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gt6chris

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Posts posted by gt6chris

  1. Interesting point.

    The Rotoflex upright remains fairly vertical throughout its travel whereas the swing spring pivots in an arc around the UJ at the diff end of the driveshaft.

    My theory would be that the mounting of the Rotoflex Radius arm means that it has less influence on the for/aft movement of the upright. This will keep the geometry more constant which is what Triumph were trying to do with the Rotoflex set up.

  2. Hi Keith,

     

    The radius arms on my GT6 are straight. IE the bolts are 90 degrees to the arm. I thought it was the Vitesse arms that had the angled ends as yours have. So I think you have the right parts.

     

    As for he bearing spacers and shims the spacers were available in a few different thicknesses so in theory there may have been a spacer but no shims. A spacer will always be needed and the end float needs to be set so that the whole outer driveshaft assembly can be fully tightened without preloading the bearings. There is no pre load on the rotoflex bearing set up in fact there is a very small amount of end float. I have Jigsaw CV driveshafts on my car which still use the original bearings which required shimming.

     

    Nick Jones made (Makes?) a conversion that uses modern sealed bearings in a modified upright which does away with the need for setting end float. I would like to do this sometime on mine - retain the Jigsaw drive shaft but modify the upright to take the modern bearing.

     

    I think you can get spacers and shims from:

     

    Richard Briscoe (RB Mobile Classics) he had spacers made up in all the sizes for Rotoflex hubs.

    Richard's contact details:-

    rbmobileclassics@gmail.com  07766 354449

     

    Regards

     

    Chris

  3. Hi Keith,

    Yes I just got a couple of heavy duty stainless steel washers to fill the gap. They were actually a standard metric size with a thickness of 3mm which makes sense with your dimensions. This has worked fine on my car.

    I think the M12 on this site are what I used:

    http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/A2_Washer_od3nom_M.html


    Regards

    Chris

     

    Edit - just checked now at home and those are definitely what I fitted to my car.

  4. Hi Keith,

     

    There are 2 different styles of rotoflex uprights. One has cast bosses where the lower trunnion bolt passes through and the other needs spacing washers between the link and the wishbone. My car has the less usual style which requires the spacing washers. These are not shown in any of the manuals but certainly exist and I have examples of both styles.

     

    Chris

  5. As well as the main door seal there is an additional seal that fits down the side of the windscreen and helps seal the quarter light. There should also be a seal along the sill. The channel for the sill seal is quite often omitted if the sills have been replaced.

     

    http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID008139

     

     

    If water gets in when the car is washed it seems more likely that the water is getting past the window seal and running down the inside of the door as mishmosh suggests.

     

    See also:

     

    http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1314974754/

     

    Chris

  6. I use a similar set up on my GT6 but with a D type overdrive. It has the Dolomite 20 (?) spline input shaft and matching main shaft which has the larger tip. this is built up with a GT6 gear set. My original box was made up of a variety of dubious parts and a damaged lay gear cluster so I gave it all to Mike Papworth to sort out. Out of all the boxes I have worked on over the years the biggest killer was the main shaft tip wearing out.

     

    Chris

  7. May be a typo but Derek's article has got its single and 3 rail boxes confused. He is clearly rebuilding a 3 rail box but the article suggests that it is a single rail box. The single rail has a single selector rail whereas the 3 rail has (you guessed it) 3 selector rails. As Derek says the internals of all the small Triumph boxes are quite similar (not necessarily the same) other than the early boxes with no syncro on first gear.

     

    Chris

  8. John,

     

    What are you doing? I have posted pictures without an issue on this forum. I have followed the instructions posted by Kevin, added the image to my gallery and posted without an issue. Anyone listening to you would think it's really difficult which it isn't.

     

    Chris

  9. My rotoflex GT6 has developed a rubbing noise from the rear nearside hub. Its just passed its MOT with no issues but the noise has got annoying. I have already had both drums off and checked all the drive-shafts etc and found nothing untoward.

    I decided to have another look today and noticed that the outside edge of the brake shoe had been rubbing against the side of the drum (IE not the braking surface).After a bit of investigation I noticed that the spring that holds the shoe against the backplate was not doing its job. The spring had been purchased during the restoration of the car and on comparing it with an original I found it was about half the thickness. Replacing it was a second hand original solved the problem.

    Another case of pattern parts not being fit for purpose.

     

    • Like 1
  10. Hi Roy,

     

    The neck for the cap is screwed in place. The on on mine was damaged so I had to get it out. It took some doing and I think its unlikely to come out undamaged. However they are made by CEANDESS:

     

    http://www.ceandess.co.uk/Images/CEANDESS%20FILLER%20CAPS.pdf

     

    And I got a new cap and neck directly from them. The caps are used on quite a few british bikes quite often locking but I got a new plain cap.

     

    What paint did you use to refinish your cover? It looks good.

     

    Regards

     

    Chris

  11. Hi,

     

    I fitted 12mm Land Rover studs to my GT6. they looked enormous compared to the original studs. There are a few versions some of which have a  chamfered shoulder and some not. The ones I got were chamfered so fitted without modification to the to the to the hub end of the stud. However the studs had too much plain shank so I had cut a few extra turns of thread with a die.

     

    Chris

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