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Tim Bell

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Everything posted by Tim Bell

  1. A buddy of mine who lives round the corner is putting a TR250 back together, but it lacks a lot of interior stuff, like door cards and wheel arch covers. I know there's always places like EBay, but he asked me if I could recommend any suppliers, so I thought I'd put something on the forum to see if I could gain any thoughts to pass on? Thanks for any assistance.
  2. Thanks Pete. No don't have electric fan on Herald, though have one on GT6. Always hoped there'd be enough air space on a Herald to get away with mechanical fan only. Twin SUs on early Heralds, I think have one air filter for both carbs. Will look to see if a more conventional air filter and box might work better (if, indeed, available). I'll have to research what you call 'rubber silver' as this is new to me. Will consider new spark plugs and check out where to get fuel with less ethanol in it (think I've read something about this before). Again, thanks for your thoughts :-).
  3. I have read the above thread with interest. I have a 1961 Herald convertible fitted with a 1147 engine. It’s been running fine of late, but on the last couple of outings, it’s been running a bit lumpy (i.e. when you rev it, even from cold, it runs like it’s about to backfire, but it doesn’t backfire. What could be causing this? I’ve known dirt in the fuel to get into the carbs and cause this but tank not running on empty. Also had the condenser go on a Spitfire once. This caused a backfire but this happened quickly and wasn’t preceded by ‘lumpiness’. I poor running also tends to happen when you’ve been on a run and you either stop the car for a few minutes and cut the engine or if stuck in stationery traffic / kept at lights which take ages to change. This, I know, is due to heat build-up under the bonnet with no air flow and an electric fan controlled by a thermostat can help. It then usually starts off lumpy but improves as the flowing air cools things down again. So, I know this is a problem, (modern fuel evaporates more easily not helping – is this due to the ethanol content?). When on a run today. Outside temp 25 degrees but engine running, not comfortably. To try and help with reducing effects of heat generally, I’ve ordered some wrap for fuel lines from Funk Motorsport off the internet, and thinking of a fuel pump re-furb (I gather it’s better to re-furb than get an after-market replacement). Interesting re the thermal spacer that Triumph latterly fitted, comment. Took car out for a run today and made it back home, but it clearly wasn’t ‘happy’ and, of course, everything was hot under the bonnet (twin SUs have metal heat shields, but don’t think they have any real effect as they conduct heat too. My GT6 has fibre ones but these are much larger for larger HS6 carbs). Coolant levels are all OK and radiator was re-furbished not all that long ago. I will also clean the air filter on the K&N.
  4. My mate Jon reckons he can make one that looks the same as it would appear that these things may be a bit like hens teeth. Realised how useful this is yesterday when fuel started to evaporate off in the heat ?
  5. Casting around to see if anyone might have one of these. Apparently (according to Bill Davies) Austin Healey Sprites also had same carbs on 948 engine.
  6. I was looking at Rimmer Bros website, but there are also a couple on Ebay. Similar price.
  7. Need to replace Head Gasket on 1147 engine which has been boiling over (not thermostat and not radiator cap). Notice there is std head gasket and then copper ones too. Copper ones are three times the price, but are they better? Have people fitted both over time and if so, which to get?
  8. There a hook protruding from the handbrake for a button to fit on somehow, but thank you for the feedback. Will see if Rimmer item can somehow be modified and look out at auto-jumbles or anyone breaking old basket case Heralds.
  9. Annoyingly, the button for my 948 Herald convertible has been lost. Are such things a standard replacement item does anyone know?
  10. The chap (Toni) who is recommissioning my 1961 convertible (now with 1147 engine) has got it close to MOT status but initially thought that the Clutch Slave cylinder was the wrong size as there was virtually no movement and he couldn't get it into gear without switching off the engine. He has since established that the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder are the correct sizes so started looking at the push rod length, saying that he thought that there was an optional push rod length or bearing spigot length or leaver arm because there was not enough travel (I had thought that there were syncromesh issues but Toni thought it to do with the above). I don't pretend to understand all of this properly, and have tried to note down what Toni has said as accurately as I can. I said I'd put something on the forum to see if this rang any bells with anyone and whether anyone could offer any suggestions or thoughts given the above. I do wonder of 1147 and otherwise some 948 components don't mix.
