gt6chris

When I fitted mine I only glued around the edges and nowhere else Chris

Hi the plastic duct just pokes through. The headlining is sandwiched between the duct and the grill. the headlining is not glued to the millboards I did take some pictures when I did my headlining. You can view these on my website under the restoration pages. Regards Chris

Getting the frame out isn't too bad but depends on how rusty it is. From memory there are two bolts which pass upwards through the scuttle into the underside of the screen frame at the outer edges, three bolts at the front of the dash top and two bolts through the frame into the roof. The two scuttle bolts may be a bit a faff to get at with the car fully assembled. You may have to remove the dash top to get at the other 3 bolts and make sure you collect all the spacers from the frame when you remove the upper 2 bolts. When I replaced the frame I was told to insert it bottom edge first but could not get it back in place so fitted it top edge first and swung the bottom into position (quite difficult not to damage any paintwork). Fitting the glass to the frame isn't too bad as the filler strip on the early cars is easy to fit. I fitted a new laminated screen to mine. Regards Chris

Yes Marcus, I even went as far as buying one from MOSS but they don't fit so it was returned. The TBs on my car are CR style but have a "conversion" spindle so that they connect to the Prestige underslung throttle mech like the CP type. They look just like the CP spindles are but quit a bit thicker than the CP items. So will have to wait for Malcolm to make some up. Chris

I have just been balancing the throttle bodies on my TR6 but had trouble getting the throttles to close properly after so doing. I removed the TBs and stripped out the spindles and butterflies so that I could clean and reset them. Whilst one was on the workbench a box fell off the shelf above landed on the spindle and bent it. Trying to carefully straighten it resulted in it snapping in two . Malcolm at Prestige doesn't won't have any of the CR to CP spindles (as fitted to my car ) in stock until next week so no drive it day for me this year I will still go to the Bicester Sunday scramble but not in the TR. Chris

When I restored my GT6 I soft soldered a 1p piece into the bottom of each trunnion. Chris

I've done a lot of these over the years and always install with a smear of Hylomar Universal Blue Gasket & Jointing Compound Sealant with 100% success. I don't think they will save a block from frost damage in all circumstances. We had an International tractor who's block cracked when frozen but all core plugs remained in place. Chris

Good luck Pete. When I did mine I had to use a 1/2" drive breaker bar with the stud extractor and even then had to use all my strength to get the suds to turn. However despite this the stud extractor just left 3 small lines in the thread of the stud without the slightest sign of slippage. In my mind the only tool to use for this job. Chris

I went through this with my GT6 some years ago and really think that the only way you will get the head off without damage (to you or the engine) is to remove the studs. I used the same extractor that Pete recommended. Once the studs were out the head came away with a few blows from a soft faced mallet. I managed to get a few (most) of the studs out with the double nut method but 3 or 4 needed the extractor and a long breaker bar to remove. I think I mentioned this on my gt6 restoration site at the time. Don't be tempted to try and wedge anything (screwdriver, chisel etc.)between the block and the head this will only end in tears. I am also a freeing oil sceptic but have soaked assemblies in diesel on occasion to try and release rusted parts. Chris

Looks great Jim. I found fitting the headlining a particularly satisfying job. Makes such a huge difference to the car. Chris

Did mine myself and although time consuming wasn't too bad. See http://www.gtsix.co.uk/restoration.html Chris

Just been through the same thing with my TR6. It was reading hot and on the motorway got even hotter. I suspected a silted up rad. Having replaced the rad I took it for a run with out the thermostat fitted and as expected it ran cool, the temp gauge only getting just above the cold section. I refitted the correct 82 degree stat and it was reading 3/4 up the gauge ie hot. I now decided to get scientific and set up the temp transducer in a pan as per Johns instructions (I was home alone so in the comfort of the kitchen). I plotted a graph of the resistance against temp. I then purchased a 1Kohm linear potentiometer from Maplin and set it to match the various temperatures taken from my graph in place of the original sender so that I could see what the gauge read. Everything seemed to tie up, around 85 degrees was 145 ohms on the transducer and gave a mid point reading on the gauge. Once reassembled and test driven the temp gauge remained pretty much central (this was with a new sender that I had used to plot the graph). I will swap the original voltage stabilizer for a solid state device as they seem more reliable and you can easily check the output voltage as it is stable rather than an average that you see on the mechanical type. Graph of temp/resistance

see http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/relays.jpg for close up. Or here http://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?8,896280 LHD spitfire but the same mounting position. Chris

On My mk2 gt6 the horn relay and the Overdrive relay were bolted back to back on a bracket on the bulkhead just to one side of the battery. http://www.gtsix.co.uk/images/rest/finished/FIN_11.jpg you can just see the relays under the flasher unit on this link to my website. Regards Chris

It does sound like tbe camshaft is not turning. Take the rocker cover off or look throuhg the oil fillerand see if any of the valves are opening and closing when the engine is cranked. If not the timinh chain or gears are not turning the cam or the cam has snapped. Not personally seen this happen before. Chris

Pete is talking about he front crank pulley which on a six pot is actually made of two steel pieces bonded together with a rubber insert. This is because it is the harmonic damper for the crank. It has been known for the outer part of the pulley to rotate in relation the centre meaning that the timing marks are no longer the correct place. http://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?8,866522,866905#msg-866905 Chris

One of the nicer blade fuse boxes out here is this one supplied by Autosparks: http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1273 I think John has used these with great success also. It allows you to easily split the circuits into several smaller circuits and fuse accordingly. I used this on my GT6. I retained the original loom but stripped it back and added bits where needed. I added relays for the headlights, electric fan (never fitted but the wiring is there if needed) and front driving lights. These were fed from a secondary fuse box so that all the switch gear was low current only. I have since sold my GT6 and have just purchased TR6. The headlights are the same type as my GT6 had but because they are still fed from the original switchgear they are pretty poor compared with the relay fed units on my old car. I have also noticed the Kenlowe fan is directly attached to the wiring without a relay and the crimped connectors are discoloured from heat. The PI fuel pump draws around 10a and is directly fed from the ignition switch. I used a proper crimp tool and soldered the joints after crimping on the GT6. I will modify high power circuits with relays on this car too. Chris