    Cheers,
    Keith

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  10. CV Conversion Driveshaft Removal

    in Chassis, Suspension & Steering

    Posted

    Home made spring lifter worked well. As you can see I ended up supporting it on the road wheel. Perhaps not the best way but the height was perfect.

    I ended up removing the whole vertical link after I saw the amount of shrapnel that was in there :( The spacer ring has shattered into many pieces. Looking at the driveshaft I am now wondering if the large spacer (I think it is part No. 148850 in the attached drawing) should be fitted to the driveshaft? I thought the new shafts were machined to include this spacer distance...maybe not? I don't have my old rotoflex driveshafts to compare with now unfortunately.

    It is a concern that it all seemed to go together OK with what looked like the correct amount of end-float but within 50 miles has failed dramatically. I can only assume that something loosened off allowing the shaft to wallop back and forth destroying the spacer ring.

    New wheel bearings on order, I'll hold off on ordering the spacers until I can get an accurate measurement of distance required.

    -Keith

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  15. CV Conversion Driveshaft Removal

    in Chassis, Suspension & Steering

    Posted · Edited by Htiek
    Corrected typo

    Well, my Vitesse passed its MOT with a couple of advisories: Binding front calipers and rear wheel bearing play getting excessive.

    I made a start investigating the rear wheel bearings. I had gone to some trouble fitting and shimming new bearings at the same time as converting from Rotoflex donuts to CV driveshafts, so was surprised that they were a problem. Anyhow, I pulled the nearside hub only to reveal the shattered remains of the spacer ring and some mangled shims, hopefully you can make these out in the attached photo. It looks like I must have got something fairly catastrophically wrong during assembly.

    The next step is to remove the driveshaft to find the rest of the spacer ring and probably replace the bearings. The driveshaft conversion were fitted when at the rolling chassis stage and now I am a bit baffled as to how to remove them with the body in place. I have it unbolted from the diff but can see no way to manoeuvre  it past the diff to withdraw it from the vertical link.

    Can anyone out there who has done this conversion point me in the right direction for taking a shaft out? I am hoping it is not necessary to disassemble the vertical link from the car in order to proceed but it is looking increasingly likely :(

    If anyone has any suggestions as to what is likely to have gone wrong and caused the damage, I would love to hear them too.

    Cheers,

    Keith

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  16. SU HS4 plastic floats

    in Fuel System

    Posted

    Thanks all for your replies.

    DJN you are correct. On closer inspection I can see that the float bowls are different on both carbs. The mounting to the carb body is lower down the side of the bowl on the rear carb compensating for the engine angle. The float bowl covers appear identical and both covers have the same casting number.

    As suggested by Pete and Richard, I have been in touch with Burlen and obtained a couple of 'Stay Up' floats. These arrived in Bonnie Scotland the very next day, a very impressive service. I fitted them today and set the float heights as per their instructions.

    Things look encouraging, car is running and the petrol is staying in the float chambers.... so far!

    Thanks again,

    Keith

     

  17. SU HS4 plastic floats

    in Fuel System

    Posted

    For reasons best known to the DPO my Vitesse has been fitted with, what I believe to be, the manifold and SU HS4 carbs from a 2000 saloon or similar.

    Now being at the stage of coaxing the beast back to life, I managed to get her started briefly until the rear carb dumping fuel out of the float chamber overflow stopped play.

    Tonight I whipped off the float chamber lids to clean out the needle valve assemblies. Now, up until now, I have only ever worked on one carb at a time but, as there looked to be no danger of mixing up the front and rear assemblies as their fuel pipe arrangements are different, I had both on the bench side by side.

    As you can see from the photos the float heights are significantly different front to rear.

    The front float is the one with the extra hole close to the pivot pin. Apart from this hole all the other dimensions seem to match the rear float. The needle valve and its seat also are identical which only leaves the cover castings / pivot point. As an experiment I swapped the floats over and the heights remain the same.

    So...

    Does anyone know if float height should be different front to rear?

    I could see no way of adjusting the float height on these plastic floats. Does anyone know differently?

    Is this discrepancy in float height anything to be worried about?

     

    Cheers,

    Keith

     

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  18. spitfire iv window weather strips.

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    Having just done this job last week, I can pass on what worked for me.

     

    • As Pete says, the clips are too closed up. I opened mine up by knocking them over the end of a large flat screwdriver, the taper opened them up nicely. Prying them off the screwdriver occasionally had them pinging all over the garage though!
    • I put a dollop of blu-tack in the hook portion of the tool. This held the clips quite securely and let me manoeuvre them into position. 
    • Then, as per Pete's method, make sure it is 'started' over the rubber, one hand pushing down on the seal and pull up on the tool with the other.

    Not the most pleasant of jobs but, once I had found the 'technique', it went reasonably smoothly. The inner window glass 'brush' clips are a lot easier to fit than the outer seal thankfully.

     

    Keith

  22. Bootlid not fitting

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    I've been avoiding the garage for a few weeks but have finally kicked myself into action again and had another go at the bootlid. Here is an update to this post.

     

    Bill, there may well be some tub spread involved. I temporarily hung the passenger door and it does look to protrude a bit at the bottom.

     

    I gave the boot aperture a scare with some bits of fencepost, scissors jack and a ratchet strap and the boot lid now passes between the rear wings. The panel gaps are not perfect but I feel if I strive for perfection this project will never move on :rolleyes:

     

    Many thanks to all who posted, it is really much appreciated.

     

    Cheers,

    Keith

     

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  23. Bootlid not fitting

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    Hi Darren,

    That sounds like a possibility too. I do have a scissors jack and a fencepost ready for action,  I was using it to help position the tub when re-fitting it to the chassis.

    I have attached a few pictures below of how things are now...

     

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    IMG 1075

     

    Cheers,

    Keith

  24. Bootlid not fitting

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    Hi Richard,
    Many thanks for your replies. I had not thought about the cross bars altering the shape of the boot lid, I had assembled it off the car and just bolted the cross brace in 'where it landed' as it were. I will certainly have a look at that and get some photos at the same time.

    I was on gardening duties this weekend so stayed away from the car. A wee break away from it maybe wasn't a bad thing though :unsure:

    Cheers,

    Keith

  25. Bootlid not fitting

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    Well I thought the re-assembly of my Vitesse would be the enjoyable part of the resto....

     

    As the topic title says, I completed assembly of the bootlid last night, lifted it into position only to find that it is wider than the gap between the two 'horseshoe' chrome trims on the rear wings by about 3-4mm.

    Clearly something has altered during the weldathon on the rear tub.

    I've been running through all sorts of possibilities and theories during a restless night but wonder if anybody on here has any suggestions?

    Does removing any packers from the rear outrigger body mounts have any affect on the angle of the rear wings?

    Jack and a fencepost across the boot opening?

    Angle grinder. welder and re-spray?!

     

    I'll be keeping out of the garage for a day or two until I've had a think about how to proceed... just in case the big hammer comes out! :(

    Cheers,

    Keith

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