  11. Hi John Thanks for the offer. I'll certainly bear it in mind. I've got a 3:63 diff I think and will see about using that. Am also seeing how much a recond one would cost from Mike Papworth. Regards Tim
  12. Thanks Pete - a mate of mine thought that 3:63 would be too low.
  13. Bought a 948 convertible a while ago, but the engine was shot so have kept it for any future owner, but fitted an 1147 engine. The gearbox was also very tired, so thought to add an O/D gearbox as we'd done with 1147 Herald Estate which has worked quite well on longer runs (i.e. 60mph instead of 50 mph which helps you keep pace with modern traffic better). 948 has different chassis though so O/D box not really an option. Thinking of a longer legged Diff, but what would it cope with? 948 has 4:55 ratio diff. Obviously a 4:11 would work, but don't have one of those and hoping 3:89 (which I have) might be OK for an 1147 engine. Also have a 3:63 but think that may be too long legged for an 1147. Just wondered what thoughts others might be able to offer on the subject?
  14. Hey all. Breaking news. I emailed First Line who make Borg and Beck clutches and they replied; Hi Tim , Unfortunately we only do the six spring clutch kit at the moment HK9704, but later this year due to demand we will have the 9 spring one available. This was sent by Peter Hughes, Senior Clutch Product Engineer Tel. +44 1869 329 716 First Line Ltd, Chalker Way, Banbury, Oxfordshire, OX16 4XD, UK So, good news for anyone who might wish to access one of these as a Christmas present!
  15. Thanks Colin & Pete. The springs on the 9 spring clutch cover we have are blue and yellow rather than blue and red? What lbft do yellow springs signify (or don't they?). Jon is going to test the spring loads via a ball bearing to depress via the central disc that spreads the load onto the springs to see that they all depress evenly, if that makes sense (you can tell I'm no mechanic!).
  16. Hmm. Thanks Pete. Where can you buy springs I wonder, if at all? Came across a web site http://www.asbg.com/products/springs-overview/torsion-springs-torque-coils-clutch-springs.aspx but guess there may be other places too?
  17. Does anyone have a view as to whether there is there a way of testing the springs on the 9 spring clutch plate that we have for spring strength because logic would dictate that, if its OK we can use it with just a new clutch plate?
  18. Thanks Pete. Jon has also owned a MKIII Spitfire, so this probably came for that and has been lying around in his man cave! Does anyone have any feedback on the 6 Spring / 9 Spring re coil spring clutches and whether the 6 Spring would be up to the job?
  19. Me and my buddy Jon bought a 948 convertible. All in good order apart from the fact that the engine was shot, so we have taken it out and will keep it (Y27736HE), and replaced it with a good, early 1147 Herald unit from Bill Davies (GA126935).However, the clutch also needs replacing (it was badly worn) and we also have an assortment of gearboxes. The 948 box (G95320) drops out of first easily but otherwise seems OK, an 1147 gearbox (GA17522) that needs syncro on 2nd seeing to and also, what is believed to be a gearbox out of a 1600 Vitesse which seems to have the number FD6_3145 (the D, if that is what it is, is raised higher and then the _ is either a gap of you can't see the number / letter any more). The 1600 is the best of these and Jon was thinking he could use this (changing the bell housing because one is deeper than the other I understand....also heard mention of 'input issues?'). So, first thing is, can the 1600 box be used? I have had a look through various threads and googled re the clutch and read on a Club Triumph thread that the 948 had a '6 Spring' Coil Spring clutch and that the early 1200s and Mk1 Spitfire had a '9 Spring' Coil Spring clutch. Rimmers only sell a 6 Spring Coil Spring clutch as does a chap on Ebay, MEV Spares (Jumblemaster). Heard that Coil Spring Clutch is more durable (was used on tractors) but gear change not as smooth as diaphram type. Question was whether 6 Spring would be OK for 1147 engine (some suggestion not really strong enough?). Not sure whether the Club Shop sell 9 Spring Coil Spring Clutch kit or not as Garth is not back in until next Monday, so thought I'd 'unload' on the forum and see what advice folk may be able to offer. Believe can't change to diaphram as bolt holes are different (Canleys and James Paddock's only sell these I think). Just want to get Lizzie (for that is what she is known as!) back on the road whilst the sun still shines, so thought I'd see if anyone could offer the benefits of the accumulated wisdom on any of the above? Thanks Tim
  20. Thanks both. Will look into it and get back to you re measurements as needs be. Many thanks.
  21. I'm sure this question must have been asked before, but I think the fuel filler pipe on my Herald Estate needs replacing because, if you fill the tank up, the car reeks of pertrol for a bit. The same happened to my GT6 but they now make repsalcement pipes and this cured the problem. Thinking it's the same for a Herald Estate, but I don't think you can get fuel filler pipes any more, so wondered what solutions others have come to when the fuel filler pipe needs replacing?
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