StevieB

I need to replace my hazard light unit on my GT6 MK3. Canley Classics have supplied a unit with two terminals, but the Workshop Manual shows three connections. On closer inspection the missing connection is the one that drives the dashboard light, so I guess this is not such a big deal. So, now I need to change it. Struggling to find it though! I have a little round can, but cannot find something similar. Can anyone give me a clue as to where it might be? Cheers Steve

All good stuff gents, your comments are appreciated. Otherwise, is my procedure sound and good to follow? Steve

Looks like I might be changing the rather tired looking, but functional, front suspension lower wishbone bushes on my GT6. Now I am a bit of novice / numpty at this kind of thing, so always plan carefully. Looking at this, and then thinking about it, I think this is fairly straight-forward. This is what I think is the best way to do this; 1) Raise vehicle onto stands and remove wheels. 2) Support hub on a trolley jack. 3) Remove existing wishbone bolts, and allow wishbone to drop down (may need some persuasion) 4) Remove old bushes and replace with nice new Blue Poly bushes. 5) Refit Simples???? Or have I missed something obvious. Polite comments and suggestions welcome ;-) Steve

Aaaaaah, so the threaded fitting should come out. I kind of thought that it should. I tried (a little) to see if it would come out, I guess it is is held form behind somehow. Time for a tinker. Ta

Sorry, this follows on from this very old post... http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/44-fitting-gt6-internal-door-release/ which is also mine! (Donut!)

I have replaced the interior door handle and lock mechanism, which was quite easy, because it was broken. Now I have come to refit it I cannot see how to re-connect the door lock linkage at the lock end. It looks to me as if the linkage must connect to the handle end first, but then I have a thread at the other end. That makes me think I should have done that end first. But if I do that, then I cannot see how to connect the other end (and I have broken the plastic knob once already. See the picture below for my threaded rod quandry Can anyone enlighten me as to the obvious and easy way to do this please. Thanks Steve

Finally, finally, finally got the GT6 MOT'd today,and she sailed through. No advisories or any comments at all. Thanks to everyone who helped with my various brake related questions. The new pads (Mintex) work a treat, and are noticeably a lot better than the old ones. Pedal was a little soft, so I bled them again, now it feels a lot better. Not rock hard, but way better than on my wife's Panda! I decided to stick with DOT4, as I would not be touching the rear brakes, and the clutch is still on DOT4. All done now, and a happy chappy. Thanks again

Finally, finally, finally got the GT6 MOT'd today,and she sailed through. No advisories or any comments at all. Thanks to everyone who helped with y various brake related questions. The new pads (Mintex) work a treat, and are noticeably a lot better than the old ones. Pedal was a little soft, so I bled them again, now it feels a lot better. Not rock hard, but way better than on my wife's Panda! Thanks again

Per chance I was heading into the owners club today, and asked Garth this very question. The answer is simply that the shims for the Type 16 Calipers are just as I have. Simple steel shims, and there is no right or wrong way to fit them. Thanks again for your advice.

Pete, thanks again for your help. Pictures of the shim (both sides of the same shim) are here; http://tssc.invisionzone.com/uploads/gallery/album_11/tn_gallery_107_11_81908.jpg http://tssc.invisionzone.com/uploads/gallery/album_11/tn_gallery_107_11_127639.jpg I bought them from the Club Shop, so I kind of expect them to be right. Not only that, they look the same as the ones I took out, nothing obvious, at least not to my eye. Steve Images look a bit small when you click on the link, but I think they will be clear enough.

And therein lies the definitive answer. As you might have gathered from above I had formed an opinion in my own mind after Clive's response, based on practicality alone. The article you linked too is excellent, it could not be clearer. I shall be sticking with DOT 4, and re-commissioning the brakes tomorrow. :-) I am looking forward to some serious braking improvements, new calipers (not seized), Mintex pads, and fresh brake fluid - god knows how old the stuff I have just taken out was, but it looks rank). Thanks again Pete. Your contribution to this forum is invaluable and hugely appreciated by newbies / numpties like me. Steve

Thanks Pete for your answer. There is nothing to indicate a right and wrong way at all on the shims, so I guess I just fit them (well I have now, but not final fit. I note your point about Copper Slip, I think I will do that tomorrow when I finish the job off. Ta Steve

Thanks Clive. I was starting to err towards putting DOT 4 back in. Mostly because there will be no problems, and I don't need to rip the whole system apart. You also make a good point, DOT 4 is readily available, so in an emergency no problemo :-) I think, unless someone can sway me the other way I shall be refilling with DOT 4, and bleeding the brakes tomorrow. (Once I have got the last pad in -there is always one stubborn one isn;t there!)

I have read in a number of places about there being a marking for the direction of rotation for the brake shims to be fitted to my GT6 MK3. I have some brand new ones to fit, which I bought from the owners club. They look to be completely flat, unmarked and symmetrical. I cannot see anything to say which way round they should be fitted, apart from the obvious holes where the retaining pins go. Which means the only possiblity is that one face is supposed to go against the pad, and the other against the piston. But as I say both sides look identical!. I am probably, no definitely a bit ignorant here, as I have never done this before. So, the only thing I can think of is that this might apply when changing the pads and keeping the old shims. In which case do I need to add my own mark to the shim when fitting. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks